mcman56

Are any knee guards/ pads available that provide good side protection for knees, both inside and outside? I have a bad habit of hitting both of those areas. EVS Option was the best I could find that wrapped a bit around the inside and outside but I'm limping around today from a hit to the inside of my knee when falling down in a rock pile. Any input or recommendations would be helpful I have seen some that look like socks with foam but they don't look to have any kind of hard plastic shell. How do they survive sharp rocks? Are they hot. Summers are quite warm here but protection can be more important. I have seen others that have good coverage but have pivot bolts on the sides where I'm looking for protection. Are your knees adequately protected from those pivot bolts? I would not want one driven into the side of my knee like a nail. https://www.evs-sports.com/products/option-knee-pad?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&utm_source=digitalthrottle&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=13698508&gclid=Cj0KCQiA34OBBhCcARIsAG32uvMDaYXz7f6KgHmCEZ7B_X8OQS3WqWSe-WYAGA20xgeScLgEhGkt1ogaAnyrEALw_wcB

That does not sound like my chain tensioner sound. The tensioner was a higher pitch, sort of a tink vs that click.

Does your tappety noise sound sort of like a busy sewing machine or is it more of a tink-tink-tink with the pitch of a small ball peen hammer hitting a hard metal surface? Is it just noticeable and only at idle? Mine had the tink sound and so did the only other Beta 4t I got to listen to. I traced it to the cam chain tensioner. They have a very small spring. The sound was still there with a new tensioner so I went to a manual tensioner and it went away. When you look at the tensioner, the ratchet mechanism is made of hardened steel so I think it was designed to sort of bang away while the chain tries to flap around. I think it is normal and does not hurt anything but found it annoying. Probably the only reason you can hear it is that the rest of the engine and standard muffler is so very quiet.

Don't get the news EVS elbow guards. The straps are quite short, barely big enough for average size arms.

The oddest kill button related issue I have seen was on a buddies 2016 Beta. A shop had connected a lanyard type switch and it worked OK for a while but then quit. When kicking, it would try to fire a couple of times and then stop. In the process of diagnosing, I was kicking it over with the button disconnected and noticed arcing inside the connector on the bike side. (how lucky was that) It looked fine from the outside but somehow, the shop had damaged the connector internally to create an intermittent short. I replaced the connector with soldered wires and all was good. If I had not noticed the arcing, I can't imagine how I would have found that issue.

I have been wondering about this. How do you set up a slider in a lathe? All of the external surfaces are non-precision as-cast surfaces. How is the slider held and how do you get the bore aligned straight and centered?

Interesting comments. What is this air box kit? Which Gas Gas kickstand fits? Does it use a different mount? I tend to hit the Beta 4t kickstand bracket on steps. It creates a burr and then the kick stand does not rotate easily.

A sheared key and rotated flywheel could alter timing and have a similar result.

I think I heard nylon also but have no source to back it up, maybe this. https://www.ducatimonster.org/threads/m1100evo-nylon-fuel-tank-coating.338538/

I had a 2002 with a translucent tank and the tank grew over time. I ended up having to slot the mounting hole and it got harder and harder to push down between the tubes. I read somewhere that it is the alcohol in US gas that causes the expansion. I don't think HDPE does that. Does it?

I ended up with Forma. They fell stiffer/ more protective than Garne. The sole seems much more durable than Garne. The foot area is wide so the fit feels the same as Garne. I wear thick knee pads that go far down into the boot and they calf area just closes. I had different pads when using Garne so don't know how they compare. I could probably use knee pads with less padding in the shin area. I would highly recommend the Forma boots.

Both of my TY175 side covers are patched so I'm wondering what else might fit. I have not seen any TY specific ones on ebay.

Beta recommends oil changes at 40 hours and valve adjustments at 60. You can use Mobile 1 10-40 MC oil available most everywhere. There is a paper filter and a couple of screens to clean out. It is easy and the filter is the same as a Japan bike so readily available (maybe DRZ250). Valve adjustments are more involved. You almost have to pull the motor but leave the swing arm pivot in place and rotate the engine down for access. The adjustment is with screws so you don't need shims. Trials bikes are pretty simple so It is not particularly difficult but takes time. (I am curious how this compares with the Honda.) The carb is more work to get out compared to the 2t but once I got it where I wanted it, I have not had to remove it. The Beta 4t also takes very little pressure to kick. It takes sort of a slow long push and actually does not like to start when given a hard kick. I'm guessing the Honda is the same. From what I have read, the Beta 4t is about 7 pounds heavier than the 2t but 7 lighter than the Honda. People say the Beta turns a little sharper and has slightly more ground clearance than the Honda but I can't comment. I find the Evo, 2t & 4t, rear brake to be kind of weak but tend to drag the rear brake most of the time so it is likely a personal problem.

