lineaway

Just don`t hurt my little Cota!!

Train? Like put forth effort just to ride vtntage!!

I`ve never had problems with them. Can`t go wrong with a solid plastic block. That should solve the problem!

The ones that broke usually last a long time. I would look at `what` caused them too last such a short time?

Any that were ridden hard cracked. That is the worse I`ve seen, usually it is noticed long before. I`d buy a new frame. Just changed an `09 out a year ago.

For the most part, the Fantics were best followed by SWM. The Bultaco`s and Montesa were the bike of choice of the time period. The Bul`s still have parts available and if you ride a Montesa you might want a spare. Parts are hell some times. What they are not telling you was the Jap bikes were crap in the day, handled poorly and made little power in comparison. The Japs made a ton of them because `Trials` was supposed to be the next big thing. People ride the ty`s since they made a ton of them. Go back and look at results to see what bikes won. Nothing wrong riding a Montesa they were great bikes.

Almost sounds like it was over filled.

Most of the shifting mechanism can be had by just the clutch cover.

http://www.trialscen...beta-techno-98/

No, drain oil , drain coolant. Remove kick starter, shifter, cover bolts. Replace with a beta gasket(not silicone). Reverse order together. There is a bolt on top of radiator to bleed with.

You could probably use new springs. Gasser springs wore out quite fast. Otherwise you could make spacers from plastic pipe.

Sounds like the electrics are working. (bad earth is still a possibility) Not sure on jets.(Did you actually remove the pilot and blow the circuit out?) Not sure if the needle and seat have been removed and cleaned. I finally read the first post.( the lighter was amusing, been about ten years since I saw a nice 348 tank on fire). Will not start plug wet, plug has been dry and not started, bike idled high and stalled. I would closely look at the floats. Bent, crooked, loose, bent pin, wrong pin, damaged pin hole( have seen them cracked) any evidence of sticking to the walls. Full of gas on one side. Something odd is going on. By the way the pilot jet always flows.

Do not worry about the beta forum, that is a different issue. Does the petcock actually turn off the fuel? Do you turn off the petcock when not riding? Is the carb really clean and you checked the needle and seat is clear and shuts off the fuel? Woody is correct on having a good earth. If the plug is real wet it will not spark. If you have a puddle of fuel in the crank it will always be hard to start.

You might just use a pipe wrench with some tape on the jaws. If every thing is loose(triple clamp bolts) It should only take a half turn. After that drop the fork out of the clamps. With it off the bike the nut should come off by hand. Clean it up with a file or what ever you have available. Just re-assemble hand tight. The o-ring will seat enough not too leak. The clamps will keep it tight once on the bike. I always just hand tighten the fork caps. Next time no wrench will be needed!

Sure call and be shocked at the price. I would try to get it welded.

A modern 125 or full size 80 might work. If you are dead set on twin shock, I ride a cota 200 that is easy to cope with. Starts easy, light power and handles well. Spares a a little trouble. It is a sweet bike that works much better than a ty175.

Are you hoping to compete? Trail ride or just get around. Your physical size?

I do not understand what you mean in `blocked`?

That`s sharp! Put it in the shop and find a Bul to ride!

Are you running the Aprilia carb? A stupid question that I have seen done wrong a dozen times are the vent tube hose. Just remove all to check whle running.

Sure, If you have say a 10 ton press just push it apart. But you really need a whole rod kit or you are wasting time and money. Upon assembly you have to be extremely careful to have both crank halves totally lined up before you press it together. Press until you have 18 thousandsth clearance between the rod and crank. Now you have to measure how well you did lining up the crank. Biggest thing that you need is both crank halves have to be perfectly true to each other. This is where it gets fun! You need a large brass hammer to knock the halves back to true. The crank has to be as true as possible or you cannot assemble the crankcases. Once assembled if you are good(extremely LUCKY) You start the bike and the crank could magically balance itself in it`s first few rotations. Nothing to it. Very expensive if you screw up!

I agree with the posts that include a worn out throttle tube. It can just feel terrible. And yes I have seen it so bad that you should replace the bars since the wear grooves are so deep that a good sanding will not fix. Yes you should lube the throttle cable and absolutely dry on the throttle tube. As for the spring it is a personable feel. Myself i have never cut my own, but have considered it. (I`ve had some crazy stuck throttles thru the years!) My son`s bike has a spring that has been cut. It works like a dream. (Previous owner cut the spring.) He actually brags about it! It will not make it work wrong(unless you cut too much). So take this step by step, fix your problems and also set your bike up for your personal preferences! Good luck and have fun!D

You can cut a coil or two off your slide spring to give it a light feel for no money spent. Careful not to cut too much.

The problem usually is the shaft is not all the way in the bearing. The washer sometimes holds the whole mess up. What else did you replace as I had never seen the bearing being replaced before. Did you watch the dideo on assembly? http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/43294-kickstart-problems/

It`s a five nice reply. I was thinking it was just a bushing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQ7OmoyATgU Assembly for the kickstater starts about a minute 30. Good luck.