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The material is from the plastic impellor itself. Nothing foreign about it. It is it`s own shavings.
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BETA has manuals online. Beta motos and Beta usa.
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Just slide the m/c inward as she will have more leverage and room for the fingers.
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You need to grind down the push pins. The pin is the part pushing the master cylinder piston. This is the only way to get the lever closer to the bar and still have free play. On the clutch, I would first try removing two springs. The proper way is lighter springs. Mine are very light springs and the bike still hooks up fine. My clutch pull is almost non existent.
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seems like I used something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Petcock-Honda-Degree-outlet-fitting/dp/B00N1RY0AU/ref=asc_df_B00N1RY0AU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312190333361&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1507952643283573428&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030399&hvtargid=pla-570137448458&psc=1
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No. Similar designs yes. 5 speed vs 6 speed trans.
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When I first read this I was going to say B.S. But I remembered the section I scored in '13. Bou had a terrible crash in it on that Saturday, and Raga made it look easy on Sunday. Raga got the win on that Sunday. LATER I found the same double rock had been set in 2008 and Bou had always cleaned it with stopping between steps. U Tube at its best.
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How hard is it to actually have clarity to the rule. If it is to be truly no stop, then set sections to match.
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I would start with a M/C rebuild kit. Cheap, it couldn`t hurt to freshen it up. Those years were not so good for the M/C.
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It is just regular thread.
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You could go to score cards and ride in small groups. Say 2-4 riders, which score each other. Quite a good time, but takes a little longer.
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Then I would switch to Montesa.
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250`s ran good, 350`s not as well. When the rebuild was done, was the mid pipe repacked or at least burned out? I assume new main bearings with the rebuild.
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Just looking at the condition of the bike, the condenser will need to be replaced or added at the coil wire.
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Bend your knee`s you are not that tall.
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There is nothing wrong with a Rev 3 for a first bike. But that is way too much money for a 20 year old bike. Tires and all the rubber and air filter will be needing to be replaced. A lot of parts are unobtainable now. It was a pretty blue color vs some of Beta`s choices through the years. 3 grand or buy a newer bike.
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Just buy it, for 400 bucks you can`t go wrong. Parts will not be easy to find. And that was a 1992 model.
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If you do end up putting both seals in, be sure to go to the TRS USA website as Jim has a few very good video`s. There is a certain trick to the kickstarter to get the case off easily.
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Being it is the first since the case replacement, I would hit the dealer up for just the outside seal and see how long it lasts. Pay close attention to the old seal for small plastic pieces. We have not had an issue since last September, I changed shaft, seals and impellor. All under warranty and everything was shipped fast. The engine is really put together very well I would buy another.
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I would just change it again. Almost all the time it comes out the weep hole when the seals are bad. Not a bad idea to keep a spare outside seal. Which can be changed without taking the bike further apart.
By the way the above diagram is incorrect. You need to look at the 2018 RR parts book. The seals are on the outside of the gear.
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Most of the 2018`s had the front seal go. When my son`s went it was because the impeller had tightened up on the shaft and plastic debris had gotten into the seal.
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Maybe follow these old threads.
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I cannot get a close enough view. Are you sure there is not a centering mark on both the cam and lever. Seems thier was on my 200.
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