SWM

I've just become the owner of a rather sad and neglected TL320. (re-living my youth having last owned one in approx 1984) First of many questions to come - can anybody tell me the correct length of the rear shocks. Thanks Ross

Hi Guys, I thought you might like to see my recently finished project. This started off as a box of bits on ebay for not much money at all and now we have what could be a reasonably competitive bike that stands me at less than a third of the price I recently sold my BSA trials bike for. Clearly this is why twinshock trials is becoming more popular! For more photos of the build check out www.classicrider444.com

I have some problems getting my carb / engine adjusted proper, I have not so much experience with the SWM and with the standard setup of the bike. When I got the bike it runned poor (coming from the alpes), the bike runned good in the middle but poor between idle and and mid throttel. Any fiddling at the air screw did not really help. I then changed the main jet to 100 now got good low to mid throttle but the bike is going lean, I believe. Here a pic of the plug after 20 min to half hour of trail riding, (not trials riding), engine got quite hot I believe: I adjusted the air screw slightly richer as I di not had any jets with me and went on with trials riding, it w…

Was at a classic trial yesterday and I noticed that some 2 strokes 'four stroke' at idle and some don't. My TL320 SWM always four strokes at idle, is this usual? cheers guys

Was watching the clip TooFastTim posted on the Ventoux Trial Classic 2011,(very good it was to) all the SWM's appeared to have Betor forks, are they so much better ?

after some investigation it seems that not all Jumbo's have a Reed Valve engine, rather than the 280 Disc Valve. However it seems that there is a No-Reed Valve version also. The Reed Valve Block was only fitted on bikes with engine serial number upto 178597, after that you got a blanking plate. Recent performance comparison's with my 280TL (currently in Gavin's tuning shop, ie my neighbours workshop) have got me lusting after a Reed Block, which are now not available from Rotax. It pulls well without, but is missing some of the 'rush' I'd expect and can be quite slow to get on the power (this is also probably due to the slooow action throttle). I need to do some furthe…

Hi all,new to this site and hope somebody can help. have a 1981/82 swm 240 whose spark keeps disappearing,have done the usual points condenser and stator coil behind flywheel,ignition coil and all associated wiring replaced with new items. the engine has had a few mods ported ,bored to 280cc barrel jacked and squish band altered to suit.flywheel skimmed as well so i am wondering if this is where the problem lies, if it is loosing its magnetism. has any one else had this problem? noted somebody has fitted an electronic ignition system to there swm(in this forum)does anybody have any more info on this?? also is the aprilia climber rotax engine electronic ignition…

Hi guys, just a quick hi, not been around for a while....my fleet of Gixers, other roadbikes, new to me Firestorm, track day car & my love of track days at Snetterton has kept me busy from realising my dream as a World Trials 'Chump'. OK, I dug Speedy out of her hibernation and couldn't free off the clutch, no matter what I did. Next weekend tried again and finally got her to free off but with terrible clutch drag. So yesterday (these things take time!) I stripped the clutch down and my gearbox oil was contaminated with water (again) looking for all purposes like she had done a head gasket - as if watercooled - she was that bad. See…

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250772791773&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123 Is the price realistic ?

Having recently made a typical barn find, a ´81 TL320, the need for magnesium repair is very obvious. I have done it before and I have the equipment, but when looking at the transmission case I and other parts, I still hesitate. This is not the best castings I have seen and after a long life soaked in oil, it will take some hours of cleaning, blasting, degreasing, grinding and so on before I even order the rods and take my TIG welder out. For example, state of the damage on the transmission side include sveral cracks, holes and worn out threads to deal with, previously "fixed" with bad epoxy and thick paint several years ago, making the welding a process in several steps …

Hello I need buy a news shocks for my tl? which manufacturer recommendation : njb, magicals, hagon?

Anyone know what number oil seal is used for the SWM Kickstart shaft? Mine is leaking, and I'd like to get it locally if possible.

I have just replaced the clutch plates in my 1982 SWM 320 with some new surflex plates. I am using 6 friction plates and 7 metal plates and have put all six medium springs back in the clutch basket. I am using ATF in the gearbox. However I need some help, the clutch is slipping like mad, even in 2nd gear and I can't figure out why. I must admit I was confused as to how many plates I should use as I have numerous clutch diagrams showing anywhere between 5 and 7 friction plates. Engaging the gears is really smooth with the new plates installed so what have I done wrong? Any help is appreciated. Cheers Chris

I have given up trying to find an italics style metal tank badge, so I had this one made up. Should last longer than stickers !

My TL320 was running great one day, and the next, it wouldn't start. I suspected a bad condensor, since they tend to die suddenly. So I installed a new condensor, and new points as long I was already inside the flywheel. Sadly, still no spark. So I'm down to either a stator that produces no power, or a bad coil. Presumably, I should be able to kick the bike over with a meter attached to the blue wire that feeds the coil, and measure (pulsating) power there. right? If there is no power, then I have a bad stator (or a shorted/ broken wire) If I have power there, but still no spark, then my coil is bad, correct? Thanks for all the help, gang! I'm looking forward to some…

Hi folks Rode my newly acquired 280 yesterday. I think its an 80 or 81 model. Black frame with sumpguard and Marzocchi forks. Can you answer some questions How much oil and what grade for the forks ? Pre mix 50:1 ? What oil for gearbox ? Bike has dellorto carb which I am about to clean , any ideas on std jet sizes and needle for uk ? Cheers

Don't have any history for this engine, but it starts and runs well. Really nice for approx the first 1/3, but isn't keen to keep going. I don't think it's carburation as it runs so well at the bottom. I'm going to check the timing first. It's had a new plug with no difference. How about disc valve timing ? The engine originally was from an Aprilia, but is running with a SWM air box and exhaust. Don't thing either are part of the problem ? Also don't think/hope that's it electrical, unless anyone has had similar experiences. Thanks in advance. Ross

SWM 320 Jumbo something a little bit different Gear lever coming from Italy then its finished

Noticed the brake lever arm being a little reluctant coming off when I was practicing on Sunday....did the usual 'remove the dipstick from the van and dribble a tad of oil around the arm desperatation trick'....its bad maintainance on my part, no excuse. The more keen eyed would have noticed two dipsticks in my van on Sunday, myself being the other. The old girl since being rebuilt 2 years ago (?), has only had the carb cleaned once and the gearbox oil dropped 5 or 6 times, in that time she has lead an 'on and off' life as my enthusiasm has gone from peaks to troughs...I'd rather lay on a Norfolk beach than do a trial in the summer and watch my 5 year enjoying herself…

Hi All, I just bought a 1982 TL320, and would like to change the fluids. I searched the web, but wasn't able to find the info. So the question is, how much oil for the gearbox; and how much oil for the Betor forks? Thanks.