totalshell

never never never buy a bike in bits.. its goingto cost a fortune over the short time you have it .. buy a old twin shock yam 250 or something then you ll ride for next to no money but dont buy the gas gas..

get em done in two pack be done in a couple of hours and will look mint see my tank was done in 15 minutes

i've been having some work done on my bike by ady brayshaw ( details on my blog) and in his 'shed' i 've seen enduro and trials bike with new seats built from the seat base up, give him a try if any one can sort it for fair money he's your man

horses for courses as the first reply stated for your mains etc use good quality stuff ( check out the specs on a bearing factors site and you ll see that generally the more expensive brands are rated for higher speeds and strength) the lower quality stuff is ideal for trials wheels , low speeds low stresses ( how many revs does a wheel do in a trial never mind a minute) repacking with waterproof grease before using will help but dont over pack.. two thirds of the race is more than enough. dont jet wash the things and always use shielded rather than open. make friends with your local bearing factor they have something for everything or can get it and will help you out no end.

same guidance as for a 4k bike condition is everything.. think how long it took to make that money and spend an appropriate amount of time checking the bike before you even get on the thing. check the dear stuff more closely , wheelbearings are cheap chains/ sprockets are not. as for which make and model buy something that someone will buy off you eveentually, buy something you can get parts for today fairly locally next day mail order you dont want to be laid up waiting 3 months for a replacement for a worn bike specific bolt.. the mont has a lot to comend it ( bullet proof) fair parts availability, but the Beta evo is much the same mechanically as the rev 3 the lads at silsden have pretty much everything in stock you 'll sell it when the time comes and everyone knows the faults.. so for me rev 3 2002/3 nice and clean by that i mean not necassarily new plastics but round wheels with no rusty nipples unbashed frame and rad, forks with no lumps missing yolks with no crash damage some evidence that someone has loved it or simply not used it for that money it ll be a private sale ebay or tmx but view before you bid and take someone who knows what good looks like or more importantly what C##p looks like!

' a valid reason' i once overheard a rider been told by the CoC that even though he'd stopped to help the bobbies at an accident that that wasnt a good enough reason.

you can change without even taking the wheel off.. i did three on my Yam road bike. keep tyre inflated... cut damaged spoke in half, wiggle the end on the hub out. unscreww other end from nipple ( inflated tyre will stop it falling into rim) get new spoke and insert hub end you ll probably find that spoke is too long to get into nipple even if you press nipple in so cut maybe 5mm from end of spoke and get in in.. tighten up all okay.. when riding abroad i kept have a dozen front and rear spokes ready cut tapped to the inside of my headlight cowl, only needed them once in 40k of continetal motoring on a campsite just outside Gyor in Hungary.

sorry OTf looks like a grand trial but hardly typical pre65 going, granted the p65 winner only dropped a couple of marks but he is good very good, and was thus street ahead of the rest . the low entry (p65) speaks volumes. when TOP class pre 65 riders choose to ride a modern bike or compete in thier local club event instead it speaks volumes especially as p65 trials and especially twinshocks seem to be having a recession proof boom at the mo.

no apparently the Bishops booked.. and er indoors has one of those faces on..

''could maybe be a little harder'' ??? looked plenty hard enough to me and the number of stay away names adn the fact that the rider who finished 2nd on the pre 65 rode a modern bike might suggest it was a little 'tough' back to an old chestnut.. in the clip featured above is it a clean or a five?

bike tick..all sorted with mrs tick.. only to twig when filling in entry is that its same weekend as no.1 daughters confirmation at church.. doh.. much un christian profanaties

best looking bike this year by a long way.. very very nice.. what kudos a bike built by a bloke in a bobble hat.. job done. now wheres the hacksaw so i can get the remington in the vice and nip down barclays before closing time..

you do have recourse to claim the money off the git who sold it to you.. get hold of him and get him to give you the folding or drag him down the bobbies..

sell it... NOW you will be left with nothing come tommorrow morning.. it could be stolen over night anything could happen but if it is taken away tomorrow thats the last you ll see of it or any of your money and as for the guy whose really nice at trials .. now you know why.. he's a lying scrote who played a part in selling you a stolen bike

always good to have an update when the problem is solved,, cheers

piece of cake they'll fall out! whip the reservoir caps/ lids off when you push the cylinders back into the calipers and you ll wonder what you worried about.. put some coppa silp on the back so they dont squeal..

ten out of ten for effort. your bike isnt built for long distance trials it was designed to ride sections not 85 road miles. the knack of riding the thing over long road distances is to vary your position and sitting down is a major part of that. i'd acknowledge that riding ' seated' is niether easy or comfortable yet i suspect that an officer of the law might 'demand' that you do so to be properly in control of your vehicle..

okay if club membership has to be an essential for an acu reg card why dont the acu require all membership be the same cost you pays for your licence online nominate a club and the acu gives them the money.. and your details electronically is that too simple.. no nominated club no registration card

at the moment i have an acu trials registration card, i also have club membership cards for 4 clubs ( annual subs between 5 and 15 pounds) there is absolutely no need to link the two i'll join which ever clubs put on decent trials and or whose aims i support. the nessecity as john pointed out for the club secretary to sign each form is a throw back to the days of black and white telly and pathe news. for a beginner it must certainly provide a barrier.. how many times has the question ''what do i need for my first trial?'' been raised on these very pages. make it easy for clubs secretarys then all you have to di is flash your photo registration card and club membership when signing on and bingo..

certainly a well knowen 'issue' with early 247's mine did exactly the same just be doubly sure as greeves said before starting a section.

looking forward to it.. dragging the Fantic from the back of the garage specially.

i've tried the clutch on an Armac bike and it was almost as light as my beta.

the lack of montesas in twinshock trials speaks volumes.. i've used a cota in 'modern' twinshock trials and won first time out. if your wanting to ride at club level then yes it'll be competative if its mechanically good above that level look elsewhere. on the other hand if in decent nick they represent excellent value for money cos bang per buck of purchase price they are probably the best beaten only by suzuki beamish which seem to go for nothing..

i take a plastic box. in it i have open ended spanners 10/ 12/13/14/15/16 mm allen key set pliers hammer zip ties footpump tyre pressure guage spark plug spanner big adjustable spanner can of fuel. dont take too much as you can never find what you what if you do,

blinked and missed them..