Suzuki/Beamish

I have a 1980 black engine Beamish, the fork springs are getting a bit tired and I am thinking about replacing them. I was wondering if full length springs would be ok to use without the spacer at the top or do I need to try and get some the correct length and continue to use the spacer. Any advice would be most welcome, thanks

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for an RL250 with the light kit? Thanks, Redbug2

I

Hi All Going to be rebuilding the engine on my RL325 (1978) Will be needing the following Mains Big end Oil seals Gaskets Advice required as to the best places to get the parts TIA Roger

I have been look on Gasket guru for a new cylinder base gasket for my Black engine 250 which is the standard thickness gasket please

Picked up a RL250 a bit back for a future project and wondering if it would benefit from a longer header pipe? It runs very smoothly but I like a rorty engine that jumps with a slight twist of the throttle,I know that's contrary to common Trials theory but I have a SWM to ride when I need traction in adverse conditions. I had a 240 Fantic and never felt like it was too Zappy and find that type of power fun. The Zook seems to be soft down low then comes on in the mid range. Haven't had time to check the timing or compression(Feels good to kick through) It looks like every other trials bike has a longer header pipe than the Suzuki's short U-turn.

Hi all Tried to remove the shaft securing the swingarm to the frame today, no joy, seems stuck solid. I have recently purchased the bike which was restored some years ago but not used since then, the swingarm has been re-chromed so I'm supprised the retaining shaft did not come out easily ? Any thoughts and tips on removing the shaft will be most appreciated. Regards Phil.

Just removed the stanchions from the sliders of a black engine Beamish (last model) as they need re-chroming. I'm a bit confused at to what I've found, it's the first time I've worked on Suzuki forks. I removed the spring, tipped the stanchion up and out slid the damper rod assembly - surprisingly, there's no shuttle valve assembly like Betor or Marzocchi have, so I checked the manual on the owners club website and that's how they are. There's one thing I can't fathom though. In the bottom of the stanchion is what looks like a bush and it feels pretty solid, as though it is pressed in, picture below (not the best...) I've looked at the parts diagram again and I can'…

Hi Guys, I've just bought an RL250. Its 1975 i think and in the Heron Suzuki colours, and im very pleased with it. However, the front brake is appalling, I've cleaned up the shoes with emery paper, and de-greased and dremaled the drum with a wire brush. But its still really bad. can i get a new liner for the hub? any suggestions? The ball bearing is missing out of the kick start, not unusual im sure, what would be the best way forward for this? I suppose the answer may be replace the bearing, but I'm thinking the kick start will be so worn It will just fall out. thanks in advance for you help Guys

I also have amongst my stuff,a good Suzuki beamish rl325. are they not used much in twinshock trials? Cant find much/any reference on this forum either.... Any views on them anyone? great,crap,whatever??? S.M.

I have red that some parts are in short supply! What parts are we looking at?

How much gearbox oil do I need in my beamish (silver engine) The manual states 700cc & the g/b cover states 850cc?

This is my second posting on the above bike and although not trials related, the answers I received last time were helpful. Since then my grandson has been asking when the bike will be ready for him to ride! It goes at the moment but I need to fit the kill switch and I am not perfectly sure how to wire it. All the bikes I own run on points and the Suzuki has CDI. With points it is not a problem to rig up a switch because there is only one wire going to the coil. On the Suzuki there are two wires into the coil from the CDI. One is black with a white strip, the other white with a blue strip. I could try cutting either of the wires and fitting the switch but I am conce…

Anyone know where i can get the air filter for a Beamish 250 or some filter foam

any one out there who can help me im thinking of buying a suzuki beamish sidecar its a genuine one out of the factory whitlock one owner from new and registered but its been stood for a few years in a shed but it runs fine and its all there nothing is missing at all just wondering what its worth and if its a good investment or stay away from it thanks !!

does anyone know of a suitable replacement gear lever for a silver engined mk2 beamish suzuki RL250 thanks in advance tony

This was posted on our local MOTA website. Located in a suburb of Detroit. Seems like a pretty neat little machine. A bit of a unicorn here in the states. http://detroit.ebayclassifieds.com/motorcycles-scooters/whitmore-lake/1971-very-rare-alta-suzuki-trials-bike-175cc/?ad=34610599 --Biff

Im Rebuilding a black engine Beamish Suzuki and i was trying to work out the best way to clean up the fork legs, has any one got any tips please on the best way to clean them so the look a bit better ?

IM CURRENTLY REFRESHING THE ENGINE ON A MATES 325 BEAMISH. IVE SPOKEN WITH THE VERY HELPFUL STEVE PITT AT THE BEAMISH OWNERS CLUB ABOUT SOURCING AN 81.00mm PISTON. I KNOW THERE ARENT ANY AT THE MOMENT, BUT THE OLD ADAGE SAYS IF YOU DONT ASK…………!! HAS ANYONE GOT AN 81.00mm PISTON SAT IN A WORKSHOP DRAWER THEY BOUGHT YEARS AGO , JUST IN CASE AND NO LONGER NEED, OR AS AN ALTERNATIVE I COULD MAKE A SET OF 80.50mm PISTON RINGS WORK ON THE EXISTING PISTON SHORT TERM. IM ALSO A BIT CONFUSED AT THE OPTION OF THREE DIFFERENT BASE GASKETS THICKNESSES AVAILABLE FOR THAT MODEL. HOW DO I DETERMINE WHAT THICKNESS I NEED. THE ENGINE IM WORKING ON HAS THE 250 HEAD ON IT WITH THE AP…

Is it me, or is there lots of Beamishs turning up just lately?