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Last weekend I was the lone trials master for the ITSA National Championships RDS 5 & 6 held at the Sipapu Ski Resort. Pits were at 8500 ft elevation to 9500ft . Very steep loop for the old bikes as I used the slopes for the loop. We had a great turn out and just a little rain. Very fun times, rocks, logs and the river was running deep this year.
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How soon we forget. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/50242-ossa-easy-start-kit-where-to-buy-in-the-uk/page-1
If they would have used a large condenser like the 4RT this might have been avoided. To canada280i, this thread is about FI and I already stated not to bash the bike further. Typical Spanish bike, released before it was ready. I loved the new ideas, and it tracks the best of all brands. Shame it did not catch on.
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You are correct, I actually loved the Ossa. But I will not bash a product that started out looking great and fell on it`s face. Would you like pages of what was wrong with the bike and why it failed to meet expectations? Starting was the shortest thing I could pick on.
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Start with new pads. The wear point is a fine margin.
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Yes, you do not need a heavy duty 428.
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Of course it`s easy, it`s AHRMA. But damn it looked fun! Nice Vid.
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First you have to find one that starts. After that they could have been a good bike, but stuck in the Gas Gas fiasco.
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No one has yet made a fuel injected trials bike worth a crap. I`ll take a carb I can fix in the pits any day.
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The stator is an issue, but normally for spark. By the way the voltage should be AC checked while running.
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Pull the flywheel cover and yank the mag up and down. Sounds like mains to me.
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Try thinner trials grips as it looks like you have something else on the bike. The shifter needs to be up about two notches.
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Well I`m setting the Itsa National At Sipapu Ski resort this weekend. Nice short drive. We have a Master class that would give the SWM a good work out. Side note the pits are at 8500ft and we go to 9500ft. Lots of pure fun!
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I meant I had no issues with the electrics. Never seen anyone disconnect electrics for a weld job if grounded properly.
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I welded the same spot with no issues. It`s held the last two years and I`m a crappy welder.
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I assume you already made the front brake mount stiffer?
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If you have plenty of free play, there are two things that you might not see. You can have the front lever bolt actually tightening while pulling the lever. Also have you pulled apart the master cylinder and verified the little port is not plugged to the reservoir? Also the piston can bind, but just slowly returns to the off position.
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Sounds like you did not leave enough play in the lever. Started locking up because it could not return fluid to the reservoir.
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I`ve worn a pair of CTI`s since `95. No worries.
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You cannot just straighten the pin, it has sheared. Now if you are a good welder, you could tack it. But the next big hit would break the links inside the shift drum.
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No, the pin is sheared. You buy the top hat which comes with a new spring zip tied in place. Once installed, you then cut the zip tie.
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I would not worry until tech inspect.
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Install the same number you remove. The whole engine is this way. There were measurements for each shaft if I remember right, so no number of shims is correct by diagram. Some bikes had 2, 3 or 4. Simple huh?
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Most people are too busy on the phone to have their own life!
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Chances are it slowly heated up during the event. I would install new pads and back off the adjustment to make sure you have some free play. You are lucky it did not catch fire.
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