jimmyl

I wonder if it was a condition of the sale of Montesa to Honda to keep the brand or Honda just see it as a marketing avenue, I thought I read somewhere a while back that the Montesa name was dropped from the works bikes/team??

I ride virtually every weekend including a couple S3s and all Normandales etc -got 3 sets of wheel and maybe change bearings in each once a year or maybe twice in the wheels I use most. I buy a bag load on flebay 12 for £20 or similar so if it cost me £20 or £30 year. I have a tool to knock out /drift back in correctly and takes 5 mins to swap. I run them until they are noticeably rough rather than as soon as you feel any hint of play - works out at less than 50p a trial worst case so can live with that - as said above if you are going through say a set a month just riding weekends then something is probably not right.

Have you checked tick over

I think trials conditions are probably worse than a 500 mile trail ride as engine is hot and cold and working at lower rpm/ higher loads etc. But yes I think the 4rt manual and service spec is based on motocross conditions and not trials. 6 weeks oil and filter every other has worked for me over the last 10 yrs. Also added with a bit of common sense - probably ride all summer in club trials and change less often. A flat out S3 round or wet national and will do more often

From memory It's a mudguard off, loosen air box Unscrew the clamps on the inlet and air box hose -the throttle body will them come off if you unplug it. Tank off or at least unbolted Take plastic cover . Unclip Throttle end You can then twist the adjuster out of the Throttle body by spinning the throttle body - feed old cable out/ new cable back in Reverse above make sure you have free play in the cable. Also worth giving the throttle body a clean out - I used WD40 or similar to swill the internal bore - take out tick over screw and flush drilling - makes a note of the number of turns and don't loose the spring.

Don’t think I’ve replaced a gasket for 4 or 5 years by oiling/ greasing on assembly

Will dig it out unless Dave beats me to it

did you see Barfy's(Dave's) drawing

I think the 315 used to have them if you search for that

Glad your sorted but trying to get around the logic of your problem/solution. If I read your post correctly you had this issue with 2 completely independent sets of friction and steel plates. Therefore would think the problem is not related to that -you have done all the mods to the basket etc with no improvement so would think not that. Slipping the clutch you would think would only have an effect on the clutch plates but we have ruled them out as you have had 2 sets. Slipping the clutch so aggressively though could generate a lot of heat which then transferred to slave cylinder or other parts of the actuator mechanism - or maybe some water in the brake fluid which has now boiled off. Maybe a partly sticking piston which with heat has freed off. May never know?? Hope it stays working fine though for you.

Think the elf oil was spec on the 315r also but as with the 4rr atf works equally as good as designed for very pack clutches with a smooth take up and minimal flare ??

The std clutch isn’t bad - May could be improved . what you describe is a major fault somewhere or you are super fussy. doing all the work indicated is fine if you are super fussy but should not be necessary unless you have a major fault / or bad set up in the actuation mechanism - master /Slave/ hose / levers etc . My take on it any way as a mont man for 20 years plus and an qualified engineer

The std 315/4rt set up is very good. The snail cams are small and compact and less likely to be knocked on rocks which can move the rear wheel and worst case take the chain off. The big over size snail cams may look bling but may cost you a five or worse. the csp ones look like a lighter weight version of the standard so probably you have the best set up already ??

does the release point seem a long way in on the clutch lever - would be good to determine if its an actuator problem or is it an actual clutch issue. maybe master cyl has been rebuilt with the wrong piston or something silly.

It in the big rubber boot under the Throttle body - above the gearbox sprockets -needs a bit of fishing out among the other plugs. You will need to confirm the 260 2106 has a PTB

Check the Crf software - maybe more up to date. thats the trail it led me

If you check press release / sales blurb for the 2017 it did say PTB. Having to send it back to Japan is a bit of a loose definition of PTB?? As said I wouldn’t want to change mine ?

Would that be an 8RT glad you are having fun and enjoying the 4rt

Had same results I think may need more modern software - I did look into it but I like the st set up on the RR so didn't bother progressing.

Think everyone must of been up there ??

wasn't that was Tuesday??

Guessing Dibbs had his early day today so top 3 are at the back of the field now - all down to nerves and luck

Std 300rr is shorter

Good to see Michael Brown back up there

Hi - if you search the forums will be in more detail but basically I think its an emission thing or environment thing. If you dump the tank you can blanks off the hole in the air box which stops any excess oil gathering in ther. Also the fan relay mounted below the Throttle Body can now be placed up out of harms way behind the head stock where the little tank came from. I then put a small in line fuel filter on the end of the pipe from the engine to the now removed tank and again tuck up in the head stock. The tank and pipe to airbox can now be stored away until you sell the bike and present the new owner with a box of bits he is never going to use again either ? Worth getting one of the little button fuel cap breathers and dumping all the vents and pipes that come as standard - get the flush fit ones. Honda genuine bits can be good value so don't be afraid to look there first. 315r bits are also common/interchangeable ie swing arm/linkage wheels etc