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I believe you need to be a site supporter for that added functionality.
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Before:
After:
Subtle but effective.
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I'm just glad you don't turn on the water like that at your house.
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I think I posted a guide here not too long ago on pictures.
Basically get a place that hosts (I use Photobucket) and then put a link here. Photobucket is nice because it "automatically" copied the link for you when you click on it (you have to try it to see what I mean).
The downside to Photobucket is that sometimes it seems slow to upload, but since it's free I ain't exactly complainint too loudly.
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I'm not doing a total resoration, mostly just getting it competion ready for next season. Get rid of the red frame paint and get it back to more stock looking.
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Martin, do you mind starting a new thread with your issue?
Although you may have a similar "no run" situation, the cause may be something different.
In your new thread please provide more details, such as model, carb, timing settings, spark plug type, etc.
As with Greg, provide pictures whenever possible.
I have an idea but need your details.
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Of course you don't have to move the condenser, just something that you may want to try. I'm also not using a stock Bultaco condenser, so the outside mounting is my only option.
I can't think of any reason why to use a second LT coil, other than I'm starting to suspect that the Greg likes to mess with things too much.
Either that or he subscribes to the good ol' American philosophy that "if one is good, then more is better".
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Flicker is not very friendly. Took a little bit to get the images to show up here.
I'd still like to see an overall picture of how the rest of the wiring is set up, similar to the picture I posted above.
With any old thing, parts can break. And to compound issues, "new" parts don't always work either (damaged or poorly manufactured).
Let us know if there is anything else we can do.
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The picture posted was mine (not the original posters) as an example how a picture is the best way to describe the situation.
As you clearly demonstrate, I am correct. You have found a couple possible issues simply by looking at a picture.
A desired option is to move the capacitor to under the tank. Better cooling and easier to change. The ignition system doesn't care where it's at.
If I recall the tape (it's self-sealing tape) on the coil is more for weather-proofing than wire retention. And no, it's not ideal, but I haven't had any problems there.
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Yup...doing this made me a better rider too!
whats the theory behind this then?
One theory is that the rider is always upright and the bike leans. By putting your feet to the outside of the pegs you are able to separate yourself from the bike and allow it to move freely.
At least that's what I think I was told.
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I'll definitely take one.
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Actually more than you would think. For example there is a ton of info just from this picture. How it's wired. What kind of coil is being used, etc...
So, before you chuck the bike in the bin, try a picture.
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If you really want to get this resolved quickly... post a picture of the current configuration.
A picture is worth a thousand words and by now I'm sure you are tired of typing.
Pull off the side cover and take a picture.
Then of the junction block and wires going to the coil.
More than likely someone will be able to quickly spot the issue.
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Oh dear, time to break out that two-stroke of yours.
Rough trails are not unusual for us in the the PNW. Not only can they be challenging, but there can be quite some distance between sections. Nothing like the 80 mile road trips that they seem to have in the UK, more like a couple miles of "dirt road", if we're lucky.
AHRMA usually doesn't post the results to quickly.
How about some pics?
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Over this side these are what we call Smarties.
Reason I know is because I have an unnatural fondness for them.
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Why on earth do you want to make a bike heavier? That is just complete and utter madness in my opinion. I wouldn't like a bike of the weight of an Ariel 500 falling on me from a 2ft step never mind a 6ft step.
What is your reasoning behind that suggestion?
If it wasn't apparent enough, that appeared to be utter sarcasm.
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I believe he already mentioned the previous owner couldn't get it running either.
What is so infuriating about these engines is that they are so simple that it makes no sense when they don't run.
The wiring has got me more than once. Fortunately, once everything is sorted, they tend to run just fine.
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Ah, I forgot about the special UK tanks.
You can adjust a clutch a millions time, but until you do it right, well...
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Only controversial amongst gentlemen who can remember when traps were set up near piles of fresh dinosaur dung.
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Is there blue on a Sherpa T?
Clutch dragging? Maybe readjusting.
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AMA ≠ AHMRA
An AMA card (whatever flavor) will do nothing for AHRMA results being up faster.
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Interestingly I don't really worry about my clutch pull. The only time I touch the clutch is at the beginning of a section. Never during the section.
This is because the trials that I attended, always vintage, mostly AHRMA, are "no stop" and the sections are specifically set so that you can keep rolling. Even at the slowest sections the bike can run slow enough to get through.
I'm using Yamaha pattern levers. They allow two fingers on the front brake, which is plenty and are a bit longer on the clutch side, but still enough. And they are plenty cheap, something like $10 for each side. I did have to hog out where the barrel goes, but that was easy.
Blog entry on levers
If you drop to the 11 front you will definitely go slow. Just call up Hugh's and get one. No need to search too hard.
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Compression on my M92 is pretty stout too. And I don't think it's that fresh. But it is a 350-ish, so there is a bit of piston there. My 250 is not so bad to kick and the 125 is a breeze. With that kind of logic, I'm not surprised at the 350 being a bit of effort.
If it's too much then a compression release may be handy. Either that or eat more of that NC BBQ.
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I use my compression release. Not often but occasionally. It does a wonderful job in the right situation.
Compression should be low enough already. I guess you will soon find out that there is no head gasket.
I believe there is a trials-specific throttle.
What is your rear sprocket now?
I have a re-sleeved Amal on my M49 and think it works just fine.
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