lineaway

It`s there to hold it in place. Without it you could rip it out of place with your boots. It won`t happen the first time, but over a period of time it will start sticking out. If you don`t ride much or very hard go ahead and cut it off. It`s cheap until you break the air box plastics.

11 tooth was standard on the `12. Which is a very high first for anybody. The 9 is the way to go, but it does lose a lot of top speed in 5th.

Just get a 9 tooth countershaft sprocket and one of the new lanyards (kill switch connected to the wrist). This way it`s slowed down and it will shut off when needed! Good luck!

Taking a break always clears the mind!

You might show us a picture.

http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/sherco_ignition_timing_guide.pdf Are you sure you did not shear the flywheel key?

That piece has always been on the Pro. I`ve installed the air box hundreds of times, never even noticed it much till re-jetting my bike yesterday.

That was always the problem with the eco. Built with all the spare parts.

The first clue would be the number of bolts in the discs. Brewtus would know as he as one of each in pieces in his driveway as we speak!

I would leave it alone. That tab helps to keep it in place from your boots tugging on it.

Sounds like you are missing the exhaust guard that was mounted to it.

You `re a glutton for punishment! Good luck.

Actually heffergm, ask about the original Jack. He had the first light spring made for the Pro clutch.

I waited and no replies. Depends on elevation, but one step bigger pilot might work.

MRS445001213 9 tooth straight from the GAS Gas parts book. Now to find one!

You would need custom made spokes, just on the hub side. It can be done. Just won`t be very cheap. You could use the stock Yamaha spokes on almost any Excel 36 hole rims or the old style tubeless 36 hole from a gas gas, etc.

The Aprilia had the chain on the rh side. Looks like they flipped the tire around and flipped the swingarm upside down.

Just clean up the rust, but that caliper sure looks funny upside down!

Heat the brakes good by running up and down the street with the brake on. Throw a bucket of water on the caliper. If done right, they should steam. And I`m not joking.

Digger has the right idea. Just like a hydraulic clutch on a car. Remove the whole assembly. Hang the caliper at the top. Forget the hardware, push the piston with a Phillips screwdriver. Best if you had a meter of clear hosed attached to the bleeder held above the caliper to watch the progress. Good luck. Ps. put something between the pads to simulate the disc.

You have to remove the dust seal and then the clip underneath. Put the lower leg in a vice and it will pull apart, but it takes a lot of force. PS. Screw the cap back on to do this, but just finger tight.

Do you have free play at the lever? You must have a loose feeling between the lever and master cylinder. At 10mm it should not slip. Are you using a proper gasket? You cannot just use silicone for a gasket.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDFm1L3kDHY

I`m old school, no shield. I think some smoker hater came up with the shield idea.

They need to include a half dozen with every new bike. 3 for the front 3 for the back. If we have to suffer with this crap, the manufactures should be up front about this.