Scorpa

From the beginning! Mate picked a 03 bike up, grabbed clutch and nothing. Slave cylinder boot was full of oil so I replaced it, bleed as per instructions on page. Also read about clutches sticking so dropped oil to clean clutch. Waterpump seal gone so milky oil. Replaced seal and stripped and cleaned plates built up with fresh oil. Fitting slave cylinder noticed clutch arm is about 20 mm from end of pin. It's got plenty of free play but doesn't seem to be on a spline or adjustable to get it closer to the slave cylinder. Only way I can get a clutch is to fit the nut on the inside of the arm and screw the adjuster right in, so doesn't look right. What am I missing folks?

His I have my sy 250 up ando running but the cables arento tidy just wondering if someone could post a picture of how they ran the cables or if there's already been a post about it could ye send a link as I can't find it. Thanks!

Hi, I have a 03 sy250 and i was wondering what special tools would i need to take apart the engine to give it a full rebuild? i have attempted it without these tools but it was impossible. any links to where i could get these tools in uk or ireland would be great thanks.

Need to give my carb a clean but not done one before Watched a few videos & read about it on this forum so I'm sure I can do it just after any tips & advice It's a 2007 model Thanks in advance

The Scorpa 125F has a very hard to get at fuel screw. Guess what, I never adjusted it. I have been looking for a long time for a fuel screw that you can adjust without tools. Jitsi has a screw for Mikuni carbs but I think it is an air screw only for twostroke carbs. In an ad for fiddy parts I saw this fuel screw for Mikuni 22 mm fourstroke carbs: http://www.workzparts.com/default.asp?c=se...&query=1695 Do you think it fits the Scorpa 125F Mikuni 20 mm carb?

Diagram required as I'm helping a friend with his project. Bike has big bore kit, ported head and flywheel lightened. Plus factory Cdi direct from Japan. Just need to finish slimmed down loom.

Just a word of warning. When I first tried to take the front axle out after 9 months of ownership it had seized in the fork slider. (The slider with no pinch bolt). I had to drill it out. Worth taking out to grease now and then. I imagine the new shercos are the same.

I have a new to me 300 Scorpa twenty 2015 - (should have bought a 250 I know and will next time) But in the mean time I would like to take the edge off it at the bottom as I am not changing till 2017 m/y, I find it its very abrupt and much harder to find the grip in the mud/slime ( mud/slime yuk ) than I did with my old rather tired 2008 290 Sherco, which Isnt suprising. I have work to do and have not ridden it the wet very much so suppose things will improve with practice but would still like to soften it. There seems to be options of Throttle tubes Low compression head flywheel weight What the best place to start ? Any advice would be appreciat…

finally got hold of a long ride tank for my 07 Scorpa (Pedro from T3moto in Toledo, Spain) & now need to change the decals to fit in with the rest of the bike looked for blue long ride stickers on line without any luck, does anyone out there know of any? alternatively I'm thinking about getting some made using the existing ones as a template again does anyone have any recommendations of who to use? didn't want to go down the paint it blue route but what are people experiances of painting plastic? thanks, Lee

Hello fellow TC'ers, I am partially posting this because i know i will forget at some point but i know how to search my own posts. The bearing for the rear shock on a 2003 SY250R is a GEH 12C. Dimentions are 12MM inner, 26 outer, 15mm width. The front wheel bearings on the scorpa and most modern TXT Pro's is 6905 2RS... If your wondering yes i am rebulding most of the machines in my inventory today. --Biff

Be careful guys if you pull the rear shock and let the swing arm drop down. There is not an awful lot of slack available in the rear hydraulic brake line, and it will pull out of the banjo fitting on the top of the rear brake master cylinder. I learned the hard way. What was worse is that the U.S. Scorpa importer tells my parts dealer says he doesn't stock that part. What's with that? It's like the same line they used on almost ten years of the SY/SR models. Went on line and found http://trialstribulations.net/and found one in their catalog. Got it ordered. Now just have to see how long it takes to get from England to the U.S.!

Hi, can anyone tell me the right pads for Scorpa TY-S125F please? And how to change the rear pads? Do I need to remove the rear wheel? Thanks very much Naz

we top off the fuel on 03 scorpa and our 06 monty both running great have to switch to reserve on scorpa after an hour of riding then shes out of fuel within 2 section you, can still see fuel in the line, looks line the carb sit higher than the tank have to go get more fuel to get back home, you can still see the fuel in the monty.

I leaned out the needle and main jet on my '08 Yamaha powered SY250r, but never messed with the pilot. I'm getting ready to some winter time maintenance and thought I'd mess with the pilot. Bike runs great, but I get some back firing occasionally while starting the bike between sections, and the bike seems to use more fuel than most of the others, so I wonder if it's running really rich with the stock #40? Looking at what's available, it seems there's a #38, and a #42, #44 and #46. Now my pea brain tells me should lean it out (I operate between 3000 and 7000 feet) and the #38 would be leaner than my stock #40, but my buddy swears it's different with pilot jets and the…

For the record, dellorto jets don't work well in a Scorpa TK carb. They fit, but are different. Wanted to jet down for 5,000 ft. Had a hard time finding TK jets. Stock main is a 140. Got ahold of a 132.5 that was supposed to be a dellorto jet. It fit, but was round instead of hex. Ran it for awhile, and watched the spark plug get blacker and blacker, then it started backfiring when I was starting it, so I pulled the carb (again) and did some testing on jet orrifices. That 132.5 has a bigger offifice than the stock 140 TK main. Don't know how they measure them, but it was way too rich. I wanted to find some TK jets, but the usual sources kept pointing me at dellor…

hi im rremoving the engine from my 03 sy250 and ive gotten as far as removing the rear swing arm bolt but it will not budge any tips? and if i use force to get it out is there anything i need to be careful of breaking or damaging?

Hi anyone know of sy250f parts in uk. i have a couple of bodywork items but would ideally like a longride kit. It's a 2008 model reg2009 TA.

Hi I own a 2007 scorpa sy 250 2 stroke. Can anybody tell me if the clutch fluid is mineral oil or dot 4/5 brake fluid? The bike has aftermarket clutch and brake fluid caps on so no information there. Thanks

So, did anyone buy one? Seems to have turned out that the new Sherco is essentially identical the 2015 Scorpa, so I can't imagine it's in any particular way bad. I had a really brief ride on a 2015 Scorpa Factory edition 300. To say I want it is an understatement, but as I say, it was a brief ride.

Hi all, After over 4 years away from the sport (& this forum!) I'm looking to get my 2004 SY250 back up to speed again. It's been covered up in the garage for the last 4 years and not ridden. Predictably it started second kick and runs fine but there are a couple of niggles I'd like to ask about sorting out. 1: Rear tyre, before I garaged it, I had the rear wheel rim tape replaced as it was leaky. The leak seems to be back so I'm hoping to put an inner tube in. Is it difficult to get the tyre on and off the rim and do I need to do anything odd to use a rear innertube on the bike? 2: Clutch, it's fine but slips a little in 5th/6th if I remember rightly. How hard ar…