arnoux

The easiest way is to us the centre bolt as the lever. Undo the centre bolt that holds the kicker onto the kick start shaft a couple of turns (and you will need to juggle the amount of turns out to get the correct amount of leverage), now fold the lever out towards the position you would kick start the bike. The knuckle part of the lever should now come in contact with the centre bolt head, as you keep folding the lever out, it will draw the kickstart knuckle along the shaft and off. Sometime it will need a small tap on the inside of the kick arm to help it break free. Done hundreds of bikes lie this in the workshop - works every time. Just juggle the amount of "out" on that bolt head to get the sweet spot.

2012 Gas Gas TXT 250cc, built in September 2011

Also as Huski mentioned there is two very slightly different piston sizes. The kits look identical but there is a difference. AJP Master cylinder used on Gas Gas bikes up to 2012 used a 9.48mm piston, Gas Gas Part number BT280222220 Then with the introduction of the new AJP unit construction master cylinder the piston size slimmed to 9.38mm Gas Gas Part number BT280222220/2 And then again when Braktec took over the AJP construction it reverted to the earlier 9.48mm piston size. Very confusing! You can usually tell the smaller 9.38mm pistons as they are a raw aluminium finish. The bigger 9.48mm ones are coated and are usually a bronzy to brown finish.

It could be the reservoir port hole is blocked. Do you have some freeplay on the actuating rod? If the piston isn't being allowed to return all the way, then the reservoir port hole is either fully or partially blocked, and you won't be able to bleed it in a month of Sunday! You must have some air gap between the piston and the actuating rod. Same deal on front master cylinders. It is by far the most common problem we see in the workshop with trials bikes. So many people think the actuating pin somehow affect clutch or brake take up point, but it is not for that. It should be set so there is 1mm or so freeplay when in it's relaxed position. Please check that first before moving on. The actuating pin on the rear brake lever can be adjusted for length by undoing the jam nut (10mm open ended wrench) and screwing the rod into the brake lever. until some freeplay is achieved. This allows the piston to go all the way back in the piston port, and opens the bleed port from the reservoir into the system.

Maybe use the contact page of Gas Gas UK, or call or email Gas Gas UK, you can obviously do that as you have filled out the Trials Central Forum post and submitted it. They will be able to help and get the order going whilst you are away. Support your trials businesses so they are still in business when this thing runs it course.

Just knock the piece IN if it is still in the case. Don't Freak out! The piece will fall into the hollow of the gearbox primary shaft, so do not be concerned, it cannot get out into the gearbox proper and cause any damage. The Gearbox breather that you broke is part of an air passage through the hollow main shaft, and through the hollow clutch retaining bolt. This allows the gearbox to remain at atmospheric pressure, without losing gearbox oil. It's a convoluted route, but it works. That little piece you have broken off is too big to pass through the clutch retaining bolt hole, and you are not going to get it out of the breather hole in the left case. The only way to retrieve it is pull the motor, and split the cases. BUT you don't need to do that. It will just rumble around in the little hollow in the primary shaft. Just put a new "L" Shaped breather back in and away you go. (I am a Gas Gas Importer, and have worked on tonnes of these motors, it is not a big deal this one) Even if you took the clutch retaining bolt out, I suspect it would still be too big to come out the threaded hole, so put it on the list of things to do, if you ever have to split the cases.

2M Carbon https://www.2mparts.com/

These bikes are jetted way too rich from standard with the Dellorto PHBG 21 carby Lift the clip on the needle to the top position. (so leaning the needle as much as possible). You will find the pilot jet is size 50 standard. They are much better with 42.5 (45 is OK but still a tad too rich) Main jet should be 100 This works perfectly with Australian fuel 95 Octane.

No better off using gear oil! Change out your water pump seal and shaft.

Yes they still have these two parts on the 2020 bikes, and all previous models. It is still the same part numbers. Your dealer may be out of stock, but they are definitely not obsolete or superseded part numbers.

Jam the butt of your hand over the tail pipe opening. No need to take the glove off that takes to long. On modern 2T's the end of the pipe is never that hot, even if you have only a thin glove on. Try it sometime on your bike so you get the feel of what to do, when it is not in full "Chainsaw mode". If you are not wearing gloves, use the sole of your boot. Stops it in a few seconds. Saved quite a few bikes with this method - it's fast, and it stops them pretty quick if you create a good seal.

