lineaway

Pull the flywheel cover and yank the mag up and down. Sounds like mains to me.

Try thinner trials grips as it looks like you have something else on the bike. The shifter needs to be up about two notches.

Well I`m setting the Itsa National At Sipapu Ski resort this weekend. Nice short drive. We have a Master class that would give the SWM a good work out. Side note the pits are at 8500ft and we go to 9500ft. Lots of pure fun!

I meant I had no issues with the electrics. Never seen anyone disconnect electrics for a weld job if grounded properly.

I welded the same spot with no issues. It`s held the last two years and I`m a crappy welder.

I assume you already made the front brake mount stiffer?

If you have plenty of free play, there are two things that you might not see. You can have the front lever bolt actually tightening while pulling the lever. Also have you pulled apart the master cylinder and verified the little port is not plugged to the reservoir? Also the piston can bind, but just slowly returns to the off position.

Sounds like you did not leave enough play in the lever. Started locking up because it could not return fluid to the reservoir.

I`ve worn a pair of CTI`s since `95. No worries.

You cannot just straighten the pin, it has sheared. Now if you are a good welder, you could tack it. But the next big hit would break the links inside the shift drum.

No, the pin is sheared. You buy the top hat which comes with a new spring zip tied in place. Once installed, you then cut the zip tie.

I would not worry until tech inspect.

Install the same number you remove. The whole engine is this way. There were measurements for each shaft if I remember right, so no number of shims is correct by diagram. Some bikes had 2, 3 or 4. Simple huh?

Most people are too busy on the phone to have their own life!

Chances are it slowly heated up during the event. I would install new pads and back off the adjustment to make sure you have some free play. You are lucky it did not catch fire.

It also depends on what rules you ride under. Ryan made those videos a long time ago and the bikes have changed drastically since he really competed. I`m a single hopper, but my boy makes the two wheel hop child`s play. The flick turn Ryan speaks of took a lot of effort, modern suspension requires little effort with proper timing. Once you figure out the timing, it`s a great technique to use over and over again.

I usually check it right before I ride. If it`s a wet day, I set it on the low side. If it`s hot and dry, I keep a visual eye on the sidewall. World round in 1990, Globe Arizona. Jordi`s mechanic would check the tire pressure every time he rode this big rock for the crowd. Like a dozen times!

No, most of the Beta owners that switched were on REV` 3`s. And all of them in our club went back to Beta. And several on the 4T. Only the Honda die hards still ride them.

Nice read, but the best way to clean out a steel exhaust system is to burn it out. Granted you need a place with no neighbors close by. Once you get it started at one end, just feed it a small amount of oxygen. You can see it`s progress as it works it`s way through. Does not work with aluminum, though I have done it.

I always had stalling issues with the Keihin until I drilled out the second vent. Just returned from riding at 9000ft elevation and the carb was flawless.

Yes Dan, he is talking about the needle jet. It also sounds like someone flattened the end of the vent tube. PS after reading your other thread, I would try a 48 - 50 pilot jet.

Someone really screwed up that carb. Have someone that knows Keihin`s show you a proper one.

The 4rt never needs a stand. Throw it on the ground and it`s still happy.

A cheap plastic bottle works, but use it as soon as you can.

You have to find if there is an air leak first. You never mentioned which carbs. If you are just using another stock carb, it could be as simple as missing the o ring on the top.