Pre-65 Bikes
1,447 topics in this forum
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Hi all. I have a very non-trick Cub and no immediate desire to make it super competitive, because my riding isn't anyway. It would be fun, however, for the brakes to make a noticeable difference to the speed of the bike. What can be done, retaining the standard hubs, to improve matters. I'm really not planning to replace or rebuild the wheels in the near future. Cheers
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Having recently fitted a new 22mm Amal concentric carb to my cub, to try to cure low rev stalling in sections I am still having problems curing a flat spot which happens if i snap open the throttle from idle. i called Surrey Cycles for advice they suggested fitting a brass slide with a bigger cutaway which i fitted today. i took the Cub for a run on road to warm it up and then tried to trickle along at idle occasionally bliping the trottle to lighten the front flat spot is still there - again only if the throttle is snapped open, if the throttle is opened slower it revs cleanly all the way through the range. Do you think this may be an ignition problem, I am using a Boye…
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here you go a shot of a pre war Panther Stroud. I do like the holes on the mudguard stays. This is taken at the factory in Cleckheaton in 1946
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I'm not sure whether the 2nd and 3rd gears on my bantam engine have already been swopped over. If you want to lower the gearing on a transmission then you go for less teeth on the driving end and more on the driven end. So, in the gearbox, am I right in assuming I should end up with the 22 teeth cog on the output shaft, and 21 on the other shaft ?
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Hi there Simple question - what's the easiest was to wire a kill button my my Sprite 250 (Villiers 32A engine ) ? - currently nothing at all fitted cheers John
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A letter has been sent out with regulations for the next events in the above series. Its from the ACU Trials and Enduro Commitee. Basically it says a protest has been received regarding eligibility of certain bikes which have been competing in the series. It goes on to say that at future events there will be strict machine examination for compliance with the regulations especially in regard to class eligibility. Sounds like a good idea, although a shame if things have been allowed to get out of hand in the first place. Maybe it will encourage more to have a ride in this excellent series.
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hi. does anyone where to get or how to make the swinging arm bigger to fit a bigger rim and tyre is it possible to put a c15 swinging arm on. doing this do you have to put the c15 sub frame on also . thanks charlie
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My B40 has a bit of an appetite for plugs, tried different makes with little discernable difference. Also use different carbs, Amal for those where you have to, and Kehin the rest of the time. Burns a bit of oil so plug gets black anyway and difficult to get a proper picture. Runs a ticks over fine (particularly with Kehin) then develops a slight misfire before plug gives up completely. New plug and away she goes. Have heard this isn't unique to my bike. Any ideas ? Thanks Ross
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Hello all, Does anyone know if the 1949 Norton 500T (reg. LLG644) has ever been listed as used in Trials? Cheers, Ken
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Guys got decision to make Looking for a "NEW" bike Thinking of a Triumph twin well modified a Rigid ajs/Matchless Or a Ariel What would be the best for "Modern trials sections yet stiil Scottish pre 65 acceptable Looking forward to your thoughts Marty D
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Is it worth converting to Taper Roller or is cup and cone sufficient?..If taper roller is worth the hassle, where can i get them?
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Hi, Im searching for an Amal MK1 supplier with experience of P65. The mail to Surrey Cycles bounced back, I might not have the correct address.. Cheers
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hello! just thought i would share a picture of my bsa b40. been in my family for 20 years and i know 2 of the previous owners. just got it back from having some essential modifications. see if you can spot the obvious ones! I would love to start doing some 'miller' rounds or perhaps traditional trials rounds, but need to register it........... any pointers will be very much appreciated. cheers
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I am looking at using an AMAL concentric on a C15. Overall the carb looks OK. The slide has no visible uneven wear but it is a loose fit in the carb body. It probably has close to 1/6" movement when pushed back and forth, front to back. Is this normal for a 376 carb? If not normal, can I just replace the slide? What is the carb body made of? It is heavy like cast iron. Correction...this is a mono block. The slide is light like aluminum.
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Hi,I have recently acquired my Uncles 1956 Ariel HT5 which he used in the late fifties and early sixties,as far as I can tell the bike has been unused/untouched since 1962. I would like to restore the bike but do not have much Knowledge of older bikes (magnetos etc.) and was just wondering if there is anyone local to me who could offer any advice. I will have to progress quite slowly with it as I do not have loads of money to throw at it,I am also unsure whether to try to return it to original spec.or just to restore to the spec,he used the bike in (seems to have several 'homebrewed'modifications).Any advice would be welcome.I am located near Leeds.
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held in derbyshire last sunday. 1st east midlands-62 marks lost.2nd south eastern-132 marks lost.3rd yorkshire-134 marks lost.it was a good tough trial with no shortage of big rocks!!
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This is my first time on the site I have been advised that someone here might be able to help me out. I have bought a James K7T and I am in the middle of restoration. I am trying to find out if this is some kind of works machine or a standard K7T. The front forks yokes have streangtheners welded in,it has taper roller bearings in the steering head, the frame has a diagonal stiffener at the front it also has diagonal stiffeners running from the top of the rear shocks down to a couple of very strong footrest plates. These diagonals are also bolted to the swing arm pivot. The engine is offset in the frame over to the left by 3/4 inch and the left arm on the swinging arm i…
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