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It is a specific measurement. And on the right side you have to pump it to get all the air out.
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If they are not leaking, just do a measurement and get the correct oil amount in there. At the same time check the spring.
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Either bike is fine. Get a 300, unless you do not ride at elevation. You will want the power for the stupid stuff. Have fun!
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Well, they did go to 3 rings in 2017.
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Supposedly that is the correct diagram, but I believe you on what you have in front of you. The wiring on these always sucked as you never had much info to go by.
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I went back and reread your whole post. The CDI does not ground, that is the kill button stop to ground.
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Sounds like you have something else grounded out. Is everything else connected or is coil etc. just hanging off the bike?
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Check all the grounds around the coil. Crappy mounting point for sure.
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First time I quit, I was sixteen yrs old. Took out my left ACL. Started again at 23 when I got out of the Navy. Had a few short periods of not riding up to my 43rd birthday, tore my right ACL. I quit for two years. I was on and off again till I was 55. Been riding almost every event since then. Still ride Expert class at the local events, will be sixty in a few weeks. Cannot imagine quitting ever, till I`m dead.
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The weak link is the frame itself. Keep on eye on it. Putting on stronger mounts, bolts and peg compounds this problem.
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I recently had more problems. So I replaced with new floats and needle and seat. Still it would stick and over flow. Finally removed the spring holder for the needle valve, and no more issue. But I have the travel limited by the tab.
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If you have to double shift it would be worth more than mentioning. I had a brand new Fantic section that would not shift to second straight out of the box. Split the cases, found nothing wrong except the blued shift fork from trying to shift. Reassembled and it was perfect. Waste of a day that was.
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They shift fine. I would start over with the clutch adjustment to an over amount of free play. And what are you using for oil?
PS. Most bikes do not have trouble shifting to second. Riders have trouble. I just rode an 80 mile two day event with 80 sections at over 11,000 ft elevation on my Beta 250. Not a single missed shift. Those were very hard single track miles. My son has no problems shifting his 2018 300 RR.
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The material is from the plastic impellor itself. Nothing foreign about it. It is it`s own shavings.
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BETA has manuals online. Beta motos and Beta usa.
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Just slide the m/c inward as she will have more leverage and room for the fingers.
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You need to grind down the push pins. The pin is the part pushing the master cylinder piston. This is the only way to get the lever closer to the bar and still have free play. On the clutch, I would first try removing two springs. The proper way is lighter springs. Mine are very light springs and the bike still hooks up fine. My clutch pull is almost non existent.
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seems like I used something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Petcock-Honda-Degree-outlet-fitting/dp/B00N1RY0AU/ref=asc_df_B00N1RY0AU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312190333361&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1507952643283573428&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030399&hvtargid=pla-570137448458&psc=1
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No. Similar designs yes. 5 speed vs 6 speed trans.
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When I first read this I was going to say B.S. But I remembered the section I scored in '13. Bou had a terrible crash in it on that Saturday, and Raga made it look easy on Sunday. Raga got the win on that Sunday. LATER I found the same double rock had been set in 2008 and Bou had always cleaned it with stopping between steps. U Tube at its best.
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How hard is it to actually have clarity to the rule. If it is to be truly no stop, then set sections to match.
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I would start with a M/C rebuild kit. Cheap, it couldn`t hurt to freshen it up. Those years were not so good for the M/C.
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It is just regular thread.
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