pauls320

If Lewisport or Birketts do not have the parts for you and ya do not wish to machine it out like Peter's good suggestion, should be no big deal lacing in a standard ball race hub like other brands use...maybe trials bike breakers in uk??

Yes, that decomposed rubber cap will make your bike run crappy and its a common part to fail. That plugged pipe is for equalizing pressure on street bikes with multiple carbs and not used in your application. Should be able to find one in a automotive parts supply store...hopefully better quality. Good luck

I concur, get a better carb with an accelerator pump on there and they will have something.....or hang a larger wiring harness on it and install efi

Judging by your photo, I would say that that oil seal is the wrong size. The seal has too large of I.D hole for the shaft size, should not have that large of a gap..the outer dust lip of the seal should even be in contact with the shift shaft. Try source a slightly smaller I.D seal, will fix your leak

Pretty straightforward job, but be careful with main pivot bolt/pin as its aluminum and threads can get damaged quite easily, may need to loosen engine mounting bolts to facilitate alignment

Try cleaning out the glue/cr*p out from between the friction pads on your plates, just like in Dans Beta clutch fix as it much improves the problem you are having on your worn plates.

The standard lever is already very short. Have you tried put bike in gear, roll back to get piston on compression and then kick..?

You mentioned that you are having trouble kick starting due to strength issues....Possibly buy a Sherco 3.2 lever which is a little longer and install, will give you a little more leverage?? Just a thought?

A question that gets asked repeatedly on here....Do your research on bikes and the pros and cons of each, and then go to some demo test days or try some bikes at events/clubs if possible, this is very best way to know. Or if you can afford it, just buy and flip until you find one that you like. Best of luck

Its your bike, you are perfectly welcome to install a seal backwards if you choose to. Good luck

Pressure is on crankcase side, tension spring side of the seal faces inboard towards conrod

I believe all 2000-2008...9? SY250 tanks are interchangable, only color/graphics differ. 2004 should bolt right onto your 2002.

I wonder if the new improved crank bearings they have gone to are the fully sealed ones like sherco/scorpa...and they can be changed without splitting the motor in half?

Thats a very good question, factory specs it to be 1800rpm. Wondering how much oil your motor is blowing out the breather, possibly rings worn out ?? Hope you get her sorted soon.

Was having a similar water pump seal problem with my sherco, would only last a couple months of minimal use. Problem solved by sourcing seals from a different oem dealer. Found that the shoddy seals looked exactly the same as the good ones but the material was crap, when removed they had zero elasticity against the brand new impeller shaft. I have found the quality seals to last many years easily on my bikes. Good luck on your fix

Looks good on your Vertigo, Sprinter. That is the Mini vipor that Lewisport sells. Mountain motorcycles here in B.C is now offering some good quality units of their own too but I think they are the slip inside the pipe style.

Barfy, I do not recommend removing the jet block...only as a last resort after finding you have a leakage problem with it. It can be a pain to seal...and Keihin do not sell the seals/gaskets individually, they tell you to buy a whole new carb . Looks like a little detonation there, air leak, jetting, fuel. how much oil in fuel...too much and it gets lean...fuel displaced by oil....Good luck

The pwk is a great carb, but problems can be had if contaminants get into the very small orifices beneath the ''never remove'' jet block (has two tamper proof screws) can often purge out from slide side and mixture adjust screw hole. Sometimes the jetblock gasket (special multi piece oring) leaks due to bad fuel damage or being dismantled too many times and not making a perfect seal any more, which causes MAJOR tuning problems. Hope you can get her sorted soon

Does this bike have the Keihin carb or Dellorto?

Try a brand new spark plug, a failing plug can cause weird running issues.....if that does not solve problems, might want to investigate crank seals condition...pressure test?

Sherco used Olle units, looks like the one that was in my 2005. older units used 22mm, newer 26mm.... Be best to check with splatshop guys to be sure or other knowledge source . Best of luck

Here is info on an operation done on a GG (obviously the SY internals are a different animal as mentioned previously) http://www.motomerlin.co.uk/blog/?p=735

Be interesting to see the set of photos of this modification... The internals of the oem muffler are such that it would be impossible to cut a window/hatch out of one side to repack the whole thing as its constructed like a big sandwich. There is no internal pipe with perforations with packing wrapped around it. Its got the exterior walls with two layers of perforated thin aluminum sheet that is stamped to have a passage for exhaust to pass down the middle with packing on both sides...and then welded together with the tail pipe bung on the end. ..one other option for you, Ya might want to look into adapting a silencer from a small mx bike that is repackable in place of the original? or one from an older GG?

The silencer was very dented in on my Sons bike, I cut it open along top and bottom seams and 2/3 across front from tail pipe. straightened out, did partial repack and tig welded back together and is much better looking & sounding. If your gonna open it up, I suggest you take the extra time and effort to open it completely and clean it out fully as the remaining sludge and oil will get hot and ''gas'' on you and can make welding up a pain.