Suzuki/Beamish

Hey guys, My dad purchased a Suzuki B120 trials off ebay that was listed as being Gaunt, but he doesnt think it actually was. Is there anyway of telling? thanks Jack

Hello all. I am having a machinist friend to manufacture some replacement bushings for the RL 250 Suzuki. I picked up a sample of a new stock item and plan to have a set made from those specs. We are planning on using bronze stock to make them. I don't know what the cost is going to be, but I thought I'd see if anyone else needed a set. This is the same guy that is going to make an aluminum swingarm for the same bike for me.

I have been look on Gasket guru for a new cylinder base gasket for my Black engine 250 which is the standard thickness gasket please

hello, recently purchased a tatty but rideable beamish suzuki 250, have just removed the rear wheel to replace the rear sprocket and noticed that the cush drive part has been welded to the hub and also one of the wheel spacers is a piece of plastic pipe ! I am sure that the plastic spacer is a bodge but does anybody know if the welded up cush drive is a proper beamish modification or another bodge {the welding is good quality which is unusual for a lash up} Also the wrong front wheel is fitted {it has a 7 inch drum which would be great for road racing but is a bit heavy for trials} does anybody know if the correct wheel is the same as any other suzuki models {i was …

ive tryed sammy miller, he has stopped selling the fiber glass tanks due to a quality issue. any other suggestions? thanks Ben

My dad got him self a really nice red and black 250 Beamish Suzuki and he let me have a go i was a Bultaco boy so was a bit like forget it but he said its real easy to ride, it just floated around in a nice way and was really easy to ride, for me the bultaco felt more planted you felt the ground more you new what you were riding over, but the beamish just floated up the stream like it was no big deal it was completely different to ride i liked them both

Can anyone tell me if spokes are available off the shelf to rebuild the front wheel for a beamish/rl ? or if not best place to get it done near Leeds in West Yorkshire, Thanks ps it,s for a conversion on my TY/Majesty 200 clone, I am putting a beamish front end on it.

Hi, I've asked Jim awaiting reply: Any other takes on ridding oneself of the air system? Springs, caps, anyone done it? Ta

Out for a spot of Practice at Dudwood on Sunday on the Beamish 250 have a great time and learnt a few things

Wow, hate to admit to this but I really need some help. I disassembled my RL back in the fall and made ready for seal / bearing replacements. All went as well as expected and I have the center cases back together. As I waited so long to complete, I took my time reassembling the clutch side outer case items. The small arm with the wheel - I think is called a shift drum follower? It has a tiny spring that anchors to the little stub at the 8 o'clock position of the shift drum. The bolt is a banjo type. Anyway, I simply cannot figure out how it attaches. I've looked at it as well as the schematic from the Beamish site and maybe it's my old age but I'm stuck. Anyon…

Picked up a RL250 a bit back for a future project and wondering if it would benefit from a longer header pipe? It runs very smoothly but I like a rorty engine that jumps with a slight twist of the throttle,I know that's contrary to common Trials theory but I have a SWM to ride when I need traction in adverse conditions. I had a 240 Fantic and never felt like it was too Zappy and find that type of power fun. The Zook seems to be soft down low then comes on in the mid range. Haven't had time to check the timing or compression(Feels good to kick through) It looks like every other trials bike has a longer header pipe than the Suzuki's short U-turn.

Looking for an inlet manifold, silencer, and air filter, however was thinking of getting a diy kit to make one. Any help much appreciated. Oh yeah its an rl250 black engine 1980

Has anyone replaced their Mikuni VM28 with a Keihin PWK28 or an OKO flat slide carb? How does it work on the bike and what jetting did you use?

Hi all Tried to remove the shaft securing the swingarm to the frame today, no joy, seems stuck solid. I have recently purchased the bike which was restored some years ago but not used since then, the swingarm has been re-chromed so I'm supprised the retaining shaft did not come out easily ? Any thoughts and tips on removing the shaft will be most appreciated. Regards Phil.

I have been unable to find the torque numbers for the cylinder base nuts or the mag flywheel nut in any of the manuals I have. Anyone have these at hand? thanks in advance

I have been offered another bike which if I bought it would mean the Beamish has to go first. What sort of price do you think I can get for it? Here's the spec- 1978 Beamish Suzuki 250. Rare Red/Black model. New Paintwork/Lacquer to Fuel Tank New Chain/Sprockets New Levers New Decals all round New Michelin Tyres Fully serviced with new plug, lead, plug cap and oils Repaired kick start lever New front fork gaiters (still to fit) Previous owner did- New seat cover New Wheel Bearings New WES alloy silencer All stainless fasteners Polished Forks, Yokes etc New head bearings New Swing arm bushes New White Stihl Mudguards New Betor rear shocks To go with …

Just removed the stanchions from the sliders of a black engine Beamish (last model) as they need re-chroming. I'm a bit confused at to what I've found, it's the first time I've worked on Suzuki forks. I removed the spring, tipped the stanchion up and out slid the damper rod assembly - surprisingly, there's no shuttle valve assembly like Betor or Marzocchi have, so I checked the manual on the owners club website and that's how they are. There's one thing I can't fathom though. In the bottom of the stanchion is what looks like a bush and it feels pretty solid, as though it is pressed in, picture below (not the best...) I've looked at the parts diagram again and I can'…

hello, can anyone advise me where to get a con rod kit for a silver engine RL250 beamish . have tried one suzuki dealer with no luck, and four other suppliers of pattern parts. two of the suppliers had con rods but both turned out to be the wrong part when delivered (very annoying!) somewhere in the south east of england would be best so i can drive there and see if the part is correct before i pay .(and can avoid the messing about involved in returning parts) alternatively would any body know if the TS250 or TM250 from the early 1970`s (or any other models) use the same con rod ? this would give me another option to try when looking thanks in advance for any help…

Hi All, Ive just recently purchased a silver engined 1978ish Suzuki Beamish from fleabay as the bike was around 150 miles away unfortunatly i couldn't get to view the bike before auction ended! on arrival the bike started but only for a few seconds as there was poss only a cupful of petrol in it so couldn't really asses the bike properly, Anyway after getting the bike home I put fuel in it but the same thing it only ran for a few seconds, so off with the carb and airfilter and cleaned both through I also removed the silly 50cc scooter race can that was fitted on the end of the exhaust, Now the bike can run without stalling it can also rev out well BUT the bottom end …

Hi Guys, I've just bought an RL250. Its 1975 i think and in the Heron Suzuki colours, and im very pleased with it. However, the front brake is appalling, I've cleaned up the shoes with emery paper, and de-greased and dremaled the drum with a wire brush. But its still really bad. can i get a new liner for the hub? any suggestions? The ball bearing is missing out of the kick start, not unusual im sure, what would be the best way forward for this? I suppose the answer may be replace the bearing, but I'm thinking the kick start will be so worn It will just fall out. thanks in advance for you help Guys