Bultaco

Does anybody have any tips on freeing the crankshaft clutch sprocket and clutch drum nuts? I have the clutch holding tool but cannot free the crankshaft or clutch hub nuts with the engine on the bench (I dont have an engine stand). Should I (1) replace the cylinder, piston & head and lock the piston with a locking tool or, (2) replace the bottom half of the engine in the frame for greater leverage (3) do both. Without locking up the engine there is tendancy for the clutch holding tool to come to rest againt the gear selector shaft, which I feel needs to be avoided as I may risk damaging or breaking the shaft. My inclination is to replace cylinder, piston and head, put…

I am going to attempt the rebuilding of both wheels on my 199A with relined hubs and new stainless spokes. Can anyone help me with measurements for the offset to the rear wheel? I thought i had measured accurately but now not so sure.

has any one done any frame mods to a bultaco like alter the steering angle and foot pegs if so can any one give me some tips on how to do it

I know trying to diagnose clutch problems through a forum is difficult - but what the hey! My M199 clutch is noice and light (well compared to other bulls i have owned), but it is a problem in tight turns. When i let the clutch go, it eases out slowly to a point, then lets go in one hit at the end. This usually happens with the front wheel on lock, which in soft/loose terrain is off setting. (i hope that all makes sense?) thanks

Hi I an running out of patience with the Amal Concentric. To explain the background on my ground up rebuild my target was to get the bike original in all things. To this end I purchased a new Concentric Mk 1. It is Jetted correctly runs realy well when the engine is warm and then always starts first time. However when cold it is B**** and needs 20 - 30 kicks to get going. It tickles up with fuel over flowing so there is no fuel shortage. Sammy Miller, James @ JHS racing have told me I am wasting my time as the cold staring design is poor, and to get a Mikuni or DelOrto, well ok that may be the route. But surely Bultaco would not have put up with this problem when t…

Hello Can any one recommed what to do in order to get my sherpa t back into action, The problem is with the brakes, it does not have any!! both front and rear hub have worn through the steel inserts, I have seen hubs advertised but i have never done any wheelbuilding. i am not looking to spend loads of cash if possible, there are enough things to spend my hard earned money on as you will be well aware..the wheels and spokes are in good condition. Thanks in advance.. J

Hi, I have the rear wheel out of th bike and I have some questions about the brake hub. What is the correct internal Dia (Mine has a slight lip then is a chamfer to main braking surface, it measures 140mm on lip but I cannot get measurement beyond this as I only have a vernier not an internal Micrometer) Next what should the surface look like and is it a replacable liner or an integral part of the hub. If necessary can it be relined easily? Finally what thickness is the brake shoe when new so I can judge wether replacement is due? Cheers

Hi All, just stripped my bultaco M92 down ready for a full refurb,did'nt find any nasty's all came apart very easy,the only problem is the tank and seat unit it is in poor shape leaking and the sides are damaged. Is there anybody doing copy's ?? Regards Paul

Just picked up a bultaco,on the log book it says its a 325cc 1973 the frame no is B92016** the engine no is M92017** its got a all in one tank/seat unit in red which makes it what model ??? thanks .

Hello, Can anyone help me identify the age of this Bultaco Sherpa T 125cc. The engine No. is TM 22100128, also could anyone confirm that the frame colour should be white? Cheers Gareth

I am thinking and hopeing the answer is yes. I have a M159 1976 350 Sherpa T I am restoring. I have a line on a 1975 250 Sherpa T tank. Are they the same tank and if not are they interchangeable? Thank you in advance.

I wanted to replace the fork oil but the allen bolt that drains the oil out on both forks just spins can not loosen or tighten, I did go ahead and add some fork oil because it appeared empty and it almost immediately started to drip from the bolt. Why? and How? do I fix. I am also having a difficult time setting up the clutch pressure point using the adjustment screw and jam nut. Any tips beyond the manuals. It works but just barely difficult to engage and grabs quickly. I did have it set up so I could use the clutch lever to disengage the gear box but it then would not kick over ( did not catch) Sunny

Hi, I am continuing with rebuild of M-80 engine and would like to know types, quantities and sizes of seals required when replacing both outer casings. There is also a fibre washer to fit behind clutch arm stem on casing (missing when stripped down) is it a standard size? When I reassemble is Blue Hylomar ok instead of paper gaskets? Cheers

My 3 Bultaco's in Norway

Hi, continuing with top end rebuild of M-80, can any one help with info on head gasket. Haynes manual (original 1970's version) states NO head gasket fitted. However I remember fitting them many years ago. If they need a gasket what material and thickness is best suited? Cheers

Hello All I have a M199A Frame that has been modified for a sidecar. The Wheelbase has been shortened about 3". Mt grand plan is to undo the mods and put back to standard. Would someone please comfirm the correct wheel base, I have 51.7" I am also after some pictures of a bare frame, particuarly around the steering head. I think the frame is worth restoring it would be a shame to scrape it. Regards Trials09

Hi, Just had a look at the underside of the crank cases and I am not sure if they are 100% ok. On the gearbox drain plug side there is a ridge (crack?) that apears perfectly straight for about 1"then turns perfect 90 degrees and runs for another 1". In the center of cases ( where the casting has a hole running back up into it on about a 45 deg angle) there is a similar ride. Could they be casting marks or has something gone a bit wrong at some time. Photos of some in good condition would be appreciated, Cheers

I am having trouble starting my bike after taking it from a few boxes of parts to something that resemblies a Bultaco. I think I have kicked it over 1000+times praying each time but no luck. Here are some of the things I have tried and their results. FYI. It did start right away after I got it all together and it ran for 1 minute before it ran out of gas. It has new rings Cleaned all jets (2) with carb cleaner and compressed air - NO START It was over flowing the bowl and leaking. I made a new gasket and adjusted float -NO START ( But not overflowing or leaking ) I started to think spark issues maybe - I placed the opened up gap on the plug on the head and there w…

I have heard of putting a longer front brake arm to give more leverage to pull the clutch actuator. But, have any of yall done this? Modify the operating spindle, and flywheel cover, to accept a needle roller bearing, which can be easily lubricated, which greatly reduces friction and improves clutch action substantially. http://www.classictrial.co.uk/bultacodevproject.html If you have done this, how did it work for you? Also, do you have any tips if you did this mod yourself? What size bearing, how did you machine it, etc? Thanks, ryanroz

Hi, anyone recommend a company in the Newcastle/Durham area who can rebore my barrel? Cheers