DOT4

You can change it to 19 parts no problem, The 2018-19 Racing Bellville spring is 1.2mm, yours id 1.5mm. The part number is: MT22020GG-CGI-1 Make sure you get that one and not a 19 CONTACT Spring, as that is still 1.5mm The clutch friction material is also different on the 19 to your 14, it is a kevlar material. It makes a difference to the "bite', but not the softness of the lever pull. The clutch pre-load plate is different as well. 19 is adjustable and has 3 positions to choose from. Part number MT22030GG-CNW-1

Hi Here is the breakdown 1. From the stator you have one yellow wire that branches into 3 female spade connectors. This is power for the regulator, the rectifier, and the headlight. 2. A brown wire with a eye connector - this is earth to frame (usually connected to the coil mount bolt) 3. Two wires bound together - one brown with eye connector (same earth mount as above to coil), and one red and white with female spade connector - to coil. 4. One short black and white with female bullet coming from the back of the plug - this connects to your kill switch. 5. Two wires about 45mm long (one from the plug, one directly from the stator) - first one red /yellow with female bullet connector, and one brown with male bullet connector. These are the MAP switch. Connect to MAP switch, OR leave unconnected for MAP1, or connect together for MAP2. That’s it! cheers

What triple clamps are you using there John?

Huski That is not true Huski. The cylinders are not the same, the cylinder heads are not the same. The base gaskets are not the same, Only some of the pistons and little end bearings are interchangeable. The friction plates in the clutch are the same dimensions, but the steels are not. Very very few parts the same in both motors.

There is TWO seals. One to seal the coolant from exiting the pump, and the other on the shaft to seal the oil in the case and not contaminate the coolant. Both same size but different part numbers as one is NBR and the other Viton. In the little cavity between the two seals is a small hole that exits just below the water pump. (7 o'clock if you are looking straight at it). This allows coolant or oil to exit if either seal is compromised. As there is no "expansion tank" in the coolant system, I have found if you fill the radiator all the way to the top this can happen. The pressure relief valve on the top of the radiator sometimes gets a bit crusty or blocked a little and won't blow off completely, so the only other way for the system to relieve pressure is blowing past the WP seal and out that little hole. Before changinging seals make sure your coolant level is not right up to the top (I leave about 8 -10 mm gap - about half way up the top tank above the fins) and get that little pressure relief valve out and give it a good clean up. It may be OK.

Best method I have found is give it a good rev, and as the revs are falling apply pressure to the lever (either up or down depending on if you are in 1st or 2nd) and it will fall into neutral as the revs are "right".

This is the Gas Gas part number: BT13000CT-CSV-1 If you Google that you will find suppliers.

You say "water" but do you mean coolant? This type of corrosion is caused from the coolant sitting in the bottom of the clutch case. When your water pump seal fails it leaks into the side case. As oil floats on water (or coolant in this case , usually some form of ethylene glycol and water) the coolant ends up pooled under the transmission oil in that area. (it's the lowest point). That is partially why there is a glass oil sight, so you can check oil level, but also oil condition. If it goes the slightest bit milky that is usually a sign of contamination. Some coolants will do this when left in the side case, and also play havoc with the friction material on the clutch plates.

It uses an Gas Gas M01619135 exterior O ring (101.32 x 1.78) and a MT300416065 interior O Ring (82.27 x 1.78)

Sorry Bilko but you are wrong on this one. That is absolutely stock, and most cases of that era are quite "rough" like that. I can see how you may think it is damage, but I can assure you it is nothing to be concerned about. Footnote: I have done many many GG engine rebuilds over the last couple of decades, and seen new cases straight from Spain, as I am Gasser importer in Australia. So I have seen enough to know.

Yes the post 2015 water pump is a direct replacement for the earlier 2003 - 2014 units. Fits straight on.

In relation to chat about main bearings above - There is a gallery in the transmission that basically catches oil "thrown" up by the gears rotating. it feeds this transmission oil into a gallery behind the LHS main bearing and between the seal behind the stator. Centrifugal force from the rotating main bearing forces this oil to lubricate the LHS main bearing and ejects it out through the little hole in the outside of the bearing (that lines up with a hole in the case) and back on top of the transmission sump plug. creating a lubricating system for the LHS Main Bearing. If the main bearing oil seal is shot, or if the hole in the bearing is not aligned with the hole in the case, it allows transmission oil to get into the crank and hence the smoke. If a LHS main bearing it is not set properly in the case, and is "rotating" under revs or load, the evacuation hole may be out of alignment "sometimes" and hence forcing tranny oil past the bearing seal, into the crank, and hence the smoke. This is pretty much why Gas Gas stopped using the magnesium cases. The maggy cases would heat up (and hence expand) much quicker than the steel main bearing, and they could "spin" in there housing if revvved hard in that little window between when the cases swelled as heated, and before the bearing caught up. Also check your flywheel key is not sheared. This can allow random ignition timing as the trigger point moves in relation to the crank angle.