Pre-65 Bikes

Hi, Im confused.. reading at a well known classic trials dealers site..their default recommendation is 18" x 1.85" rim for e.g. Cub rear assembly. Are you satisfied with rear end trials set up: 4-5psi, 1.85" ally rim and available 4.00? (well, people did use 1.6" x 19" rear for trials and scrambler back in the days.........and agriculture vehicles did perform with none "rubbered wheels" at driven axles in an other century... ) cheers,

Happy Bank Holiday to all readers. I am in a good mood today, even after yesterday's trial, but please do not start me on that. Looking for a set of rear shocks for the BSA and I remember hearing that Mr Pickering supplies some modded Betors, does anyone have any information on them what makes the mod work and where I can get a pair?

Ok, the Otter/C15 is almost complete to the point where I can start riding it. One thing I need to do is replace the cheap NJB shocks that I've been using as 'place holders' for something a little better - I'm thinking a pair of Betors or similar. Does anyone have anything suitable knocking about? or can anybody offer any suggestions/advice as to where I can get something reasonably competative for a sensible price? Cheers UB

I am looking for a rear brake drum/sprocket for a matchless g3c it has a 5 bolt fixing and a 5.5" brake dia any ideas? i have tried the usual suppliers AMC classics,ajs owners club russell motors etc.The bike is 1961. thanks

i have a 32a villiers lump with a 4spd trials box. what is the common thought on rear sprocket size?

anyone out there know where to buy steel tubing on line ect.. trying to source some to make a rear sub frame for a triumph twin and cant seem to find anyone who sells the stuff!!drawn a complete blank..HELP

I'm recreating the bike my Dad built for me in the 60's I have a standard bantam 18 incch rear wheel currently fitted with a 3 inch road tyre my question is will this rim accept a 4 inch wide tyre or do I go for a 3.5 tyre. Swing Arm is a Triumph factory trials wide.

Do not know if this has been on here before but if so I did not see it, Is it any disadvbantage to run a tubeless type rear tyre with a tube in on a conventional rim as tube type rear tyres are not stocked by many dealers.

Hi, I've been riding twin shock since they were all there were, and more recently modern pogo sticks. I have decided that I need to get the cub I have squirreled away up and running. I know of companies such as Armac and upb, but names like Allan Witton and Max Heyes, Ray Small etc etc, keep cropping up here and there. Is there a place that I am missing? Where I can get contact details for these sort of people? Cheers Trev.

I am reconditioning my Cub Head, i have everything out of head, i need to clean the exhaust port, get rid of carbon etc. is there any sure fire method of cleaning, i.e. costic soda, or is it just petrol and elbow grease Vinnie

As above,the seat on my AJS has a big hole in the cover.No idea where it came from originally or what it was intended for,but its just the right size/shape and its comfy on the road.I just want to tidy it up a bit. So who do I go to ?

hey, basically I have a old bullet with the later twin shock Reddich frame, brought it about ten years ago as a project and thought it was a road bike as it was wearing most of that trim though once I got stuck in the frame had some differences that were causing me some headscratching, basically the differences are: *had the mount for springer seat but cut off to fit the road seat at some point *the frame never had rear footrest hangers(what originally confused me) *the original paint under the black 'respray' is olive green From that I'm assuming it was once a trials model just wondering if anyone can help shed a bit of light on this one for me as haven't managed to…

Hi, anyone know if a late 50,s 500 bullet alternator inner chaincase will fit an earlier (1953) dynano 350 bullet engine using the dynamo outer chaincase from my 350 bullet please as i am having probs getting the right one cheers Dave

I have just bought a trials modified Tiger Cub with PVL ignition. It looks like PVL has milled a slot in the casing (where the engine number was, as it's not by the front mount) and added their aluminium logo into this slot, therefore I only have the frame number to go by. Has anyone got any experience of registering a bike with an age related plate based on frame number only?

Hi All. Can anyone point me towards a good starting point for oil capacity and weight for 1960's REH forks? I'm thinking 200cc of 15W per leg. Thanks in advance David

REH forks currently seem to be the preferred choice for anyone looking to build a competitive pre 65 bike. The matching yokes are listed as having an offset of 40mm, which is a bit less than the original setup on my Bamford Matchless, and by my calculations would increase the trail from approx 4 inches to around 5 1/4 inches. Any of my background reading would suggest this would be a bit excessive. There's no doubt the REH fork movement feels terific, but I'd be interested to hear from anyone who is using the REH yokes on a pre unit bike (particularly those with more traditional frame geometry) how the reduced offset has affected the handling, if at all?

REH forks currently seem to be the preferred choice for anyone looking to build a competitive pre 65 bike. The matching yokes are listed as having an offset of 40mm, which is a bit less than the original setup on my Bamford Matchless, and by my calculations would increase the trail from approx 4 inches to around 5 1/4 inches. Any of my background reading would suggest this would be a bit excessive. There's no doubt the REH fork movement feels terific, but I'd be interested to hear from anyone who is using the REH yokes on a pre unit bike (particularly those with more traditional frame geometry) how the reduced offset has affected the handling, if at all?

Anyone recived any yet?

I'm in the process of disassembling a C15 that has been sitting for some time and is somewhat rusty. I can remove the nut from the fastener that holds the kicker on .....but even a sharp hit with a hammer will not drive it out. (the opposite end is round and looks like the end of a dowel pin) Does anyone know how to get this out? Does the fastener have some flat sides that keep it from spinning? While on the subject, the motor is also locked up. I have the head off and got the cyliner moved up about 1/16" but that is as far as it will go. The piston is not at TDC so even if it is the frozen piece, the cylinder should move farther. Are there any recommendations on…

Hi Gurus I have BSA C15 pitted forks. My friend told me to check with Industrial Hydraulic Repair company to re-chrome them . I contacted them and they said they can make new fork tube. which might be much cheaper then re-chrome. and last longer. Is it good idea to try new fork tube ? Is it possible to increase length of fork tube , Do i need to change spring or fork internal etc. I was think may be i can put some spacer on top nut and keep forks internal same ? Regards JH