bullylover

As peterb said the dished side of the spacers go against the top of the conrod over the ends of the gudgeon bearings. I use a little dab of grease to hold them in while assembling the top end. When you have the standard one piece bearing it is wider than the top of the conrod so I`m assuming the 2 smaller bearing are also wider. Graham.

Have fun model 80. Over here in Australia no bearing supplier has taper roller bearings in the height you need for a Sherpa T. They are very narrow in height. The Pursang and Frontera ones are easy to get but not the Sherpa ones. Cheers Graham.

These are the kickstarts used on the Tiron. M 73. I think they might have been used on a couple of the other early Bultacos as well.

If you open the round plastic cover in the middle of the primary case you will find a 21mm or 13/16ths size nut which is locking a large flat blade screw. Back the lock nut off and adjust the screw to suit you. Just tighten until it just hits and then just back it off a fraction. Tighten it all up again and away you go. Give that a go. Graham.

It is a Pursang MK 6 175 so it looks like there were at least 430 made. Probably not many more than that though. I know the USA had a class for these but not many other countries did. Graham.

The go to setup has always been a M159 style of airbox on the later Sherpas. They are supposed to breath a lot better. A lot of folk also use a M199B style of air filter in the M199A airbox which I have heard also works well. Graham.

That sounds like either the pilot jet is still clogged or the pilot jet carby passage is clogged. I would also just check the timing as well just to rule that out. A 74 350 should be a M151. I have the same engine in my M199B. Graham.

Other things to look at are to make sure the clutch cam is clean and well greased and to make sure the pushrod is very clean and oiled. Also make sure the flat needle bearing which sits against the tophat inside the clutch has some grease on it too. Also use a Venhil cable and good levers. The standard Amal levers have a very good leverage ratio. All of those small things really do add up.

One difference between the Astros and Pursangs ( earlier ones anyway) is the Astros had a half a degree steeper steering head angle. This is why they slide better than the Pursangs.

See that adjustment screw on the top of the carby there is the second video. Use it to take out most of the slack in the cable. You still haven`t shown how much slack there is in the cable before the slide starts to move. There is only supposed to be 1 to 2mm of slack or play in the cable before the slide starts to move. Lube the cable with some WD 40 or CRC and also clean the insides of the throttle. That should remove the slow movement of the cable. Graham.

Enquire at all of the Bultaco dealers around. I`m sure the Weavers still have some and I know that Don Newells stock in Brisbane there is still quite a few there. In Motion would still have some as well. Then there is Spain. Still a lot of NOS parts there. Graham.

And on the Tirons as well. M73.

Hi trapezeartist. The outer part of the bearing you should be able to use a long round punch or just a piece of metal bar long enough to go through the frame and hit from the top and knock it out that way. There should be just enough of a lip on the inside on the steering head frame to grab. The inner one is always a real pain. The last few I`ve done I just use a cut off blade (1mm) on a 5 inch grinder and use an angle cut across the whole thing. Just try to not cut into the main shaft. You usually have to cut all of the way through it. It does look as if it is a bit past its useby date. Cheers Graham.

Thanks trapezartist. I have noticed I seem to be the only one liking or laughing at these jokes. I don`t care though! If I laugh I`ll put up a smiley face and if I smile I put up a like. Cheers Graham.

The 0 in the top of them is just a stamp. Most of that style of cap have them. You have to remove the fork caps to service them. Inside you will find an 8 mm nut holding a washer and a spring. Pull all of it off and clean everything. Poke a bit of wire into the hole where the oil is coming from and try and make sure it is clean. Sometimes they stop squirting and sometimes they don`t stop squirting. One thing you can do is just spin the fork legs so the squirt misses your eyes and the bike when the caps are screwed up tight. Don`t forget to loosen the top clamp bolts to get the caps off. They are standard. Graham.

I use 180/ 190cc in all of mine, I have a M159, M199 and a M199B that has I think M151 forks on it. The B also has Italjet Betor damper rods in it. That was to stop them topping out like crazy. I`m in Australia so I find 15 weight suits me and the conditions over here but we don`t have the cold that you do in England. I saw somewhere on here that Sammy Miller used to recommend 5 weight in winter and 15 weight in Summer which sound about right to me. Graham.

Hi again fourex. I had a look today and that jumbo is about the same as yours. The left shock moves in as it goes up. The right one does very slightly but the left one is about 15mm or so. I didn`t measure it so that is just an eye measure. Graham.

Hi Fourex. I checked that Jumbo today and the long spacer on the left side of the rear wheel was 32mm and the short one on the sprocket/ brake side is 16.5mm. I didn`t pull the wheel off to measure the inner one. I also forgot to look at the angle of the shocks to see if they angle in at the top. My M199B really does on one side so it would not surprise me if they are like that standard. A few of the Montesas are bad in that regard. I`ll try and remember to have a look tomorrow. Graham.

I wish I did. Mick bought one a little while ago. I`m waiting on him to buy some gaskets and stuff so I can put a new kickstart shaft in it. Then I might be able to get it to go. It is Darryl Martins old one, also the one that Bernie used when he did that Trials School in Sydney in the early eighties.

I can have a look tomorrow for you fourex.

In Motion also do one for a Motoplat ignition which has 2 different threads on it. These fit the Bultaco and the Italjet Motoplat ignitions. I have never tried it on a Montesa so I don`t know about them.

If they are 35mm Betors then use KTM SX 65 from 2002 to 2009 seals. These are Ariette seals with a double lip and even come with some seal grease to cut friction from new. You only need one seal a side with these. I use them in all my Bultacos and they are brilliant. Graham.

Hi Mark. Over here in Australia Panama Green from the Holden colours is a very close match. I think it was from the HQs which came out in around 1973/74. Graham.

They are around that size Cornishflyer. I have one on the bench where I keep my bikes but I won`t be back there until next week. I can`t remember if that headlight was off a M159 or a M199 but they were all the same size on the later ones anyway. Not real sure about the very early Sherpas. Someone must have one in the corner of their shed still.

Just put a new tensioner in there. In Motion have them and they are not expensive. Any high revving Bultaco engine it is best to not use a tensioner as they have a tendency to self destruct. On the slower revving bikes they smooth the switch from no revs to some revs quite a bit. Just makes them smoother.