When I first got my Beta 300 4t, it felt abrupt on the initial blip off of idle. (I believe the new ones come with a slower throttle so maybe that is no longer the case.) This was only a concern when doing full lock or near full lock turns while slipping the clutch. Going down one tooth on the front sprocket helped. Getting the jetting correct also helps. I had to go leaner than all of the recommendation I have seen. I replaced two of the thick clutch plates with the thinner two stroke plates and this made the clutch a bit smoother. Power is very smooth and generally easy to manage so I would not think you would have a need to soften the power. As alluded to above, it is only a 5 speed. Gear spacing is good but top speed is limited particularly after going down one tooth on the front. This could be a limitation when used as a trail bike. On the plus side the standard model is the quietest gas powered trials bike available. The factory model has a different muffler and is a bit louder. I have also owned a 200 2t and really liked it for trials, a very sweet bike. However, it did fell weak when climbing steepish hills in taller gears so if your trails include that, it could be an issue. I have not spent any time on the Honda so can not compare but I hear gear box oil is something like $80/ quart.

I recently acquired a 2001 270 Rev 3 with very little wear on the original tires. I also have a 2016 Beta evo 4t 300 and am a very average not great rider. The biggest difference is the 2t - 4t thing. (Prior to the 4t I had a 2t 300 Beta and the low end power was very soft and smooth. In contrast, the 270 is quite sharp right off the bottom.) The second biggest is poor traction on 20 year old tires. The Rev 3 feels a lighter than than the 4t. The rear brake is much more powerful and it shifts smoother than other Betas I have owned. Front brakes feel the same. Steering geometry feels pretty much the same. The Rev 3 suspension feels stiffer. I have had 2 evos and it took quite a while for the suspension to break in so it could be that it needs break in or it is by design or maybe by not moving for 20 years. In the not too distant past I have had a 2008 rev3 200, 300 2t Factory and the 4t 300 plus get occasional rides on brand new bikes. I ride about the same on all of them. The 2008 had a fair amount of hours on it and the suspension was quite plush so I think the 01 will break in. I would look for a very well maintained bike regardless of year. Low hours are desirable. Lots of people ride Hondas so light weight can not be the most important thing.

I have had 3 Betas and they were all like that. I have had pretty good success using this to reattach: https://www.amazon.com/Amazing-GOOP-170011-Marine-Adhesive/dp/B081XMZQPJ

The raised needle masked the problem for just one ride. I pulled the point plate and it is quite dirty near the seal but not really wet.

I read that a lean needle can cause this so I looked at the carb again. The needle did have a very slight amount of up and down play in the slide, maybe 0.010 inches. I have not seen this on other carbs but don't know that I would notice. I raised the needle one position to full rich and added a small spacer on top of the clip to get rid of the play. The hanging idle seems gone or at least greatly reduced.

Can the magneto side seal be replaced form the outside? Are there any tricks or advice? I did replace all of the seals in the carb. Someone sells a kit.

I have a TY175 that has a delay before returning to a slow idle. When cutting the throttle, it will stay at a high idle for 3 to 5 seconds before returning to a slow idle. Just guessing... but if a slow idle is 800 rpm, the fast is maybe 1300. Besides that it runs fine. Is that normal or to be expected? I have cleaned the carb multiple times, checked the reeds and gone from a 30 to 32 and then 35 pilot jet but it is much the same. I tried spraying WD40 all around the intake system to see if there was a leak. It is mostly stock with dual stage reeds, fmf muffler and a little weight removed from the flywheel. Is there something else to look for? IIRC 4 strokes can do this when rich and 2 strokes when lean. Is that correct?

Garne boots are a good fit for me but they do not offer a lot of protection. Once aged a bit, they feel like bedroom slippers so I want something with more protection. I have been using MSR dual sport boots but they are obsolete. I just ordered some Alpinestars but when I tried them on, they are too narrow in the ball/ toe area and skinny in the calf area. Reviews suggest that SIDI is also small in the toe area. Is there another brand that is wide in the front, has plenty of room in the calf and offers better protection. How is the fit with Forma? One article reviewing trials boots even recommend these as trials boots. Has anyone tried them? https://www.amazon.com/ONeal-Mens-Logo-Rider-Black/dp/B073XW4YMF/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=thedirtbike-20&linkId=5c22ab8e9c248bd48cd8b5e592a08226&language=en_US

This bike was a rare find and is just starting to show wear on the original tires. I inspected the exhaust and it is very clean. The 270 has a reputation of being on the loud side. The root of the problem is that I have been spoiled by the sound level of a Beta 4t so am looking for any options to quiet down the 2t. I put an FMF universal muffler on a TY175 and liked the result but it looks too wide for the Beta. I do remember hearing of people replacing the curved Montesa inner pipe with a straight one for improved power and "better" sound.

Did some Montesas 2ts come with a curved inner muffler tube, the perforated one that gets fiberglass wrapped around it? Are they still available somewhere? What years and models came with them? Did they make the bike quieter than a straight pipe? I have an 01 Beta I would like quieter and wonder if this is an option.

This is a 2016 four stroke. It uses the same pedal. It was an improvement for me.

How often do you replace or refinish the basket?