feetupfun

yes it was - sorry about that- have just emptied it out

Thanks everyone for the info. Much appreciated. I now plan to put it together and do some size and geometry comparisons with a standard TY175 and will post up what I find.

The John Cane one fits neatly up in the frame under the fuel tank and works well. The electrix one also works well, but requires the coil/black box to be fitted behind the plastic sidecover and supporting it requires some thought and ingenuity to achieve. It also means the HT lead is extremely long.

No-Toil dries out and becomes not-so-sticky much quicker than normal filter oils (in my climate anyway)

It's false economy to only change the rollers. The pin and rod will also be worn if the rollers are worn, even if they look OK and someone will be having to do the whole job over again shortly. yes head gaskets are expensive, but you don't have to change the head gasket if you take the cylinder off with the head intact

maybe the points are not working? maybe the stator coil insulation has broken down? Maybe the stator coil is open circuit? maybe the HT coil has failed? maybe the killswitch wiring is shorting to earth?

why would you ever want to change just the needles and cage?

The motor ID number (M4) says 1963-1965 Sherpa N 200cc, but the cylinder head and the rest of the bike looks like M16 (MK2 Matador 250cc 1965-1967). The MK2 Matador was developed from the Sherpa N, so this bike may be a very early Mk 2 Matador. I suggest you fit an air filter before starting the motor, and get ready to stop it quickly if any of the motor bearings get noisy

Before there was "air filter" oil people used car engine oil or two stroke premix oil on foam air filters. It will work fine if you oil the filter the night before, or on the day of the ride. Not long after that though it migrates downwards, making a bit of a mess in the filter casing, and leaving the top section dry. I use a proper air filter oil mainly so I can service the air filter well in advance of the ride when I have the time available.

A riding friend had a tubeless rear rim fitted recently no problems to his TY250D (and also one to his Bultaco M198). I don't know if the rims came undrilled, or if the angle can be changed, or if the angle was fine as it came, but I do know his wheels are fine. The rims used are the type with the rubber wedge seal ring, which means that the spoke length will be different to standard Yamaha spokes. If the spoke angle is wrong the spokes have a curve in them that looks terrible and are more prone to breakage than if the nipples are at the right angle.

Reversing would be interesting

baldilocks the system OSSA uses injects the fuel in the linet tract. It is called throttle body injection. Same principle as on a Honda Montesa 4RT. Some modern cars and modern outboard motors have direct injection of petrol, where the injector sprays petrol into the combustion chamber. About why the OSSA still have an inlet port and transfer ports, is because that is how the air and fuel gets to the combustion chamber. Even if it had direct injection, the inlet port and transfer ports are needed to get the air in.

They are all Honda parts because Honda is an owner of Montesa. Maybe you are asking what countries are the various parts made in?

Yes, but first I need to know which parts of the frame I should be concerned about!

I've recently bought an unused SM Highboy TY175 frame kit. I am in the process of puting it together to ride. I have have never seen another one and am trying to learn all I can about it. The frame looks remarkably similar or identical to a Whitehawk TY175, but it has a fibreglass one-piece SM seat/tank unit rather than the Whitehawk setup. Can anyone give me some leads or info about this bike? All I have heard so far is that they have a tendency to crack the front frame tubes and that the frame was probably made by Dave Cane. All suggestions welcome thankyou photos here http://www.trials.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=7408

The important things to note are It is very easy to damage the gear teeth if you use a puller that pulls on the teeth The gear is usually very tightly attached to the taper

The early 5 speed casing is not the same as the 4 speed casing because the 4 speed has a large indentation for access to the bottom engine mounting bolt and the five speed casing does not. I don't know what it is like where you live, but here the cover that suits your motor is quite commonly available, probably because they were also fitted to the most popular (early to mid 1970s) Alpina models, which are not popular nowadays (compared with Sherpa Ts and Pursangs) so there are lots of Alpina motor parts available. I'm pretty sure you could buy one from any of the Bultaco parts suppliers. The later type (1975 on) has a different shape to yours internally and I suspect would not fit over your crankshaft flywheel

How much riding did it take to break those frames? I'm trying to decide if I should do some reinforcement before it gets replated.

What other help do you need?

Problem sound more like carby to me (maybe pilot jet blocked) Depends what you mean by proper Sherpa conversion Sprockets available from Bultaco parts suppliers in Spain, the USA, UK and Australia and probably many other places. One supplier in the USA is located in New York State and I'm sure of you google Bultaco Parts you will find them Your 115 Alpina is quite removed from the 1974 Sherpa T in design. The first model Alpina is much closer to being a Sherpa T than yours. At the bare minium you need Sherpa T triple clamps of the type to suit your fork tops to get the steering to work. Alpina gearbox is OK for trials if you get a big enough rear sprocket, but top speed will be low. Your brake hubs are heavy compared with Sherpa T and the tank is bulky. It all depends how good you want it to be for trials. The VIN codes just say it is a M115 Alpina which means it is the second generation of Alpina and is a 250cc. Your codes do match - PB means frame number and PM means motor number

The reason bars are made a bit wider than the average person likes is because they want to sell as many as possible. If they made them to suit the average rider, then people like me (with long arms) would need to buy something else. You can easily shorten bars but lengthening is not as easy

The design of a motorbike gearbox is such that any clutch drag will load up the gear dogs when the bike is stationary. It is impossible to prevent clutch drag completely but it can be minimised. The important things for minimising drag are: The steel plates are flat The steel plates are rough The oil is the right viscosity The disengagement travel is sufficient The springs all have the same rate and preload (the pressure plate stays flat as it moves out) The fingers have smooth edges The hub has smooth splines When you are moving the shift lever, do it in a way that you can control how far you move it. I often use my hand to find neutral so I can control the movement of the shifter better.

You won't like the steering so much when the front tyre hits the exhaust pipe or the frame tubes every time you load up the front end

The engine design, being Yamaha is very sound, but that may not be the most important thing in a bike that is now 19 years old. How it has been maintained can mean it might be fine or it might be knackered

If you do a search on these forums you should find my posting showing the construction of a puller for the primary gear The sprocket is easily removed using a cutting disc in a 100mm angle grinder The cylinder nuts sometimes need to be drilled away to get the cylinder off. Heating/cooling and leaving them to soak for a while with a good nut release liquid may avoid the need to drill the nuts/studs away The subject of working on 348 motors has been covered many times on these forums so you should have plenty of guidance by the time you have read previous correspondence. There is another thing with Montesa motors to remember. The side float for the crankshaft is managed with shims inside the crank seal carriers. A common mistake has people bending their crankshafts due to setting them up with negative float during reassembly. Standard gasket thickness is 0.5mm for seal carriers and gasket between crankcase halves Please keep us up to date with how you go with the motor. Disassembly order: Exhaust off Leave motor in frame Sprocket off Head off Loosening agent on cylinder nuts Oils out of both compartments Kickstart off Magneto cover off Ignition off Carby off Shifter off Primary drive cover off Primary gear nut loosened Clutch off Gear shift mechanism off Primary gear off Loosen crank case screws Undo cylinder nuts Take cylinder off Remove piston Take motor out of frame Separate case halves Remove bearings from near the weld repair