lineaway

There was no manual, but everything is on this site. Oil, forks, complete video of bike overhaul. More than a manual.

Looks like you are fighting your stance a bit. You should not just fall over in the turn as you are doing. Get the outside knee out and rotate the hips more in the direction you are going. Keep at it till it comes natural. Video is a great tool.

The Sherco clutch was a light pull from the start, put the springs back in.

Trouble was, you stopped three times and got a three and never dabbed! Then the rider argued each one.

The `EDITION` was a continuation of the standard 2001 GASSER for 2002 and 2003 after the PRO model came out. Had nothing to do with 1994 to 2000models.

If you are wanting modern, look for something forgiving. The best would be a 200 Beta or maybe a 250 Sherco. They all feel good in the parking lot. But soft useable power is much easier to control and results in less points!

If you try it with out real tools, you have a good chance of messing something up. A while back a friend broke a clutch basket, just trying to change a shift shaft on a Sherco. 30 minute job which cost 4 times as it should. I`ve done loads of bikes. I learned right away that a rattle gun was the way to go. But then again I worked at a shop.

Any and all info can be found here. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html

If you have never split a motor it could be difficult. The Beta comes apart pretty easy. I would not recommend doing it if you do not have air tools. You need a flywheel puller. I would pull off the flywheel, clutch and primary gear off the crankshaft first. Then the cylinder, After that pull the engine from the frame. The parts diagram has the bearing sizes. I would recommend getting the main seals from Beta. Good luck!

I would just go ahead and replace the needle and seat (float valve). It`s ten years old and could be causing most of your problems.

370 should be dry, as in rebuilding the forks. You cannot go wrong with the level measurement.

This is the better type. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/regina-chain-half-link.html Which is a factory made link and a half requiring two master links. The half links with the cotter key can be too wide and prone to coming apart. They can be made to be used without the cotter key by making it a rivet like the other links. Usually you do not need a half link for a tooth on the counter sprocket, by being creative on a larger rear is the time it is needed. Every time I have got a left over world round bike, it was fitted with a half link. Just odd gearing.

The difference between a nine and ten is nothing to worry about. But when you cut a chain it is a link and a half.

Buy a new chain. If it was that stretched, it is junk.

Not only do the brace stabilize the knee, but after awhile you feel invincible from the waist down. Every time I ride with out them I feel very vulnerable to any kind of crash. I`ve torn both Acl`s several times, and they have kept me riding.

Have you ever rode a Gasser? Good power, good luck.

If you search the forums, one of the better cases were an old yz125. This was done when removing the oil pump.

So does he know that you should take it apart and grease it while new?

I`ve worn Cti`s for twenty years plus. Only way I could really ride hard.

Take it apart, service the bearings and make sure the stem is OK.

Jon is correct as during assembly the clutch pressure plate has to match up to the correct mark or it will not fit. It is just a notch in both. It is not symmetric as most clutch assemblies are.

Most trials bikes go years if not decades on the same piston. At the rate you are going it will never see 80.

It`s actually more unusual to see the stock one.

It routes along the left frame from the carb. It comes past the steering head from the left and crosses through the middle of the forks to the throttle tube. It is very easy for the cable to pull out and cause this on any bike. Good luck.

You do not tighten the lever mounts solid. Always leave a little play. Not much, just enough for it to move.