Pre-65 Bikes

Hi all. I intend to build a pre 65 trials bike using a 1959 Francis Barnett frame I have the original wheels and was going to use the original hubs but they are iron (heavy) and a bit bit clapped generally. Does anyone know where I can some small diameter alloy full width hubs? I saw some on a Cotton ( I think ) on this forum and they were lovely. I have been Googling for hours now and just keep going round in circles with no result. Any help would be appreciated.

what is the ultimate pre65 bike? bsa etc

Hi all, I only have 2 unfinished projects in the garage at the moment so I am thinking about another one!!!!! I have a pile of bits and was thinking of throwing them together. I have an early Greeves frame ('59 I think) from the essex twin and was thinking of using a C15 engine I have spare. I don't like the Greeves forks so am considering putting some modified 3ta forks on that I have. Do you think it will be any good? what do you think of Bitsa's / hybrid's? Any opinions welcome. Steve.

see a few nice old bikes for sale locally, what sort of money would it make in the UK ? http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/mcy/3795654394.html

Have aquired a Triumph Cub trials bike. Engine is 1958 distributor top mounted. Can anyone suggest modifications to make the bike a bit more competitive for entering pre-65 events. Bike has decent forks and alloy rims at present, but standard shocks. Thanks in advance

my old tiger cub snatching in 3rd gear rest all find so stripped gearbox down found the inner layshaft bush worn so I ordered one I would need ream new bush any body know size of reamer need cant used adjustable as doing in insult I am getting blind bush puller from ebay to old one out

I notice from previous posts some people are using 'Sammy Miller' Oil tank braced struts, which I assume neccesitate the alloy petrol tank. Does this make the the bike a oil in frame type and not legible for Scottish Pre-65? If it is acceptable, is this beneficial to the side alloy tank. Any comments. What forks are you people using on your bikes, Pre-65 only.

Have a tiger cub trials with standard shocks, swingarm and distributor type ignition. The bike has alloy rims and enfield forks (i Think) Can anyone suggest alternative shocks, swingarm,ignition. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Hi all, The old boy wants me to help him sell his Tiger Cub, or at least see what it's worth. I'll have a piccy or two soon, but since I know diddly squat about pre-65 trials bikes, I thought I'd post here. What are these things worth?, and where's the best place to try and sell it. Here's the spec. 1962 Tiger Cub Sport, partially converted to Trials - i.e. it has a single seat, trials bars, trials alloy mudguards. Has 20" wheels front and back, have new 18" rear and 21" front tyres. Original engine and frame. Any help appreciated. Ian.

Am needing some help/advice. Have bought a 1961 T20 and recently topped up the primary chain case with oil, on the next run found it had leaked out onto the drive sprocket. I'd put in red ATF, so the leak was definitely from the primary chain case. I've not had a T20 engine apart, but I know that on the Triumph 500 and 650's there is an oil seal set into the back plate behind the clutch assembly. I can see that this engine doesn't have a removeable back plate, can someone point me in the right direction, is there an oil seal on the inboard side of the primary chain case and is it accessible once the clutch has been removed, the Haynes manual is pretty vague. Thanks.

Should the chain case of my Cub be completely devoid of oil? The bike was to be put through the workshop before it was delivered to me so it should be right as far as oils are concerned but when I removed the chain case drain last night nothing came out. I then removed the side case and it was totally dry in there.... There is no gasket either so I assume this must be right but it seems odd to me. It has PVL ignition. I was a little bit alarmed to find that there was only 50ml of oil in the gearbox and have now changed that to 200cc of EP90. So far I have only run it around my drive for 20 minutes or so in total but I don't want to run it again until I know that eve…

Before I explain this I should say that I am far from being a mechanic; I will service my bikes, changing oils and filters etc. and I'm happy to tinker with frames and suspension and the like but the hot oily bit in the middle and especially electrics has me bamboozled! Right, the Hardy Cub I bought about 6 weeks ago I have only ever ridden on my land and it has always started first or second kick and has run perfectly. I was due to enter my first Pre 65 trial today at Sowerby Bridge so yesterday I fired her up and had a few minutes tight turning on the drive. After only about 3 or 4 minutes it seemed to cough a bit when I went to lift the front wheel, like it missed sli…

Does anyone have the part number (or sizes) of the taper roller bearings for converting the tiger cub / Bantam headstocks?

Hi, My friend Walter bought a Tiger Cub 200 with the old (original) carb, which does not seem to run well. He would like to mount a new but Pre65 (Scottish) eligible carb, maybe an Amal 622. What do you recommend? Where can I order one already jetted for a 200cc Cub? Plus manifold. What about the heat protection, distance to the cylinder? Otherwise, what about a new Oko 22 flatsilde for clubtrials? Which jetting there? Thanks for some hints. Patrick from Switzerland

After stripping and checking my cub engine I was disappointed to find I had much the same running problems with not revving past 1/3 throttle and sooting up plugs on reassembly. Convinced I had a problem with my new 20mm Dellorto carb, I tried a friends 22mm Dellorto carb (from his 250 Serco Cub). This appeared to work much better. The engine revved pretty cleanly and the plug even appeared to go from black to straw colour! I must admit we didn't do an extended test due to time constraints but the bike was vastly improved. Bob at UPB kindly exchanged my carb for the larger one. The only difference is that my new 22mm carb has a 100 main jet and the main j…

I'm about to start doing my cub engine and will opt for an electronic ignition. Does anyone know where I can get the pillars welded for a PVL or HPI? While I'm at it, the bike was my old mans and he was going to do the window mod to access the drive sprocket. I believe Ray Small did this mod. If he still operating?

Rode the cub for only the 2nd time today but one of the main problems is the tyre to chain clearance, The s/arm has been lengthend & widened on the right but the left side is standard the clearance is very tight and i have extended the c/gaurd the stop mud being picked up on the chain and that worked but mud is getting between the c/guard and tyre and forceing it over to rub against the chain. I know you can space the engine over 5/6mm to get the chain away from the tyre or is it better to get another s/arm? (miller or Mcdonald) or get mine alterd more? Interested to hear how you guys have got round this problem. This is Midlands mud! dont suppose up north its such a …

I am considering one of these for my Triumph Cub, http://www.armac-design.com/Armac_Design/Clutch_Lightener.html Has anyone tried one, what was it like to fit, has it brought about an improvement to the clutch operation.

Hi Looking to upgrade clutch , any recomendations ? Basket is old and worn , metal plates look rough , friction plates not too bad I have new springs and Almac mechanisim fitted. Keeps slipping , adjusted it as per instructions on this site , no luck ! Plan is to fit new basket and both sets of plates. What is best options Thanks

Hello, I wanted to know the correct procedure for adjusting the clutch on my 1958 Tiger Cub. In a previous post on this forum, I found the following: Release the cable at the handlebar lever Turn the central adjuster in the pressure plate clockwise gently until I feel the clutch arm touch the outer cover. Turn the central adjuster 1/2 turn anti clockwise then tighten the lock nut. This gives around 1/2mm free play. Re fit the cable at the handlebar lever and adjust to suit - again a little bit of slack. I then only tighten the 3 clutch springs enough for their heads to clear the inside of the primary cover, but I check tha…