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Keep the Beta, find a ty 80 for him to learn on.
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Your clutch is probably out of spec, unless you just need an excuse to buy a new bike.
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Ha! I sure hit it in my last section Sunday. That 5 moved me from third to 5th. I have only replaced 1 skid plate on a Beta since 1990, and that was on a bike 3 months old. Previous owner was an up and coming Pro rider.
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The best bet would be to learn to ride proper, the sump should not be hitting.
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My bike was three months old. So everything was good.
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I had to do mine in 2002. It came apart quick. But probably took right around 4 hours. It could be done faster, but it is the perfect time to lube and clean everything properly. The rear end and the front end can come off as a complete unit. No reason to remove just the wheels etc.
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The `09 had the frame recalled, was this ever replaced? About a decade too late probably.
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My son`s 2012 frame was like butter. Luckily we just lost that bolt every 10 hours. Sure glad it was not the tab!
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Pulling in the clutch will remove some of it. Should sound pretty normal riding around.
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Beta has always had poor working rear brakes all the way back to the TR34. It must be the leverage in the brake pedal as most of the parts have been the same to other brands. I worked on a 2019 last weekend and it was better, but then I got on a TRS right away and not even close to being in the same league.
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That is the best spread of dates in years. They must have realized last years schedule just sucked, being all in June.
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From the sounds of it, I would be more concerned about the water pump and fan. Was it a full rebuild with mains, seals, and rod?
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Pinging is just jetting and/or fuel issues. All the rev 3`s ran great with a little attention. Squish was not an issue unless at high elevation.
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You obviously don`t get it. All he is saying is the human kickstand is not in anyway riding in control of your motorcycle. This is why it is so hard to explain the rules to new people. All this is Foreign to the `new` riders in the last two decades. How dare we suggest that you lousy riders get a five in every section, cuz you are not riding. Otherwise your feet would still be on the pegs!
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Probably lost in translation. Huge difference to the top of the head vs the cylinder.
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Yes, the packing should have been replaced when the seals were done.
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Too much play in the main bearings will cause the seals to leak. But while he is taking it apart I would make sure the seal is new and properly seated.
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Well if you really feel the need to do it, it`s a good time of year to waste some time. Once you do it you feel confident to fix about anything in the future. First off leave the motor completely assembled in the frame. This will give you more leverage to get everything apart. Do the flywheel and stator first. Then everything off from the clutch side. The hardest thing and this point will be primary gear on the crankshaft. Take lots of pics and be organized about it. Do not take off the top end, untill you are ready to remove the motor. Now go watch as many u tube vids as you can. Cut up an old inner tube into 4 small strips to hold the transmission togerther once you have split the motor. It really is not hard to take it apart. Remember to always have the transmission in nuetral while splitting the cases and assembling the cases. What fun you are going to have!
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Having to have it redone again is really silly. Have you ever split a motor before?
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Blame in on the indoor trials.
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I would take the m/c off the line. Bleed it, and re attach. If the master is any good it will self bleed from. there.
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Go to a 48 pilot jet. The stock main should be fine. You are killing your exhaust an early death at 40 to 1 unless you are road racing.
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Is the plug wet right away. Sounds to me like the bottom end is flooded. Happens all the time!
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That is a great picture of the effort it took to get those bikes through the old style sections. No clutch, or brake work and barely any suspension. Just body English and determination. RIP.
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