Suzuki/Beamish

What sprocket sizes would you recommend for trials? My bike has 11x43 fitted, but it feels a bit too quick for me in first gear at its lowest revs... I'd like the bike to go slower when things are getting difficult. I'm a complete novice on a trials bike.

I've read quite a bit about the poor front brake on these bikes... mine is the same. Has anyone successfully modified theirs.... lengthened the hub cam brake lever maybe? Does anyone know if the front brake & hub from another bike would fit? Regards, MG

Just got this Suzuki rl250 trials bike, from what i understand it is a 1976 model, the bike has a sound engine and no nasty suprises, only problem i am having is with the front brake, no matter how i adjust the brake it seems to slip under pressure, the shoes seem fine but i have heard the front brakes on these were not great anyway.

Hi. My mate has recently restored a DR400S, he has rebuilt everything and it is pretty much n mint condition. He's offering to sell it to me. I've been trying to judge value, but there don't seem to be any restored ones for sale for me to guide a price. He's not going to make any money for the 300 hours he has worked on it, just wants his costs back so he can buy something else to restore... Any one got some idea of a price guide, I've searched the internet but i've been unable to find anything. Thanks.. Gary

Hi to all the Beamish enthusiasts. I am guessing that a few of you will have uprated the carb on your beloved Beamish, just wondering what carbs / jetting options are working best on your 250. Looking forward to hearing from you Stormy Normy

This was posted on our local MOTA website. Located in a suburb of Detroit. Seems like a pretty neat little machine. A bit of a unicorn here in the states. http://detroit.ebayclassifieds.com/motorcycles-scooters/whitmore-lake/1971-very-rare-alta-suzuki-trials-bike-175cc/?ad=34610599 --Biff

In my part of the world, there are no Whitlock frames or Beamish Suzukis to be had. My dentist who happens to be the best dentist I have ever seen, has commisioned me to build a custom Suzuki special. Here's what I've come up with so far. I will be finishing up the front skid plate bracket arrangement, doing footpeg mounts in the proper location and side panels, before stripping it down to finish all the welding, and paint it polish it etc. I plan to paint the frame silver, and do a two tone paint job on the tank, in the original pattern. Considering a nice burgundy metallic on silver for the tank, with polished alloy side panels. I will be soda blasting the entire eng…

I would like to convert the back wheel on my Beamish to tubeless. Has anyone come across a 36 hole tubeless rear rim. Don't mind if its the thick rubber band type that seals the spokes or the later flanged type. New or decent second hand would be fine Thanks

Just removed the stanchions from the sliders of a black engine Beamish (last model) as they need re-chroming. I'm a bit confused at to what I've found, it's the first time I've worked on Suzuki forks. I removed the spring, tipped the stanchion up and out slid the damper rod assembly - surprisingly, there's no shuttle valve assembly like Betor or Marzocchi have, so I checked the manual on the owners club website and that's how they are. There's one thing I can't fathom though. In the bottom of the stanchion is what looks like a bush and it feels pretty solid, as though it is pressed in, picture below (not the best...) I've looked at the parts diagram again and I can'…

I've just acquired a solid rl250 and have begun disassembly for painting. Other than the flywheel weight that many suggest, are there any other mods that would improve the performance of this bike? I read somewhere that cutting the steering head and tucking in the front end 3-4 degrees would help the turning capabilities. Thoughts? Thank, Herman

Hey guys, My dad purchased a Suzuki B120 trials off ebay that was listed as being Gaunt, but he doesnt think it actually was. Is there anyway of telling? thanks Jack

Funny how many rare bikes turn up on ebay…! £2000+ for spares / repairs http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-RL325-BEAMISH-A-PROPER-BEAMISH-CLASSIC-VINTAGE-TWIN-SHOCK-TRIALS-/141068454925

Did the early silver engine beamish have different brake shoes to the later black engine models?

Have been really pleased with the Beamish since I got it 12 months ago but over the last few events it has starting giving me signs that things were not right, the main one being after the run between sections the tickover races but one it is left to cool down for 3 -4 mins its back to normal. I started to investigate today and noticed the following, any thoughts or comments are appreciated: 1) The exhaust was blowing from the front manifold when the bike first starts up from cold. This is not around the gasket/flange but actually where the u pipe pushes into the manifold flange. Their were no springs locking the u pipe to the flange or on the other end to the main expan…

My dad got him self a really nice red and black 250 Beamish Suzuki and he let me have a go i was a Bultaco boy so was a bit like forget it but he said its real easy to ride, it just floated around in a nice way and was really easy to ride, for me the bultaco felt more planted you felt the ground more you new what you were riding over, but the beamish just floated up the stream like it was no big deal it was completely different to ride i liked them both

Just tried fitting a set of beamish forks I have lying around on my BSA, but the fork tubes seem to be smaller than 35mm this is stopping me clamping them on the bsa. I’ve measured them and they are 34.87mm which seems to be closer to 1 3/8” did the beamish have odd sized forks?

As this is the next running maintainence job I need to do (to sort a slow oil leak) I am wondering if anyone who had done one before can shed light on the following: 1) I understand that it must be done with the selector shaft removed as you can not prise it out and replace the new one over the selector shaft 2) In order to withdrawal the selector shaft, I believe the clutch basket needs to come off? Is this splined or tapered and is it easy to get off, or like the montesa, a real pig that needs a heavy duty puller? 3) When reassembling is their any line up marks that need to be paid attention to to ensure all gears select OK thanks Rob

when I’m riding the stand keeps coming down, think I’m catching it with my heel? Does anyone else have a problem?

Following 12 months of disappointment of buying what ended up being a significantly bodged Montesa 348 off of ebay and having 4 out of 6 comps as DNF, the Mont is now stripped and having a rebuild. To keep riding I am buying another bike and a very kind owner at the club allowed me to try his Beamish this weekend (try before you buy......) I absolutely loved the bike and the fact that it has finished every comp in the last year and was a dream to start, we have agreed the price (plus the fact that I smacked the rear brake pedal in the very last section on a rock and bent it made me compelled to buy it!) The bike was almost faultless but I did notice (and the owner confi…

Do you find your RL325 a bit of a handful at low speeds? There are a few ways you can calm it down. 1. There is a hole in the barrel just above the exhaust port that get clogged with carbon. You can feel it in the top of the exhaust outlet as a channel, the hole is only about 2mm but if this is cleaned out it will make quite a difference at low speeds, that is what it is there for. There is no hole on the RL250. 2. The standard ignition system on the beamish is analogue and linear, you can get a mapped digital ignition that calms it down at low speeds but still give you all the power when you open the throttle. 3. You can fit a thicker head gasket to lower the co…