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11 tooth was standard on the `12. Which is a very high first for anybody. The 9 is the way to go, but it does lose a lot of top speed in 5th.
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Just get a 9 tooth countershaft sprocket and one of the new lanyards (kill switch connected to the wrist). This way it`s slowed down and it will shut off when needed! Good luck!
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Taking a break always clears the mind!
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You might show us a picture.
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http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/sherco_ignition_timing_guide.pdf
Are you sure you did not shear the flywheel key?
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That piece has always been on the Pro. I`ve installed the air box hundreds of times, never even noticed it much till re-jetting my bike yesterday.
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That was always the problem with the eco. Built with all the spare parts.
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The first clue would be the number of bolts in the discs. Brewtus would know as he as one of each in pieces in his driveway as we speak!
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I would leave it alone. That tab helps to keep it in place from your boots tugging on it.
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Sounds like you are missing the exhaust guard that was mounted to it.
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You `re a glutton for punishment! Good luck.
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Actually heffergm, ask about the original Jack. He had the first light spring made for the Pro clutch.
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I waited and no replies. Depends on elevation, but one step bigger pilot might work.
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MRS445001213 9 tooth straight from the GAS Gas parts book. Now to find one!
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You would need custom made spokes, just on the hub side. It can be done. Just won`t be very cheap. You could use the stock Yamaha spokes on almost any Excel 36 hole rims or the old style tubeless 36 hole from a gas gas, etc.
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The Aprilia had the chain on the rh side. Looks like they flipped the tire around and flipped the swingarm upside down.
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Just clean up the rust, but that caliper sure looks funny upside down!
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Heat the brakes good by running up and down the street with the brake on. Throw a bucket of water on the caliper. If done right, they should steam. And I`m not joking.
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Digger has the right idea. Just like a hydraulic clutch on a car. Remove the whole assembly. Hang the caliper at the top. Forget the hardware, push the piston with a Phillips screwdriver. Best if you had a meter of clear hosed attached to the bleeder held above the caliper to watch the progress. Good luck. Ps. put something between the pads to simulate the disc.
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You have to remove the dust seal and then the clip underneath. Put the lower leg in a vice and it will pull apart, but it takes a lot of force.
PS. Screw the cap back on to do this, but just finger tight.
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Do you have free play at the lever? You must have a loose feeling between the lever and master cylinder. At 10mm it should not slip. Are you using a proper gasket? You cannot just use silicone for a gasket.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDFm1L3kDHY
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I`m old school, no shield. I think some smoker hater came up with the shield idea.
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They need to include a half dozen with every new bike. 3 for the front 3 for the back. If we have to suffer with this crap, the manufactures should be up front about this.
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The 7mm head was the upgrade. Originally they had 3mm allen heads which had to be knocked loose with a chisel. You could of saved all that sanding just by burning that clutch in. Fourth gear against a tree and give her hell. Test, and give it another good burn. 5 minute job. Some of us have been doing this for thirteen years. Nothing new.
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