faussy

Everyone is different, and its not a requirement that your bike runs between 900-1000 rpm.I know older guys that don't even run a tickover on new bikes because they aren't clutch users, while mine is much higher than average because i hate a bike stalling when i hop. Its only a guide, have it set at what you like

Yes. Best at a lowish psi (too low and it won't seal, too high and it pops out too early) with a little soap. Don't come at me if you try it and either get frustrated at it not working or end up ripping the tube. There is more of a knack to it than using a beader. When i started doing it in the 90s i didn't realise beaders existed and put up with the slight inconvenience. Now im virtually as quick as someone else using a beader and too tight to splash out on something that will only save me a few seconds ?

I use a bicycle tube that is even less robust than the shop bought things. Got 5 years so far out of this one. My last one even had a few patches on it ?

There was definitely a raga in 04. 400 of them were made. Ive seen 280 versions back then, not sure about 250s but wouldn't rule one out. Easily identifiable by magnesium (gold coloured) crankcases and swingarm, keihin carb and ohlins shock. Unless its mint, and viewed as a collectors item, i wouldn't value it anymore than a standard 04 if you're just interested in riding it.

Im guessing the castrol is fully synthetic. It may be too good, more for a racing or mx bike, 50:1 would probably be adequate. Most trials 2t oils are semi synthetic.

What brand/type of oil? 40:1 isn't too far off, i would never go below 50:1 on an air cooled bike of that era. Even at 40:1 your bike shouldn't smoke that bad, unless its an inappropriate oil or something up with your bike (seals or clogged exhaust). Ive run fantics and bultos as high as 35:1 and they didn't smoke excessively

I was thinking it was a txt pro

Was the basket centre bolt tight?

I agree. I also think it was a sad day steel frames were no longer chrome

Is that why today we have a tubed front, that in the past went through a tubeless phase, but has since went back to tube?

They should be level. Spot of weld on the underside of the pegs where they touch the frame, then grind to get the correct height

Have you repacked your own exhaust, including the centre box?

Been using TFR for the last 20 years, diluted about 15:1. Take care not to leave it too long on bare aluminium and you'll be fine. If you have an aluminium framed bike (4rt or beta) i would probably avoid

Ditto, Id say they are made in the same factory, whoever is making them

Looks like a 2015 factory, but with a custom white painted frame... Gold triple clamps, gold head, forks and wheels are all 2015 Ill let the sherco experts answer the rest, but afaik the only real problems was with the carb diaphragm pump and some didn't run great, but i think this was more contained to the early models of the reverse tank and airbox, around 2011. If it runs ok then i guess its ok 80:1 i guess is fine if you aren't overly hard on it. If you like a lot of throttle or trail riding, id maybe try closer to 60 or 70:1. Personally i like to errr on the side of more oil, but everyone has their preference https://www.sherco.com/wp-content/uploads/manual_2015_ST.pdf

Can you put pic up? White frame is pointing to 2013, but they never had black forks or blue rims that far back, only gold

Not a 315 expert, but without knowing how well maintained it is from the previous owner, Id say just start with the general cheap things and hope you don't run across something major. Gearbox oil, wheel bearings, grease headstock bearings and regrease possibly replace rear suspension bearings if theres a lot of slop, repack silencer. \ You've probably already checked the montesa specific forum on here, if you want to ask anything specific you might have better luck there https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/forum/9-montesa/

4rt, better than any 2 stroke for green lane work and raking about. And you have the option to turn it into a free ride. Bit more expensive, but im sure theres plenty about beneath 2k

It depends what type of rider you are. If you just ride hills and generally arsing around the 300 will be fine, but if you ride trials or anything tight, the 300 may be a handful for you. I ride a 300, but im an expert rider. I sold one 300 on to a clubman and he did struggle with it. In my club even semi experts ride 250s. Im not gonna sway you one way or another, ive seen clubmen also like 300s, just to try your best to get a ride on one before you buy. Kind of hard in the current situation though, but even test riding a non GP will give you an idea Regarding reliability, i agree with collyolly. And remember every make has a weakness, montesa it's weight, beta its electronics, GG the clutch (most work great, some drag a little (something to test if you get a test ride) but are an easy enough fix by changing plate thicknesses). My test for a GG clutch is have it in neutral and let it tick over, pull the clutch in with one finger to your knuckles as you would be riding, not right into the bars, and nick it into second. The revs will drop a little but they shouldn't drop too much and the bike shouldn't start creeping forward. If it does it may need a bit of work with the plates if you're the fussy type. Most riders who aren't on the clutch all the time won't even notice this. When set up perfect they have a very light and nice clutch Other than that i cant say a single bad thing about GG, they aren't particularly weak in any other department., and IMO they have the best running engine and nicest power delivery hands down. Only person i know on here with a new GP is @heffergm, maybe he can comment on his ohlins?

Originally i thought it looked like the bart gear. As for the idler, you won't know until you rebuild it. A slightly damaged tooth on the idler gear can create a very annoying rumble/ticking when the bikes running and turns against the clutch basket.

For years ohlins were the mutts nuts. Lately reiger have been the go to shock, having recently entered the trials market. I honestly don't know, i haven't tried one of the new bikes with the ohlins. AFAIK the ohlins retails at a lower price but that doesn't necessarily mean they went to it solely for cheaper components

yes

On the above link it says theres also a weight for 125s from 2015 onwards. Trial enduro direct is John Shirt, the UK importer for GG, may be worth a phone call

Ive seen a few frames crack on 2014, 2015 models, but haven't seen anything like that after torrot took them over.

It used to be the txt with the dellorto carb and sach rear shock was the base model, and the racing/raga was the tricker bike with the keihin and reiger or olhins. Then they did away with the standard txt and the racing became the base model and gp was the tricker of the two. Don't quote me but in those years the main difference would be, racing- reiger 2way rear shock, gp-reiger 3 way (extra damping knob). GP- carbon airbox. GP- carbon reeds, and the gp has a double spark ignition system. IMO, not worth the price difference when they were new, and have always been happy with my racings. If you want you can buy the reeds for 50 quid and add them yourself. Never found the 2 way shock lacking, the carbon airbox is just bling and probably the bulk of the price difference, and ive actually seen the gp hidria ignition systems give more bother than the racings (ive had 4 racings with no ignition problems). I forget which year the gp started coming with the adjustable pressure plate on the clutch, 2018 maybe, but i think the racing got it as standard the following year, 2019. Would need to check this. Second hand, similar condition, id maybe pay 2 or 3 hundred extra if i preferred the look of the gp (personally i prefer the red frames), but thats about it. Performance wise virtually identical, just depends if you want the carbon airbox and the less common colour scheme