lineaway

Boy you two should know better. The Jap zap was the original name, but in fairy land it became a zap. A zap is basically a double blip with the clutch included. Nowadays it has included the bridge which is just a stopped zap. The biggest thing with the Jap Zap is you hit the front tire lower than the blip. (This idea has changed through the years to include hitting the front anywhere since suspension has become better.) This compresses the suspension and the clutch is used to utilize the full force of the release. The zap and blip always uses the front wheel on the obstacle first. There is a lot more too it. Check out Ryan Young training videos. Anything that the rear wheel hits first is a splatter or an old fashioned jump.

It should, but the chance of the coil being bad is slim. Have you trimmed the coil wire back 10-20mm ?

Between sections riding Vintage on a 500. Had a heart attack. He was an accomplished plastic surgeon just about ready to retire.

Sounds more like an Ethanol issue. Got plenty of new 16`s and 17`s in our club and no issues.

Do a search on the Fantic or Bultaco forum for more pics. The Montesa forum does not have as much info. I have not done it, or yet. My old 348 is fairly quiet, but she is very plugged with oil.

You probably need to repack the box.

If the mains are moving, so is the seal. Bingo, that is the air leak.

To check the mains you do not need to remove the flywheel. You are checking movement.

Pull the flywheel cover off and give it a good tug up and down. Good chance the mains and seals have gone bad,

The fast way will probably cost you a set of pads. Remove the caliper and fill with brake fluid through the banjo bolt hole. Reinstall and connect the hose. Fill the m/c and crack the bolt at the caliper slightly. Tighten the caliper bolt once fluid is coming out the hose. At this point you might get lucky and the m/c will slowly pump up with air bubbles rising to the top. If not the best way to bleed the system is with a three foot clear hose that reaches above the m/c. Patiently pump the system slowly till the fluid is above the m/c. If you still have bubbles, empty the line and do again. You can also take the whole brake assembly off the bike and hang it by the caliper. You need to put something firmly between the pads. The idea is the air will go up easier this way. Still use a clear hose above the caliper to bleed, slowly pumping the lever. If the fluid does not move, the m/c is bad and/or the lever is adjusted wrong. Better to take the lever off and pump with a Phillips screw driver.

Why were you bleeding it in the first place? Did you rebuild the m/c as that might be needed.

It is a six spring clutch, you could just leave two springs completely out. Worst thing that could happen is some slippage in 5th and 6th.

Go to gas gas motos and compare the parts book. Oh, gee they do not list the contact. Ever wonder why?

I have ridden a 2017 Gasser, not the GP. Last weekend I rode the Sherco with the new clutch which was good for a Sherco, but I`ll leave it at that. The new factory is not here yet, but I have never been a Sherco fan. And I have ridden last years RR, but never understood peoples fascination with Honda. We have 8 4RT`s at work and the clutches are just awful. By the way I commented the clutch was not hard, but I did not take the poor guys bike out and thrash it hard as it being as new.

Almost sounds like a grounding issue. Check all earths and connections over again. PS double check all the pins in the cdi are making contact.

I rode a new 300 ten days ago and there was nothing hard about the clutch pull. And I severely damaged my clutch finger two months ago. The day I rode the TRS was the first time I had been back on a bike since my injury. The TRS is probably the best new bike that I have ridden. (I have yet to ride the Vertigo)

Google scottish trials bike preparation

I think you are referring to the Scottish. The Scott is a one day event. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwin38-966TSAhWB7YMKHQFCBjwQFgg4MAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FScott_Trial&usg=AFQjCNGx85ruaaPI6BuuMNQweLl2JDkIpg&bvm=bv.147448319,d.amc

`08 worked great. 2g to 2.5 max.

Like I said, every new rider wants the bars higher. Reality, trials is all about body position. Which first means to bend your knees, not stand straight and tall. Watch any new rider and that is why they struggle with most obstacles. I am not being stubborn, that is what it takes to ride. Sure I understand being old and sore as I have had plenty of injuries through the years.

You lose leverage with bar risers. The human body is proportional. Your height has nothing to do with bar position as your arms should make up the difference. Seen Doug L`s. bar risers lately? In fact tall riders have way more advantage if they use it. Grasshopper like. My kid is over 6` 4` and he cannot ride a bike with risers as the leverage lost is valuable to basic skills. Every new Enduro rider coming into this sport wants risers! The funny thing looking back to the 70`s and 80`s bike stance, we would need 10 inch and taller bars for the new riders.

The tether is still a pain in the a- - . The first loop walking the sections I forget it most of the time. Second and third loop while not getting on and off it`s easy. I have it on half of my bikes. I still prefer the kill switch.

Bend your knees more. Might post a pic of your bar set up. Risers will just make you ride wrong.

I thought you had a 4RT.? I think this mod was only for the early rev 3`s. Our late model 4 t`s always fire right up.