Suzuki/Beamish

Hi, I've asked Jim awaiting reply: Any other takes on ridding oneself of the air system? Springs, caps, anyone done it? Ta

I've just acquired a solid rl250 and have begun disassembly for painting. Other than the flywheel weight that many suggest, are there any other mods that would improve the performance of this bike? I read somewhere that cutting the steering head and tucking in the front end 3-4 degrees would help the turning capabilities. Thoughts? Thank, Herman

I've been offered an old Suzuki rl 250 by a friend, it's been sitting in a barn for 17 years!!!!! yes it actually has been in a barn for that long!!! i don't want it as a serious competitive trialer just a bike that'll do it all if i want? It wants a resto really, but it runs fine it was started last week for the first time since it was parked up by the farmer.. i'm trying to find out what its worth? Its the old red and silver RL it still has all the lights and switches but the headlight looks like it seen a bit of action, the lamp is ok but the cover is all bent, he's even got the original log book off the farmer! 1 owner from new, just the farmer..! It is a bit of…

Picked up a RL250 a bit back for a future project and wondering if it would benefit from a longer header pipe? It runs very smoothly but I like a rorty engine that jumps with a slight twist of the throttle,I know that's contrary to common Trials theory but I have a SWM to ride when I need traction in adverse conditions. I had a 240 Fantic and never felt like it was too Zappy and find that type of power fun. The Zook seems to be soft down low then comes on in the mid range. Haven't had time to check the timing or compression(Feels good to kick through) It looks like every other trials bike has a longer header pipe than the Suzuki's short U-turn.

Hello all. I am having a machinist friend to manufacture some replacement bushings for the RL 250 Suzuki. I picked up a sample of a new stock item and plan to have a set made from those specs. We are planning on using bronze stock to make them. I don't know what the cost is going to be, but I thought I'd see if anyone else needed a set. This is the same guy that is going to make an aluminum swingarm for the same bike for me.

Have been really pleased with the Beamish since I got it 12 months ago but over the last few events it has starting giving me signs that things were not right, the main one being after the run between sections the tickover races but one it is left to cool down for 3 -4 mins its back to normal. I started to investigate today and noticed the following, any thoughts or comments are appreciated: 1) The exhaust was blowing from the front manifold when the bike first starts up from cold. This is not around the gasket/flange but actually where the u pipe pushes into the manifold flange. Their were no springs locking the u pipe to the flange or on the other end to the main expan…

I have the US silver engine model. Once I got this project running, I noticed a few things: 1.Bike smokes quite a bit, even at 60:1 mix of MC1. 2.Lots of engine noise. I used some rubber blocks between the head fins. Helped a little. 3.Bike took a lot of warm up time before I could shut off the choke. When I'd try to soon, it just wanted to die. I figured maybe the old carb was bad, so I got a new OKO from Mid Atlantic Trials. Same place I got my 199 carb. Bike still starts second kick and is acting the same. I pulled the head when I first got the bike and found a bad head gasket - replaced it. Piston was shiny new, but I didn't pull the cylinder to check …

Wow, hate to admit to this but I really need some help. I disassembled my RL back in the fall and made ready for seal / bearing replacements. All went as well as expected and I have the center cases back together. As I waited so long to complete, I took my time reassembling the clutch side outer case items. The small arm with the wheel - I think is called a shift drum follower? It has a tiny spring that anchors to the little stub at the 8 o'clock position of the shift drum. The bolt is a banjo type. Anyway, I simply cannot figure out how it attaches. I've looked at it as well as the schematic from the Beamish site and maybe it's my old age but I'm stuck. Anyon…

hello, can anyone advise me where to get a con rod kit for a silver engine RL250 beamish . have tried one suzuki dealer with no luck, and four other suppliers of pattern parts. two of the suppliers had con rods but both turned out to be the wrong part when delivered (very annoying!) somewhere in the south east of england would be best so i can drive there and see if the part is correct before i pay .(and can avoid the messing about involved in returning parts) alternatively would any body know if the TS250 or TM250 from the early 1970`s (or any other models) use the same con rod ? this would give me another option to try when looking thanks in advance for any help…

Can anyone advise the best gearbox oil/fluid for the RL250 Beamish? I've seen modern 80W transmission oil recommended, as well as ATF. If ATF, what specification, Dexron 3, or something more advanced? Thanks in advance.

Hi, I recently bought a 1975 Suzuki RL250. It ran but not well. I found that the main jet was plugged. After carefully cleaning it out and blowing it dry with compressed air, I reassembled the carb, gassed it up and it started easily. It runs for a while but looses power in a couple minutes and then stalls. it will not restart until it cools down. Any suggestions as to how to adjust the carb? It has a 130 main jet. I'm running modern synthetic oil at 40:1.

evening guys ive been busy with other road bikes for a while but have just picked up a late 76 early 77 beamish... i have no spark generator is kicking out voltage. so i figure cdi unit is U S or coil pack does anyone know any coil test readings but im leaning towards cdi unit....so... does anyone have any links to tests/repairs for them..? sorry for any typos im using a tiny phone at the moment

Hi Can anyone help me with information about the exhaust system on my 1980 RL250? I'm trying to find out if the main box has any sound reducing material inside or is it just an empty box? I have cut open the rear box and found evidence of some sound deadening material, so I will clean it up and re-pack it and weld it up. Regards Phil

After splitting the case to replace the crank seals, I have an extra washer! It's 17 X 33 X 1.5 mm. With a 17mm through hole, I assume it's off the transmission. In reference to fig 8 (Transmission) of the parts manual. The only washers on the parts list are Item 33 a thinner (1mm) washer and item 34 a conical washer are both present. I did not go past the bearing so missing item 16 is ruled out. I can see wear marks on the washer that would correspond to the small diameter portion of the conical washer. When things are installed per the parts manual illustration, there is no slop when installing the cir-clip on the end, and installation of this clip is not…

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for an RL250 with the light kit? Thanks, Redbug2

Hello, Im restoring a silver engine rl250 for me brother in law. It's a silver engine 74? He bought a lighting kit for it but the kit did not have a stator. Will a ts250 stator winding work with the rl250? How about coils to run the cdi? Are those the same as the ts250? regards, redbug2

My 74 RL250 was getting a bit noisy so I took the piston and cylinder off to see how things looked. The crank looks fine and I cannot feel any play in the crank or rod bearings. The piston had a crack on both sides that runs straight up from the piston pin - but the crack is tiny and doesn't go too far up the piston. I cleaned the piston and cylinder and a 0.009" feeler gauge slips in easily and a 0.010" is snug - I doubt if I could get a 0.011" gauge in without a good amount of force. The piston is the stock 70mm size. I ran a hone in the cyclinder and it is obvious there is some uneven wear as there were high and low spots as indicated by the uneven honing marks. …

I am looking for parts to my old RL250 and found a website www.rl250.com however they do not answer their phone, nor do they respond to email. Anyone know if they are still in business?

has anyone any more pics of the silver engine RL250Y with the yellow and black seat as on the later black engine mods. which followed the RL250A that was in red / black ?

Changed my RL250 which was using 40:1 mix to an RL325 which has had rebore, new piston and rings. Should I use same mix running engine in?