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It's like Wheeler Dealers and Groundhog Day, all in one.
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http://www.wurth.co.uk/catalogue/pdfs/UK-CD_12_0565.pdf
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Hundreds of readers across the globe who suffer from bike cleaning OCD, are now twitching in front of their computer screens at the sight of a dirty bike being fitted with new rim decals.
Is that Andrex Quilted?
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The number in the plug identification code refers to the heat range of the plug.
In Italy where the bikes are made, nearer to the equator= climate hotter, correct plug 7
In the UK where you are using the bike, nearer to the North Pole= climate colder, correct plug 5
Simples
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http://www.mxbits.com/acatalog/Exclusive_Seal_Savers.html
.............and scroll down
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There should be an adjusting bolt and nut that screws into the swinging arm pivot point. This allows you to set the brake lever at your desired height. If this is missing, they often work loose if not checked regularly, your brake lever may be angled up
higher than it needs to be.
Get on your knees or tip the bike on its left hand side and check for the hole where this should screw into. Next wipe up all the fuel that has leaked over your garage floor and next time remember to check your fuel tap is turned to off.
If it is missing, find a bolt that fits, about 6mm by about 15mm ish and a nut to lock it in place. Then adjust pedal height to where it feels more comfortable.
VERY IMPORTANT that there is clearance between the push rod on the rear of the brake pedal and the piston in the master cylinder. If not your rear brake will bind on, as it gets hotter and everything expands it will jam on and fry your pads and caliper seals.
Then you will have the joy of renewing the seals and a world of pain bleeding the back brake (see recent posts). This will age you by at least a decade.
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As the coolant bleeds into the clutch/gearbox, less coolant remains to cool the engine until the engine begins to overheat causing your lumpy running.
Easy to fix, impeller casing off, side casing off, change the faulty seals and it's worth changing the impeller shaft while it is all apart as the seals often wear a small ridge in the old shaft.
Flush gearbox/clutch several times with cheap oil until it comes out the same colour as it goes in. Then put in the good stuff.
Not too expensive to rectify, parts
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Did you chuck your old pads out? If not, stick them back in and see if there is a difference. Your change in braking performance based on what you have said you have
changed seems purely down to pad material/break in.
If there is any lip on the edge of the disc, the old pads would have moulded to this, new flat pads may not be contacting the lipped disc over a large enough contact area.
Have a look and keep us updated to what you find.
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Indeed. And some nice shots on Pipeline. The production on this video is superb, note the camera is nearly always moving.
You know to get this good the guy has shed some skin.
I reckon his elbow scabs if placed end to end would reach from Edinburgh to Skye.
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2008 Rev 3
May 2010 Stator fails. (Plastic cover removed after each usage)
Sept 2010 Water pump casing corroded badly enough to need replacement.
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Beuller.................?
Beuller.................?.
Beuller.................?.
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So has anyone changed from a 250 Evo to a 290 Evo or vice versa and what were your reasons for doing so?
Can anyone describe the differences they noticed either way?
I have noticed that at the SSDT the majority of riders plump for the 250 suggesting it is easier to ride for prolonged periods or am I missing something?
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In honour of 'The Few' on the 70th Anniversary
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Just had one rewound at Westcountry Windings. Much cheaper than a complete new stator and guaranteed for 6 months. They said the original ones fail due to the low quality of wire used in the ignition winding. It is too thin and fails after going through numerous heat cycles. The wiring on the three other coils is ok but not very neatly wound.
The dirt getting in behind the flywheel probably gets forced in via the oblong shaped rubber grommet on the engine casing nearest to the radiator when the bike is washed, especially if using a power washer. That oblong grommet is not a particularly tight fit on the casing.
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08 Rev 3 footrest hangers, do they fit a 2010 Evo?
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Welsh farmer's idea of a blind date?
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Ah, so that methodical mind IS powered by tea, I knew it.
It's all beginning to make sense now.
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Dan, being American, forgot the most important thing. Because it is your first time, take regular breaks to make and drink tea. This will give you time to assess each stage and not rush it. Rubbing your chin also helps, so does taking digi photograghs as you go.
You think you will remember which way round something goes when you reassemble, but you won't.
Have fun.
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How will you closely monitor it when you are wide open in 6th across a field between sections?
Mechanics Rule No. 26. An item that needs renewing, if not renewed at the earliest opportunity, will fail when furthest from home/assistance/tools and in failing will cause other undamaged parts to fail.
The resulting repair will cost twice as much.
To sum up, a stitch in time saves nine. (readers of the playstation generation consult parents)
Trip to A&E optional.
Hindsight chargeable @
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Ipone fully synthetic gives a very clean burn, Repsol gear oil comes in handy 500ml bottle with extending long spout which makes putting it in a doddle.
I'm sure others have their preferences but these are mine. Reassuringly expensive. Other brands are available.
Someone will probably come on and say they run theirs on used chip fat.
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Lampkins the Beta importer. They screw into place like a see through plastic bolt with a rubber washer. They only cost a couple of quid, don't over tighten the new one. Not much more than hand tight.
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Hand on hip and riding side saddle, hmmm
Altogether now;
It's fun to stay at the Y-M-C-A
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