Suzuki/Beamish

Hi all. New to this site and a bit of a techno dummy so lets hope I can use the site okay. So I have an issue with my Suzuki Beamish RL. I have been advised the Beamish was made in two models. The RL250 and the RL325. Problem being my Suzuki Beamish has a period decal either side that looks original, that states it's an RL350. So, does anyone know if the beamish was made as a 350 please.

Hi all Does anyone on here have my first bike. 1979 Beamish Suzuki RL250 Reg No. DKY 335V. It would be nice to know what happened to it. Thank you Chris

Anyone know where i can get the air filter for a Beamish 250 or some filter foam

Hi to all the Beamish enthusiasts. I am guessing that a few of you will have uprated the carb on your beloved Beamish, just wondering what carbs / jetting options are working best on your 250. Looking forward to hearing from you Stormy Normy

Wow, hate to admit to this but I really need some help. I disassembled my RL back in the fall and made ready for seal / bearing replacements. All went as well as expected and I have the center cases back together. As I waited so long to complete, I took my time reassembling the clutch side outer case items. The small arm with the wheel - I think is called a shift drum follower? It has a tiny spring that anchors to the little stub at the 8 o'clock position of the shift drum. The bolt is a banjo type. Anyway, I simply cannot figure out how it attaches. I've looked at it as well as the schematic from the Beamish site and maybe it's my old age but I'm stuck. Anyon…

Can anyone with a black engine Beamish please tell me the size of the pilot jet they are running in both the 250 and the 325? The manual suggests that the 325 should have a pilot jet of 20 and the 250 a pilot jet of 27.5 - that doesn't make any sense to me if the larger number denotes a larger jet - would you have the smaller jet in the larger engine? I have a 250 and have just stripped the carb, the jet number is too faint to read. I also have a 325 that was originally a 250 and that has a 20 pilot jet and it is not running correstly. I would also like to know the needle clup position as counted down from the top of the needle. A concensus of what people are act…

Following 12 months of disappointment of buying what ended up being a significantly bodged Montesa 348 off of ebay and having 4 out of 6 comps as DNF, the Mont is now stripped and having a rebuild. To keep riding I am buying another bike and a very kind owner at the club allowed me to try his Beamish this weekend (try before you buy......) I absolutely loved the bike and the fact that it has finished every comp in the last year and was a dream to start, we have agreed the price (plus the fact that I smacked the rear brake pedal in the very last section on a rock and bent it made me compelled to buy it!) The bike was almost faultless but I did notice (and the owner confi…

Hi, does anyone know where (in the UK ) I can get new headstock bearing races from for a silver engined 250, it had the dynotape frame number many moons ago but that fell off about 25 years ago. Can i use taper bearings ? and does anyone know the size ? cheers Dave

when I’m riding the stand keeps coming down, think I’m catching it with my heel? Does anyone else have a problem?

Anyone know if you can get a new kickstart or if a kickstart of another bike will fit a 1973 Beamish this isnt my bike and i'm not sure the beamish models were out in 73 so it would be useful if someone could confirm as well, the owner bought it in a box and only has details from the seller. thanks

I have been unable to find the torque numbers for the cylinder base nuts or the mag flywheel nut in any of the manuals I have. Anyone have these at hand? thanks in advance

Out for a spot of Practice at Dudwood on Sunday on the Beamish 250 have a great time and learnt a few things

A mate is trying to sort out a Beamish 325 which when cold does not have a spark but when the cdi box has been left in the warm for a while has a decent spark and runs well. Take the cdi off put it outside until cold and no spark again.(he is a m/c mechanic so knows his onions) Has anyone here had a similar problem or a cure or a part number or idea of a replacement for the cdi box ??? Thanks in advance.

A friend has offered to show me his RL325 that's been sat some time. It was working when parked. Now apparently the gears won't select. He says it kicks over fine, but is stuck in neutral. Could it be anything more sinister than just sticky gummed up gears from years of sitting? Any other things to consider when looking at it? I see the chap from the owners club is a member on here.

Just found these Oldies..! South Coast - Brighton and..? Photo credit @ Derek Jones John Reynolds Cheers Chaps, Motosinge83.

does anyone know of a suitable replacement gear lever for a silver engined mk2 beamish suzuki RL250 thanks in advance tony

Did the early silver engine beamish have different brake shoes to the later black engine models?

I have a 1980 black engine Beamish, the fork springs are getting a bit tired and I am thinking about replacing them. I was wondering if full length springs would be ok to use without the spacer at the top or do I need to try and get some the correct length and continue to use the spacer. Any advice would be most welcome, thanks

As this is the next running maintainence job I need to do (to sort a slow oil leak) I am wondering if anyone who had done one before can shed light on the following: 1) I understand that it must be done with the selector shaft removed as you can not prise it out and replace the new one over the selector shaft 2) In order to withdrawal the selector shaft, I believe the clutch basket needs to come off? Is this splined or tapered and is it easy to get off, or like the montesa, a real pig that needs a heavy duty puller? 3) When reassembling is their any line up marks that need to be paid attention to to ensure all gears select OK thanks Rob

Hi, I have just acquired a 1968 Bearcat which is the ideal starting point to build a Gaunt replica! Being the latest model of the Bearcat it has the B100 frame with the TC120 dual range motor it’s perfect for the job! But I have a number of questions... Forks, These should be from the Invader 200 are they still 30mm? And looking at photos they must be a bit longer if so how much? If I can’t find any Invader forks I’ll find something suitable that looks right While we are at the front did Peter alter the head angle? Hubs These look to be smaller than the B100 or Bearcat hubs, possibly A100 or A50? Swinging Arm I know it’s about an inch longer but …