Suzuki/Beamish

My dad got him self a really nice red and black 250 Beamish Suzuki and he let me have a go i was a Bultaco boy so was a bit like forget it but he said its real easy to ride, it just floated around in a nice way and was really easy to ride, for me the bultaco felt more planted you felt the ground more you new what you were riding over, but the beamish just floated up the stream like it was no big deal it was completely different to ride i liked them both

I purchased a new mag side crank bearing (09283-30006) and it has a metal lip that the old one did not. Does this lip face the crank itself as it appears a bit too wide to face the case, or was I supplied the wrong one? Thanks in advance

Hi All - I read on here that rear shocks should be 340mm on a Beamish - however i have found a decent second hand pair of 360mm betors, will this be detrimental to the handling? what are teh consequences of longer shocks? many thanks

hello, can anyone advise me where to get a con rod kit for a silver engine RL250 beamish . have tried one suzuki dealer with no luck, and four other suppliers of pattern parts. two of the suppliers had con rods but both turned out to be the wrong part when delivered (very annoying!) somewhere in the south east of england would be best so i can drive there and see if the part is correct before i pay .(and can avoid the messing about involved in returning parts) alternatively would any body know if the TS250 or TM250 from the early 1970`s (or any other models) use the same con rod ? this would give me another option to try when looking thanks in advance for any help…

Hi all, I need some help please with assembling the forks on my Beamish. It's been quite some time since I took them apart so my memory for the position of the parts is faint, The drawing of the forks on the Beamish owners club differs from mine so i'm uncertain as to the position of all the parts. I'm hoping someone on this forum has pictures of the correct assembly for the parts in the picture I have attached. my main concern is for the position of the small springs on the damper rod. Thanks in advance. Phil.

hello, recently purchased a tatty but rideable beamish suzuki 250, have just removed the rear wheel to replace the rear sprocket and noticed that the cush drive part has been welded to the hub and also one of the wheel spacers is a piece of plastic pipe ! I am sure that the plastic spacer is a bodge but does anybody know if the welded up cush drive is a proper beamish modification or another bodge {the welding is good quality which is unusual for a lash up} Also the wrong front wheel is fitted {it has a 7 inch drum which would be great for road racing but is a bit heavy for trials} does anybody know if the correct wheel is the same as any other suzuki models {i was …

Whats the best air pressure to run in the forks of a beamish 250?

I have a1975 RL250 I reconditioned several years ago. In the process I needed a new petcock due to leaking past the on/off position, plus leaking around the petcock on/off lever. I originally found a supposed OEM petcock from Partzilla I believe it was, and it worked but the location where the gas line connected sat lower than the original and since it exited out the back the line hits the throttle cable on the carb so a pretty extreme angle on the gas line is needed, so much so that it partially kinks the gas line. Since it is threaded, and the body of the petcock can be rotated, I had just turned it to miss the throttle cable. The trouble with that is it puts the lev…

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Hi all, I have a silver engine RL250 thats using a 72 mm Wiesco piston and now needs a new little end bearing. I became all the Wiesco numbers for Piston Rings piston pin and clips from the last owner but not for the small end baering. Wiesco don´t seem to have any idea what bearing is needed so I thought I´d give it a try here :-)

I’ve noticed my bike as hairline cracks across the headstock gusset plates I know this is common but what’s the best way to repair, or can it be left alone?

Have been really pleased with the Beamish since I got it 12 months ago but over the last few events it has starting giving me signs that things were not right, the main one being after the run between sections the tickover races but one it is left to cool down for 3 -4 mins its back to normal. I started to investigate today and noticed the following, any thoughts or comments are appreciated: 1) The exhaust was blowing from the front manifold when the bike first starts up from cold. This is not around the gasket/flange but actually where the u pipe pushes into the manifold flange. Their were no springs locking the u pipe to the flange or on the other end to the main expan…

I have just rebuilt my engine (reed valve type), and am having trouble with gear selection. I can get the first four gears but it doesn't want to go into fifth, does anyone have any tips on where I might have gone wrong. I thought that I had put it together according to the diagram in the manual but perhaps not. Any ideas would be appreciated thanks.

In need of a new Coil. the old one as broke were the HT lead goes in and being a captive lead its new coil time. I have found these more modern type where I can replace the HT lead if needed, but not sure on where the wires go on them? anyone know cheers

250 Beamish needs re boring, do I stay at 250 or remove the insert liner and go back to the original manufactured size of 325. If so what else is needed to be done. What difference will be felt if I switch to the 325? Anybody got any other tips to make a Beamish as competitive as possible?

hi all whats the spares availability for 325's, i'm not after anything specific at the mo, but i'm trying to get hold of one at the moment. thanks Ben

Hi im looking for some air caps for a 79/80 Beamish 250 As you can see from the pictures, a monkey has been at mine. One has been drilled and rethreaded with a different valve. they dont leak, but i want to get them looking the same. cheers

I've read quite a bit about the poor front brake on these bikes... mine is the same. Has anyone successfully modified theirs.... lengthened the hub cam brake lever maybe? Does anyone know if the front brake & hub from another bike would fit? Regards, MG

HI CAN ANY BODY HELP ME WITH THIS PROBLEM, I AM RESTORING A BEAMISH 250 AND I CANNOT SEAM TO BE ABLE TO LOCATE SOME BUSHES,SPACERS AND PIVOT BOLT FOR THE REAR SUSPENSION, CAN ANYBODY OUT THERE HELP ME. IF I HAD THE OLD ONES I WOULD HAVE SOME MADE BUT I DONT. LEE.

Hi all, i have a 1981 black engine model and am upgrading it a bit, new shocks, footrests, chain and sprockets etc. I want to get rid of the original 'Cow horn' bars. They have a massive rise on them, my question is what sort of rise should i go for on some renthals. I am tall at 6,3... any advice greatfully accepted and see you at fort william on Friday if you are there!! Dan