thall1

I’m assuming you didn’t need to prise open the stantion clamps on the yokes to slide the forks through both top and bottom yokes?... if you did then the head bearings aren’t set fully in the head stock

It might be that sherco have machined the fork mounting bores mot parallel to the steering spindle to open up the steering angle a bit?

I would suggest that the fork mounting bore on the top and bottom yokes has not been machined square and true to the outside profile?... if the outside profile had been machined square to the bored but not to the centre spindle hole then you wouldn’t have been able to slide the fork stantion through both the bottom and top yoke. It does look a bit strange though ?

I just replaced a tyre for a friend... turned out it was tubed running on a centre flange spoke rim on a tubeless tyre... can only assume that at some point the old tubeless tyre had a puncture... he didn’t ever have any issues with ripping valves out

open up the idle screw...4rt’s run at around 1800rpm... my son turn his down when he first bought it after being in a gas gas because he thought it was running too high...took a month to figure out what had gone wrong! You can run a separate 12v supply to the fuel pump... there’s a twin wire connection under the tank... this will reduce the voltage load on the electrics. If it starts ok with a separate 12v on the pump then you may want to consider a new capacitor and inspect the loom for corrosion on the earths... we had ‘black’ wire corrosion coming from the capacitor that had crept up the loom... this didn’t stop the bike starting- (that was due to a faulty Ecu) but it didn’t help!

We had an IRC on a 2011 Gasgas rim that spun the tyre on the rim with a tube fitted ... but I think at the time there was an issue with IRC not sealing/gripping on the bead so this may have contributed to issue. I guess it’ll also depend on how aggressive you ride as well. we also had a Rev3 that popped the bead so we put insulation tape around the bead on the wheel to make the tyre grip more. wheel rim was corroded as yours so as much corrosion as possible was removed with an ‘air file’ and the rim painted on the inside after cleaning. I think we used enamel paint .

That was my thought... although it seemed to better attended this time compared to last January but I could be wrong? if they do change venue then somewhere closer to Bristol would be nice... save a 3 1/2,hr car journey each way for me!

During 25th anniversary event run on Dec28th, the commentary mentioned that the event may not be at Sheffield next year?.. anyone got any further info?..will it be run at another venue or not run at all?

The front calliper pistons seals aren't immersed in fluid but it may be wise to change them... you can’t buy just the seals... it’s a new piston and seal set...the seals are ‘square’ in form but I have in the past used ‘O’ rings that work fine with new pads but as the pads wear the o rings don’t allow the pistons to creep out to take up wear in the pads.

Are you sure it’s popped back out onto the bead?.. you’ll need to find where it’s leaking. Assuming you don’t have a puncture ...there’s only three places . .. the valve, bead or spokes .if it’s the bead then make sure it’s really clean and try to blow it back out again... WD40 or similar on the tyre will help it pop out. And if possible use a compressor with the inner part of the valve removed to get more air in quicker. If it doesn’t want to pop out at all then try putting a ratchet strap around the tyre to compress the tread and force the sidewall out onto the bead. if it’s from the spokes you’ll need to remove and clean the rim tape. I expect you’ll find corrosion under the tape. If you have got some corrosion then try and remove as much as possible with sand paper or a dremel and paint over with enamel or similar to protect it... good luck!

Changing the master cylinder reservoir won’t make any difference to the clutch action ... I’m pretty sure they all use 11mm dia pistons and that’s the bit that’s does the work... as Linaway said... try ATF oil in the engine... you could also check the clutch pack thickness ... 9.75mm to 9.85mm I think and the finger height which I think is 17.5mm (I’m sure someone else can confirm the figures but it’s in the manuals) if the clutch pack is too thick you can reduce them using 320-400 grit wet and dry paper (dry) on a flat surface... it doesn’t take much to get it back within tolerance. Other than that, just make sure your getting full travel on the master cylinder with a very small amount of free play on the lever.

You could just drill the ‘old’lever holes out to suit the new bushes if there’s material left. Even if they are oval they should drill out ok provided they are clamped securely

You could just drill the holes on the lever to suit.?..

I thought the older bikes are DOT4?

You learn something new every day!... just assumed they were leather but I never checked TBH. .. apparently Alpinestsrs and others use the same ... dubbin seems to make the softer... certainly adds a shine and the water runs off and mud doesn’t stick as well so I guess it can’t do any harm

We use ‘gold label dubbin’ after most rides. It got the same consistency as vasaline... We put it on quite heavy and leave to soak in during the week..we put plenty on the stitching to stop it drying out and shrinking back slightly and letting water in.. keeps the boots nice and soft and helps protect and areas that have been scagged/worn.

Our Sidis were half or maybe a size bigger to allow for thicker socks or sealskins. it’s a case of just going to try a few different pairs on with your riding socks and go for a walk around the store to try and find the best in comfort... you’ll probably find there is someone who has had a good/bad experience with all makes..

My son and I both have Sidi boots.. probably about 2yrs old now... no issues other then I found that mine leaked water through the front rivet just behind the toe... I managed to get a dolly into the boot and tap it a bit tighter... after that they have been fine. Buckles and straps haven’t broken. These were ‘flat’ soles rather than the curved ones...

That’s what fits our 2013 & 2014 4t’s

I ran our 2013 & 2014 4t’s After washing down... after 10 mins sat at idle the fan would run for around 50-55secs then shut off for around 35-40 secs before switching on again... both bikes are similar on fan cycle times.

We have two 4t’s... 2013 & 2014.... once warm the fans run almost all the time when being ridden. The fans will cycle if left at idle but after a few cycles the fans will only switch off for a very short period of time

Yes I believe it is but I’ve never had issues leaving a few days ...

You could try taking the master cylinder piston out and pushing fluid back up the line from the bleed nipple then you’ll know you’ve got fluid in the line.. check that the two holes in the base of the reservoir are clear first. Re fit the cylinder piston with the correct free play (minimum free play possible) and fill the reservoir. As you should now have fluid up to the master cylinder with no or little air in the line just tie the lever back to bars and leave for a few days to bleed itself with the reservoir cap off. If you can tie the clutch line down so it doesn’t loop higher than the reservoir that’ll stop any air getting trapped at a high point. ive always found tying back the levers or rear brake pedal usually seems to get the last bit of air out after normal bleeding either by pushing or pulling fluid. (Rear brakes are still a pain even doing this) if it still doesn’t work fit a new master cylinder piston and clutch actuator piston seal and try again... I have found in the past that once an old system has been played with it never works again..! good luck

I file two slots opposite each other in one end of the spacer big enough to allow a suitable drift to get past and onto the inner race of the bearings...usually 10mm wide so I can use 10mm dia Ali bar to just release the pressure on the spacer so it moves easily to one side.

I know its not the same application but we blew the CDI on a outboard by giving it a quick start up prior to buying it...got it home and it didn't run... not sure if you started your bike after washing it but if you did it could well be the CDI...now I always run up so at least the fan comes on and then off before stopping it... as mentioned earlier...try borrowing one if you can. good luck