Twinshock

HI, I've cleaned the carb and freed the slide which was sticking. Spark looks strong but appears to be flooding as its wet when i pull it out. It wasnt running well before i cleaned the carb, it seemed to kick back a bit and would start but only for a moment. I was thinking the woodruff key may have sheared. Any advice welcome.

I need to replace my rear mudguard on my late model MAR, the one with the angles dampers, I am seeking an original or a suitable replacement without resrting to a typical mudguard. If there is any onfo on whom can supply or sell me one, please. Thanks Mark

Ty 80 red frame numbers on frame and engine 451-406876 dose any one know the age

Hi , can someone measure their side stand , the foot pegs have been lowered on my 348 , so looking to fit a universal one thanks

Can anyone please help me try and locate parts for my cmt 250hiro mk3.Just starting to restore her and I’m finding it hard to get parts.

I have a little slice of land with some good riding potential and want to make my B25 really quiet with minimal loss of low/mid power. I started to build a glass packed silencer for behind the seat stay tube (for stock header) and now see resonators being used before muffler. I would like to hear something about your experiences. I can bend and splice tubes so building from scratch is no problem and I would rather get this done before paint, Let me (not) hear what you have! Thanks, Frank Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I scored a BSA Victor with a B250 motor and figured I would build a trials bike out of it. I brought the head angle in, brought down the upper shock mounts etc. i am up to the point to set steering stops. My forks (old betor) have 70mm offset and my tank is really narrow. Would 90* be a good point to set stops? I can make thicker bumpers later. thanks. Frank

How far are you allowed to mod a twin shock before it is classed as a special . Has anyone be banned, and what with. PS not talking pre 65 its just bonkers.

I made the below post a couple weeks ago and didn't get any replies. So, perhaps someone could chime-in on this follow-on question I have. A friend of mine rode Dalesman trials bikes (with PUCH motor) back in the early 1970s. He told me all three of his bikes he had (with the PUCH) all "lost" first gear and that it is nearly impossible/very difficult to fix; I assume what's happening is that the first gear teeth break off the spline. He tells me this is a very common problem with the PUCH 125cc motors in the trials bikes. Besides not riding the bike, does anyone have a suggestion that could reduce the chances from this happening? I was thinking of pr…

So, my 349's front drum brake is a bit of an issue - never caused problems in the UK but it's a bit of a liability here when you can have long steep descents that go on and on. Basically, although it's clean and the shoes have lots of decent looking material left on them there's no bite (more of a gentle slowing suggestion), and the lever action feels super spongy despite a new cable. Before I think about getting new shoes, are there any tricks I can try to wake it up again?

I know it’s been done before ... but an old italjet 100t frame, new 144cc engine ....£600 all in not a bad result !!

I just did a top end rebuild on my '74 TY250 and it is running great. Wanting to make sure all of my settings are correct, I checked my original Yamaha 1974 TY250 service manual (Copyright 1974) for the spark plug gap for the NGK B-7ES. In the specs section, page 4, it says 0.4 - 0.5mm But on page 29 it provides 0.5 - 0.6mm as the plug setting. Trail & TrialsUK sells the B-7ES plug with the notation 0.3 - 0.4 mm plug gap for a points ignition, which I have. A google search did not provide me with any other sources. What say you, and what's the source of your info? Thanks

Recently acquired a 1983 CanAm 320t / Armstrong-CCM 320t, (this is a Hiro engine bike) which I hope use for twin shock events next year. I need some parts as listed below, any help locating is appreciated Front and rear brake shoes Fork seals Front and rear sprockets Engine seal kit Gasket set Air filter Clutch, front brake and throttle cables

Hi All, I would like to replace what I believe is the original 43 yo needle and needle jet in my KT, I have found a NOS needle (5D1/part#16009-066) on ebay but cannot find a needle jet (series 172 O/8 or maybe 0/8) part #16017-087, hard to tell if it's a "O" or "0". I can see from various Mikuni websites that the outer dimensions of the readily available series 182 needle jet are the same as the Kwaka's series 172 jet, but I don't know if the internal dimensions the same. IE: Does series 172 O/8 or 0/8 = series 182 O/8 ? I also realise that if I find a modern day Mikuni Needle Jet that matches the old version that I will also need to upgrade the MJ to a newer …

Can anyone remember who made that Bantam engined bike that used the frame as the exhaust pipe? Probably in the late Sixties.

Hi I am looking for some original black VF mudguards in good second hand condition. My Father had a trials special in the 1970's, and He had four inch ones up front and looks like five and a half at the back. We still have the original mudguards, the front might still be useable, but the rear one needs replaced. I know these have been out of production for a long time so not the easiest to get. Any help will be very appreciated.

Hello Gents, I have a '74 TY250 in good running condition. I am in the process of going to pre-mix with it, and therefore removing the autolube pump. I pulled the pump today, and the pump drive shaft came out with it (see attached picture). So, it seems that all I need to do now is attach a block-off plate (I've studied this procedure, and I will be fabricating one) on the case, am I correct? Or do I necessarily need to pull off the engine side case and remove other bits, such as a gear, which was suggested in a previous posting. Not sure what gear that would be, although that member (Tony 76) had a '76 TY250, which appears to be configured diffe…

I need to paint two Cota 247 bodies. I have done it in the past but results were mixed. I want to do this right and finish off with a very hard, fuel proof, KBS Diamond clear coat. But before I get their I need to use the right pre-coat and top coat. I would appreciate suggestions for both pre-coat that will give me a well attached base that I can sand to a good finish and then a sound top coat.

Hi, I'd be grateful for a lead to a bike orientated welder to put modern type footrests on a Sherpa in Scotland. Central belt or North east Scotland would be most convenient.

Hi, Has anyone out there been able to rebuid the stock (Showa) shocks on a TLR250 ?? I have bought some NJB Trick Shocks which are great, BUT the longest I could buy were still a bit shorter than the stock lenght of the TLR shocks. This has upset the steering geometry & my bike now steers like a bus. I have dismantled my stock TLR shocks as much as I'm capable of; does anybody know if you can buy seals? Shaft is 12.5mm. It looks like the cap will spin off the shock body with a special tool. Thanks, Gary B.