lineaway

(I'm not that comfortable with speed, I thought a bit of competition might get me going and improve my confidence.) Entering a competition is not the `HOW` in learn to ride.

It still could be something else, but that is where I would start.

A 12 year old Pro, first thing I would do is pull off the mag cover. Grab the flywheel and move it vertically for play. Any play would suggest mains and seals. Also are the vents to the carb clear and where do the hoses route to.

Seems I remember through the rumor mill that the importer had to re-do the vin for cali bikes. Did your bike come from another state?

* GASGAS Pro Technical bulletin June 8th, 2010 Application: 2002~2009 GASGAS “Pro” model motorcycles. Subject: Clutch slave cylinder repair hints, applicable o-rings, and alternative parts availability. Information on water pump updates. Periodic maintenance and repair. GENERAL CLUTCH INFORMATION For 2002 GASGAS pro. The “clutch cover” update kit: Beginning in the 2005 model year, all Pro model hydraulic clutch systems use mineral oil. (Applicable to the 2004 Adam Raga special edition models also) A “kit” is available to convert the clutch cover~slave unit on 2002 Pro motorcycles, into the improved 2003-06 aluminum redesigned version. This kit includes all components necessary to convert from DOT4 brake fluid to Mineral oil. NOTE: THE BRAKES USE DOT 4 FLUID. NEVER INSTALL MINERAL OIL IN A BRAKE SYSTEM! The kit includes the following: One 2003~06 type aluminum clutch cover (2002 models are magnesium) all necessary o-rings gaskets, and seals. A seal kit to convert the master cylinder on the handlebar to accept the mineral oil. Contact the GASGAS dealer nearest you for more information. GASGAS part number MT280532001CR

Are you sure that is not the 200. ( It also looks like a 2003?) Hard to tell by the vid. You can tell by the vin number. Most people ran a 38 pilot on the 280. At sea level the 107 would be way lean.

Need to know what jets are currently in it and at what elevation you ride to decide which way might benefit the jetting of your bike.

Put the old fan back in. Do not over heat it. Sometimes you can push start a bad fan. Try it just to see how it runs. Or you could just buy the right one.

(The problem is at idle with throttle closed. I talked to someone about a different pilot and he said the fuel screw covered the range of several pilot jets so if the screw is not getting me any benefit this is not the problem.) That statement came from someone with NO jetting experience. So you are going to replace the top end without knowing you have the right jets! Just send me your credit card info and I can fix it! P.S. If the exhaust is plugged up it will feel lethargic.

It is MT280236162 on the primary shaft. Replace all needle bearings on the primary. Much cheaper than a complete tranny.

Ever thought about checking if the jets are correct for you location.

I fixed one with JB weld in 2002. As far as I know it is still working.

Did you notice that it is the whole cover! The upgrade fixes the problems of the early models. It is the correct fix. Maybe you should try your dealer.

Strange, but the boot is not the issue. Maybe a thick piece of plastic as a frame spacer to kick your foot out.

Richt has a great idea. Too bad the line runs through the swing arm, so you could do this with the whole system at once. I actually just had to do this with my son`s hydraulic clutch on his truck. The only way to bleed it was to remove the whole thing from the vehicle.

You said you used a clear hose, length and going up vertical is important. I use a totally different method than most. Mine usually works pretty fast. Recently I had a Beta zero that took like a week to bleed. It had sat in a barn for 18-20 years. Was a pain in my ass. But I got it with no parts used. 15-20 minutes every evening with the rear caliper hung in the air. Good luck!

Adrian and Mandy came from the same neighborhood. Same accents, good people. They cannot say Ossa worth a damn.

You must have called the importer too much! In the states, O means OoHh.

Have you tried removing the brake pedal and just use a Phillips screwdriver to get maximum movement.

You could remove the motor and put the skid plate on first. Next time leave the skid plate on.

It`s up, you need to clean the carb thoroughly.

No error, typical Gasser.

there is an upgrade kit. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/racing-parts.html or a used case on Ebay.

So is the inlet port from the reservoir clear? You might need a new m/C, but more likely have a air pocket. I prefer just bleeding from the caliper. Get the rear caliper up higher than the m/c. Just use a 3ft piece of clear hose and drape over the rear fender. Straight up from the bleed nipple. Takes patience, but helps draw the air slowly out. Good luck. P. S. also try new brake pads. Most of the time it is just worn pads.

Find a shop that has the ability to move it back. Or make your own frame jig and pull it. Almost all gassers do this, but since you have just replaced the cases I would be cautious of just forcing it back together.