Montesa

Went to fetch out my 2000 315r for some friday afternoon practice, and there was a pool of oil under the rear shock (definitely not from the gearbox, before anyone asks)Have taken it to a long established (mx/enduro) suspension specialist. He wasn't too sure, but said he'd have a look and let me know. Does anyone know of somewhere that can do the work on these shocks ? Or do you really have to replace the shock when it needs servicing ? (seems like a rip off to me) If a replacement shock is required, is there a better aftermarket item available in a similar price bracket ?

My 4RT requires a new spark plug more often than my previous 2 stroke Beta. By my analysis, it appears the iridium equivalent of the NGK CR6EH-9 is the NGK CR6EIA-9. Has anyone tried these? Getting longer life? Starting any easier? (not that I'm complaining...such a great bike to start) Cheers, Jim

New member here, and this is the first post on my recently purchased 2001 315r. Sorry to start my forum participation with a novel, but I thought I'd better provide all the information I can about my mysterious problem. The bike is hard to start, and when it does tick over with the choke on, the revs go sky high. I have to hold the choke in a half-on position while the motor warms up to keep it from either screaming or dying (is this normal?). Once warm, the idle hangs after revving and warbles (1-2 oscillations per second) when it finally drops, which it does very gradually over about 5-10 seconds. However, to keep it running, I have to set the idle rather high; oth…

I have recently (last week) bought a Montesa Cota 348 Malcolm Rathmell Replica. It is alleged to be of 1976 vintage. The frame and engine numbers are matching 51M 1*** yes there are only four numbers after the 51M which denotes a 348. This bike has not been registered for the road. I trolled about on the infernal web but can only find production numbers and type reference designations, but no actual year data. I am assuming that my 348 is one of the first for 1976, any help would be greatly appreciated. I have visited ToDoTrial but no success there, I have not bothered In Motion for info yet hoping some one here can help.

Can anyone tell me how to get some early Cota 123 -27M front forks apart. This set have small round steel bottoms. I have released the bottom bolt removed the top cap, springs & damper rods. I have unclipped the fork seal circlip & inserted a dummy rod in the bottom axle eye. Then carefully laid the fok bottoms in the vice using the axle to stop fork leg being pulled out of the vice. Using the tried & tested hammer action on the stanchions including the use of heat around the fork seal area - nothing moves. Finally one fork seal popped with the heat but still can not split forks apart. Any ideas?

Hi Folks, I wondered if anyone else has had this problem and found a fix? I have a standard 2006 4rt, no silly ignition maps or owt like that, but the spark plug is getting sooted(spelling?) up something bad. It looks as tho it's running rich. The bike starts to run rough after a couple of events and tick over is noticeably lumpy and stalls more easily as time goes on. I run on 98 octane fuel (more often BP fuel) and have use both puterline and pj1 filter oil to coat the standard air filter. the next thing for me to try is 95 octane fuel. After that I'm at a slight loss as what to try next. cheers Leigh

I have read so many posts saying the later bikes are better, particularly the latest black framed models, but what are the exact changes? Someone said there was a new camshaft for '07. This could indeed drastically affect the rideability of the bike, but could that not be retro fitted to e.g. an '05? Likewise the clutch could be updated with the later parts? I'd prefer a silver framed bike as it's likely to look better for longer, but how much better are the later bikes and can an earlier bike be made as good? Needless to say, I'm looking to buy a 4RT and so would really appreciate some info from those who know what the changes are.

hy all can anyone tell me alternative oils that can be used in engine and gear for montesa 4rt that are good

Right have said my stator might be going so i have to take off the left hand side cover off the engine. But my question is can i brake the seal ( you know the metal cover and the a seal that goes all the way round and the the engine block). So if i take the cover off can i re-use it, will i be ok if i put the cover back on with the same seal, or will i have to get a new seal. Gavin

What is the consensus on the stock air filter and cage and running no cage? How about a Twin Air vs a Jitsie filter any thoughts on what will make the Monty breath a be easier? Thanks Tom

Thinking about buying a 4RT, just wondering about the maintenance compared to a 2 stroke. Had a look through the 4RT manual on the net and got a bit of a shock. Seems that in addition to fresh oils, spark plug (and cap?) every 6 weeks. Honda recommend new piston rings every 6 months and a new piston every 12. Have riders really found this necessary or is this a hangover from MX motor manuals? 2 major top end strip downs a year seems excessive to me

Recently bought a 2004 315 which came with an owners' manual which recommends a petrol/oil mixture of 80 to 1. So I then set about searching for the appropriate oil. The H&D Racing website (Montesa specialists) recommends Castrol A747 which I understand smells slightly of castor oil (yummy!). But when I researched further I discovered that this oil is only recommended for mixes of up to 40 to 1 (nowhere near the 80 to 1 that Montesa recommends). Then tried my fave trials bike shop and they recommended Castrol Power 1 Racing oil. Bought some and was just about to mix it with the petrol when I read in the small print on the back of the bottle that it's apparently only s…

Hi I am building a 1976 Montesa Cota not a full resto just so it works good so I can ride and ride. My question is the engine has 2 oil fill caps. What oil does it take and how do I check the oil level or drain the old oil. Need to get this right so figured this is the best place to get the correct info.

Hello everybody I am a first time user of the forum and this is my first experience with a trials bike. I have however a long experience with bikes in general. I have not seen any other item on the forum, so I hope someone can help me a little further. This bike is from a friend of mine. He asked me to look at it and I can use it so now and then when it runs again. The bike was always running very well and nothing has been changed to the bike, apart from what I describe below. When I got the bike it had not been used for over a year and it wouldn't start. Obviously the carburetor was all gummed up, so I cleaned it. When I put it all back together the problem starte…

anyone got pic's

Hi everyone. I desparately need some help before a trip is needed to the dealer.My mate has just bought an 05 4rt and took it for its first outing today. Kicked over first time at the start, rode it fine for about half an hour, stopped for 5 mins for a drink and now it just will not start. We have now been trying for a good few hours to get it going but it does not want to know. I have taken the plug out and it is very slightly wet which I expected with kicking it over for so long without it firing, but it is in good nick with a good spark. I have cleaned and reseated all the connectors I can see but I dont know where to start now as I know nothing about 4 stoke bikes. c…

The delay still can't be this 100 hour endurance test. If the bikes are in this country and not being sent out to dealers it surely must mean there is a mechanical problem. instead of a recall the modification will be carried out prior to the bikes being released to the public. At this rate i'll have retired from trials before i get a new mont 4rt

Ive tried a few gear oils now over the last 3 months 4 to be exact, motal putoline light gear castrol and atf my conclusion is the ATF was by far the best for a few reasons : Clutch warm-up takes less time i no longer have to wait and hold the cluch in for the plates to release on 'cold' gear engagement. :Noticably less clutch noise while feathering under load. :cost. Has anyone tried anything similar and found different results?

anyone know anything about these never seen one other than in a pic , clutch case looks differnt is it a 200 with a difffernt top end

Just been re-assembling the Showa forks from my 2000 year 315. I followed the manual, bleeding everything as described and filling with the specified quantity of fork oil. The figures I have are: right fork: 407 cc fork oil to acheive 39mm air gap left fork: 391 cc fork oil to acheive 97mm air gap Problem is that the oil level appears to be 20mm+ too low in both cases. I'm no suspension expert, but I do know that the oil level / air gap measurement is a critical one where a few mm difference will make a big difference. So it is important to get right. Does anyone know for sure if any of the specifications in the manual are incorrect ?