Suzuki/Beamish

Im Rebuilding a black engine Beamish Suzuki and i was trying to work out the best way to clean up the fork legs, has any one got any tips please on the best way to clean them so the look a bit better ?

Anyone know where i can get the air filter for a Beamish 250 or some filter foam

Just got this Suzuki rl250 trials bike, from what i understand it is a 1976 model, the bike has a sound engine and no nasty suprises, only problem i am having is with the front brake, no matter how i adjust the brake it seems to slip under pressure, the shoes seem fine but i have heard the front brakes on these were not great anyway.

evening guys ive been busy with other road bikes for a while but have just picked up a late 76 early 77 beamish... i have no spark generator is kicking out voltage. so i figure cdi unit is U S or coil pack does anyone know any coil test readings but im leaning towards cdi unit....so... does anyone have any links to tests/repairs for them..? sorry for any typos im using a tiny phone at the moment

I’ve noticed my bike as hairline cracks across the headstock gusset plates I know this is common but what’s the best way to repair, or can it be left alone?

While reassembling my motor there were 2 thrust washers, fairly thick, on the mag side of the crank. Between the crank and the crank bearing. I cannot locate any referance in the parts manuals : http://www.beamishownersclub.com/pdf/BEWMall.pdf and did not take photos during diasassebly, which was now a couple of years ago It seems to place the crank off center but I bagged each assembly as I removed it so all parts should be in there original location and order. Before tightening down the case screws I was hoping for confirmation this was the correct order Thanks

In earlier topics some mentioned relining brake shoes, that worked. Can enybody tell me what the new lining material was? Cheers Miked

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for an RL250 with the light kit? Thanks, Redbug2

Hi all Does anyone on here have my first bike. 1979 Beamish Suzuki RL250 Reg No. DKY 335V. It would be nice to know what happened to it. Thank you Chris

Hi all Tried to remove the shaft securing the swingarm to the frame today, no joy, seems stuck solid. I have recently purchased the bike which was restored some years ago but not used since then, the swingarm has been re-chromed so I'm supprised the retaining shaft did not come out easily ? Any thoughts and tips on removing the shaft will be most appreciated. Regards Phil.

Hi All Going to be rebuilding the engine on my RL325 (1978) Will be needing the following Mains Big end Oil seals Gaskets Advice required as to the best places to get the parts TIA Roger

Hi Can anyone help me with information about the exhaust system on my 1980 RL250? I'm trying to find out if the main box has any sound reducing material inside or is it just an empty box? I have cut open the rear box and found evidence of some sound deadening material, so I will clean it up and re-pack it and weld it up. Regards Phil

Wow, hate to admit to this but I really need some help. I disassembled my RL back in the fall and made ready for seal / bearing replacements. All went as well as expected and I have the center cases back together. As I waited so long to complete, I took my time reassembling the clutch side outer case items. The small arm with the wheel - I think is called a shift drum follower? It has a tiny spring that anchors to the little stub at the 8 o'clock position of the shift drum. The bolt is a banjo type. Anyway, I simply cannot figure out how it attaches. I've looked at it as well as the schematic from the Beamish site and maybe it's my old age but I'm stuck. Anyon…

I've just acquired a solid rl250 and have begun disassembly for painting. Other than the flywheel weight that many suggest, are there any other mods that would improve the performance of this bike? I read somewhere that cutting the steering head and tucking in the front end 3-4 degrees would help the turning capabilities. Thoughts? Thank, Herman

Out for a spot of Practice at Dudwood on Sunday on the Beamish 250 have a great time and learnt a few things

I have the US silver engine model. Once I got this project running, I noticed a few things: 1.Bike smokes quite a bit, even at 60:1 mix of MC1. 2.Lots of engine noise. I used some rubber blocks between the head fins. Helped a little. 3.Bike took a lot of warm up time before I could shut off the choke. When I'd try to soon, it just wanted to die. I figured maybe the old carb was bad, so I got a new OKO from Mid Atlantic Trials. Same place I got my 199 carb. Bike still starts second kick and is acting the same. I pulled the head when I first got the bike and found a bad head gasket - replaced it. Piston was shiny new, but I didn't pull the cylinder to check …

I have a 1980 black engine Beamish, the fork springs are getting a bit tired and I am thinking about replacing them. I was wondering if full length springs would be ok to use without the spacer at the top or do I need to try and get some the correct length and continue to use the spacer. Any advice would be most welcome, thanks

Anybody know where I would get replacement split bushes that wrap round the bottom of the chrome fork slider​? RL250/325 air assisted forks. Nothing in manual about them so no part number. Thanks.

Changed my RL250 which was using 40:1 mix to an RL325 which has had rebore, new piston and rings. Should I use same mix running engine in?

Hi, I've asked Jim awaiting reply: Any other takes on ridding oneself of the air system? Springs, caps, anyone done it? Ta