baldilocks

When Noah was a lad I used to ride I never increased the tyre pressures. I only had one puncture in 5 attempts. wet limestone does not provide good traction so the extra PSI means your more likely to be pushing the bike than riding it, thats very tiring and ultimately I think youll be slower. ride as fast as you can WITHIN your comfort zone ie if your seeing rocks to late to avoid them on a regular basis slow down. loads of people set off too quick but dont follow them if their too quick for you, you'll see most of them again stuck or with a broken bike within an hour. Always take 1 or two seconds to compose yourself at the start of each section and see if you can spot the line. remember a good ride on observation and in by two minutes is still a finish and will be a good result. For every five you need to go five minutes faster if your going to make it up in time, you wont be able to do that ! good luck

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fair enough its your topic I just think the two threads are related

I have mentioned your posts but equally could have mentioned some others. the point of the post is this. the topic is about a 2011 bike and the exhaust appears to be rubbing on the shock. How well was this design tested before being released to the public at

no kidding jump on a scorpa or 4rt or sherco then jump on a gasser the gasser is not heavy on the front in my view, I havent ridden an evo but the gasser is noticably lighter than a rev 3 your not riding with the missus on the handlebars are you ??

no but gasgasben reckons the warranty is second to none so dont worry about it

IF the bikes were good none of the importers warranties would need to be discussed. personally I have found Gas Gas very helpful and tested their warranty successfully with more than one bike. Lampkins were great when I had a beta except I had to carry a stator and fitting kit round scotland in 2003. Good they lent them out for the week **** they needed to for a month old bike !

I did hear Beta tried with the EVO but couldnt get it to grip so went back to a carb. honda suceeded with direct injection two stroke in the early nineties that they took across the arctic but dont know if it was any good as a trials engine.

I can t beleive you two are actually racing a proper bike and not a 4rtank......

wonder what bike he'll ride in the scott then ?

To bleed the clutch its probably easier to bleed at the master cylinder. Remove tha cap, back off the adjuster so there is free play at the lever and turn the bars to full RH lock so that the cylinder is at the highest point. keep pumping the lever till there is no air appearing in the cylinder. If the rubber boot where the adjuster fits is wet you need to fit a seal kit before you start, any scorpa dealer will have one. Front pads are different on the scorpa as the disc is narrower but any scorpa dealer can supply. For the needle information ring Nigel Birkett at Birkett Motosport.

no different brands of handlebar have different internal diameters, just specify what bars you have when you order.

When a shock is re built its normal practice to fit a schraeder valve to make it easier to put the gas in. I dont know how they put gas in a new shock ?

why do you think it was the clutch slipping ? just need to know what the noise was like or symptomns ?

you could think about this angle Ive never owned a road bike but have been riding trials bikes for 32 years, I may be sh*te in a lot of peoples eyes but I'm ceratinly not new to the sport. I tried a 270 beta in 2007 with a view to buying one and it was way to quick for me, i'm 13 stone. sure buy her a 270, but only if you dont like her and you dont want to see her at trials more than once. this 270 is not the only secondhand bike in the world is it...........

Fit the crank as best you can to one crankcase and lie it on a bench, supported so that the protruding end of the crank doesnt hit the bench. You need to ensure all of the gears are spinning freely in the case before you start this. Then put the other crankcase onto the crank and gently tap with a rubber mallet, avoid gasket mating surfaces and work on opposites within 360 degrees of the crank. If there is a lot of resistance locate where it is gearbox or crank and check if somthing is not located correctly. make sure to correctly align any dowellings and dont forget to fit the centre gasket if there is one. I wouldnt advise heating the bearing as it may damage the seal on the other side.

The mid length levers as fitted to the shercos give a slightly lighter action than the full length lever as the adjuster bolt is located in a slightly different place in relation to the fixing bolt. this may give you best of both worlds, more leverage and less likely to damage.

dont sell them John you will only regret it later I lost my copy of Bernies book moving house but wish I still had it. did tarres ever do any training videos or books ? I ve read and watched loads of stuff over the years but my first world championship still eludes me. Hoping Tarres or Dougie guidance might be the missing piece of the jigsaw

modern era probably Diego Bosis before that Mick Andrews ?

the spare two go either side of the lug on the underside of the swinging arm. not sure why they are needed as from memory the inner bush for that bearing is a top hat style bush I think.

I got to know JR when he rode the JCM. I do remember him saying you had to remove the engine to change the gear lever ! I think he broke it in one trial and had to retire.

go practicing, set out a mix of hard sections, ride them till you start to tire then you'll know which are your weakest areas to work on.

Ben Because exhaust packing being correct is critical to the performance of a two stroke engine. Removing the plastic end cap only allows you to repack up to the back of the middle box which is a long way short of the whole silencer. If its repacked properly this can make a huge difference to the performace of the bike, the tricky bit though is packing it exactly the same as the manufacturer.