tony27

Disconnect the plug from the stator & look on the splatshop site for the resistance readings, think you'll find it in the listing for reconditioned stators

Check the number stamped on it but changing to a larger size shouldn't affect the jetting as it really only allows fuel to enter the float chamber faster to prevent fuel starvation at sustained high revs & the float valve will still work like normal just quicker if that makes sense

Inmotion on ebay so they should be able to online as well

The way I normally do it is to use a socket that will fit over the bearing on 1 side of the dogbone & the new bearing on the other side placed in a vice, pushes the old bearing out & ensures the new 1 goes in square

That looks more like a 05 or earlier shock to me, weren't the 06 shocks more like the later shocks with the bottom mount screwed to the body. Looks very similar to the original out of my Jarvis which is a Sachs apart from the gold top eye & blue spring keepers which I seem to remember being on an earlier model

When you say the vents were looped together was there a section of the hose sliced off the bottom, that is how the dellorto carbs are standard I would have said that the needle sounds like it would be set a bit rich, normally the clip will be in 1 of the middle positions

I can understand the reasoning of using a trials bike rather than an x-ride or explorer, I've done a fair amount of trail riding on my sherco with a group others that generally involves tight trails but coming back to the vehicles is similar to a lot of your video. I find that in general the lack of bulk of the bike lets you treat it like a downhill bike & you actually don't use the brakes much. Watching your video it looks like you're pretty good at not flat landing so frame breakage shouldn't be too much of a issue, I'm pretty sure that Julien DuPont uses Raga replica Gas Gas bikes which have a magnesium swingarm that is what breaks Personally I'd stay away from 4 strokes as first thing that you'll get told to do is remove the restrictors in the exhaust which will annoy your neighbours, fuel range should be okay, we normally ride for up to 8 hours & can get away with only taking 2 litres of extra fuel with us although generally the Beta riders need to take double that due to smaller tanks & they do seem to use more Depending on how much riding you do the maintenance is really air filter often, gearbox oil monthly & regrease the linkages at the same time

Fill it with coolant & squeeze the hoses a few times to force any air back to the radiator, run it for a while then recheck the level which should be above the top of the coils but below the top of the filler

Just a thought, was there a o-ring on the crankshaft behind the primary gear when you did the seals? Most aftermarket kits seem to be missing this

ACK were 1 of a number of aftermarket parts suppliers who made heads among other things for mx bikes back in the 70s, I use 1 of their intake manifolds on my CZ400It could be worth checking at boats.net to see if the head gasket for the same size dt is the same & fitting a radial head off 1 of them, I have 1 for my 250 that will go on when it goes back together

Being an 04 model chances are it still has the tape with the separate valve stem, spend the £20 & fit the newer type with moulded in stem. Those separate parts are a absolute pain to fit without something moving

That will work but that's who said they could supply a spoke set to fit my TY for 200+ pounds, you may be lucky & spokes for yours could be cheaper

Didn't consider the clutch rubbers & I replaced mine last year, it's amazing how much quieter the motor runs afterwards & is a cheap easy job to do

Common if you've used petrol containing ethanol, generally they get longer & hard to fit between the frame rails. I'm pretty sure copemech ran straight avgas for a while & his returned to size

Here's a couple of photos of my spare, never been fitted & lives in my gearbag just incase

The thought occurred to me as well, turns out he lives really close to me so I can run him through the test procedure etc & help him out if needed I haven't managed to ride any of our local trials this year as they always seem to be around nightshift & I really can't afford to take 2 days leave to do something I'm not enjoying as much as previously & Aaron is a new rider this year

Send me a pm of your address Aaron & I'll loan you a brand new 05 stator to try, I'm in palmy so you could have it in a couple of days. I have an old stator you could send over to have rewound if needed, Splatshop will do you an exchange stator if you make sure that your's arrives in good shape to be rewound

Depending on how high the tape had been set then yes you were a bit hard, the bike hadn't moved outside the tape, the tape moved into the section. If the tape had broken then a 5 is called for. To minimize this happening we generally have the tape as close to the ground as possible & as tight as possible to prevent the wind changing the section boundary as the rider is riding the section

Very much common sense, the way it reads at the moment a developer could convert a building near heathrow into apartments & get the airport shut down. A lot of roadrace & speedway circuits over here in NZ have had serious restrictions placed on their usage through new neighbours with money & aggressive lawyers complaining

I have heard of 1 of our guys who has had his cylinder ported & the head modified by Bob Grinder of B&J racing in the states & everyone who has ridden it says it's an amazing motor, pulls great & will powerstand in 4th so it is possible to improve if you know what you're doing

Thermoswitch doesn't care which way round the wires are, it's just a normal switch that happens to be heat activated When trailriding it's most of the guys I ride with have a short piece wire with terminals both ends to bypass the switch if needed, as long as the motor is turning over the fan will run

Looks to me as though the seal is tipped in the carrier & has been wearing on the bearing. Would certainly allow oil into the crankcase

Crank seal, drop the gearbox oil & see how much comes out

Conditions for the workers making the genuine stuff is no different, in a lot of cases the counterfeit stuff is made in the same factory

The collars/sleeves will be your problem, they aren't very hard standard. I made a set out of tool steel & had them nitrided at 1 stage & they lasted really well, currently in the older needle roller bearing setup I'm using a All balls/moose racing kit which has through hardened sleeves