Yamaha

After nearing the end of a lockdown rebuild on my ty mono I presumed replacing the tattered original seat would be as easy as clicking a button .How wrong I was .. after looking at a few options and wanting keep it original anyone have a clue what a good condition one fetches these days when they come up for sale ?

Any pointers for the supply of ty250 mono spares in the uk? thinking of buying a project so doing a bit of homework first before I get in too deep... I assuming it’ll need most areas looked at and rebuilt at some point... engine, brakes, linkages, rear mudguard/ seat. The gear lever looks to have been welded to the shaft... how easy is it to remove/replace the gear selector shaft? Thanks in advance...

I'm taking my fork tubes apart so I can send them to be rechromed as its peeling off I have got them dis assembled, I've got the damper rod out, but in the fork tube there is an aluminium bush and also what looks like a washer retained at the bottom of the fork tube. How do you get this out as obviously this cant stay in for rechroming. Thanks..

The mechanism that pushes the pushrod to disenguage the clutch plates isnt working right and drops a bit. Seems like it is not pushing the pushrod, there is no resistance against it, and it doesn’t return to neutral positions. Do I have to split the cases to get to it to repair it? Any thoughts on what it might be?

I foolishly left my TY175 standing for a few more weeks than usual - normally try and fire up every other week. It normally starts first/second kick no problem at all and always runs really well and cleanly. This time it wouldn't. It fired once but then nothing happened and I looked down and fuel was coming out of the overflow below. I'm guessing this is the float stuck? I looked online and the 'quick fix' seems to be to turn off the fuel and put compressed air in this exit overflow. Is that right? There's a small garage in our village with an airline who would do it (they are still open) but I don't want to screw it up. Nor do I massively want to strip the car…

Hi can anyone tell me if it's ok to goto a 1.60x 21 wheel instead of the standard 1.40 x 21 wheel on a 1976 ty175 kind regards Andy pooley

Hi all , just sorting bits out to reverse the dodgy monoshock conversion done to my bike. The swingarm I have to replace the home made one has lost the stand bracket. Has anyone got a good picture of a bracket please so I can fabricate a replacement....cheers

So now it looks like the crankshaft is out of tolerance for "Deflection Tolerance". Basically the crank is "spun" as the engine rebuilders like to say.. So in simpler terms, the left end of the crank is not lined up with the right end. The tolerance in the shop manual is only 0.0012" per side and I've got .005" of runout total. Does anyone have any experiance with "tapping" the crank halves back into alignment?

So with all this unwanted "time off" I decided to try and put my old TY 250A back together. I don't have a shop manual for the A, just the B model, and the B model shop manual calls for 3 special tools to re-install the crankshaft. Spacer (looks like a very large washer) P/N 90890-01016 Crank Shaft Setting Pot P/N 90890-01012 - Looks like a tube about 6" long and 1.5" diameter with a large flange at one end. Crank Shaft Setting Tool P/N 90890-01017 Looks like a special threaded rod about 6" long. All this can be seen on page 110 of the TY250B shop manual from Cycleserv publications, but I don't know if these tools will work on the A mode…

Hi just finishing full resting of a 1974 Ty250a, only part I can’t locate is a replacement speedo bracket. Can anyone kindly help with a fix or an unwanted part. thanks david

I was wondering where I could find a replacement swing arm sleeve for a 1974 ty 250 Part # 434-22124-01-00 will the sleeve from a DT work as an alternative? thanks

My 1977 TY175 (new to me) clutch engages very late and is hard to control in a section. The cable is lubed, the actuator cam is new and greased, fibre plates new with flat metal plates. Do I need to lengthen the actuator arm? What am I missing? Help is appreciated. I am looking for a smooth controllable clutch engagement as opposed to an off/on switch.

Hello all! Does any one know where i can pick up a set of new fork caps for my 1974 Yamaha TY250. They are extremely Bunged up from years of use and abuse or does any one know if another set would be compatible from another bike. Any suggestions or leads would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jon

Hello I just picked up this beautiful 1985 250 mono, however it’s got a couple of weird things about it The rear is super stiff, I do not believe it has anything to do with the shock it feels like something else, it will go down a bit but not come back up also the front caliper rocks forwards and backwards, is this normal? It’s actually unridable atm, all the linkage bearings are newish and the swing arm I believe also any ideas guys? Just paid £2000 for this bike, other than these points it is lovely Thanks

Hi Can anybody advise me where to buy a Ty80 exhaust silencer please,I’ve just got hold of a 1975 Ty 80 and the silencer is missing off the end of the box and I’m struggling to find one.Somebody has previously jammed a length of copper pipe into the exhaust and it needs a proper one sorting.Im in Uk.

Hi all just been looking at this ty250 I have , do you think this has been sleeved down???

Do TY175 forks normally have a lot of stiction, compared to a modern bike? I disassembled, cleaned inside, polished fork tubes, installed new seals/ wipers and used the recommended quantity of ATF. Pushing down on the individual tubes by hand they feel OK. However, when mounted on the bike, there is a lot of stiction and they feel stiff. I did try to align by tightening fasteners progressively with fork pumping in between. The forks have more rake than a modern bike so there is more side ways force to create stiction so maybe that is it. I used Allballs seals and they have a very tight seal to tube fit so that probably does not help.

Hi all, I've bringing another TY175 back to life and am looking for a low budget rear sprocket, steel if possible but I'll take aluminum if that's the only option.The bike has currently has a vintage "PBI 7033-49" aluminum sprocket, PBI still sells these for about $60 shipped. I just tried a JT Sprockets JTR1842-49 ($20) which is supposed to fit, the holes line up however the sprocket is milled very thin where it meets the hub so the bolts wont seat all of the in. Unless there's a aftermarket spacer or something to get I'll have to return the JT sprocket. I plan on calling JT Monday morning (they are made in USA) and asking them for details as well. Here'…

Is there anything interchangable between these ? engine covers, shock unit etc Andy

Hey guys, I’m new here and new to building this 2 stroke Yamaha. My neighbor was moving out and asked me if I was interested in his old bike, it was in pieces and missing a couple parts, but over all it looks like with some time and effort it can be back to running! Plus I’m out of projects right now so what the heck! anyways, I was in the middle of tearing down the engine to clean and rebuild, he already had the cases split and they came off with just hitting them slightly with a mallet. I’ll got the other case completely stripped except for a few bearing, but I’m stuck on taking out the primary drive gear from the crank shaft, just here to ask if there any way…