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The middle part looks the same as my own MAR, the silencer - I cant remember ever seeing one like that on an Ossa the front pipe could be TR77 { they are that shape - MAR is much shorter }

2K would be better than a can, but you may get good results with a can on something as small as a caliper High temp paint may be needed on a road bike, but would a trials brake get hot enough to need it ? as for brake fluid , I think some of the modern fluids are glycol based , which is not so harmful to paintwork as the older fluids were

Mikuni, Dellorto, OKO , in fact probably anything would last longer than an Amal If possible buy from someone who can advise regarding size & jetting etc.

I have used 4mm mild steel to lower the foot pegs on my Ossa with no twisting so far after a few years as for welding or Bolt on - if the Chrome on the frame is good , it would be a shame to burn it off where you weld on your plates , so maybe try bolts first ?

have you tried putting them in a dishwasher at the highest setting ? { not recommended if married } like everything else sometimes you can get good results this way, sometimes not

Yes, isn't the OKO a good copy of a Keihin ? and some of the other copies are not so good

I could be wrong, but I don't think you can compare jet numbers, from one carb manufacturer to another . I know that Mikuni Hexagon head jets & slotted head jet numbers are not equivalent - one is flow rate I think ? , the other type some measurement of the physical size ? also with some jets the flow is measured in the direction fuel would flow in use, while other jets the measurement is done in the opposite direction you would be best to call a carb specialist

Mikuni is another good option, and if low-cost is important, you can buy many used Mikuni's that are still serviceable - unlike Amal , where 99% of used ones will be completely worn-out due to the rubbish metal they are made from Had the same problem as you with my OSSA 250 MAR about 5 years ago, got a good used Mikuni & a selection of jets , after some experimenting found jetting that suited the bike , and have had no carb problems for 5 years

Don't get Lycra . Lycra only looks good when worn by a fit woman

you would bother if you want the best engine performance, I didn't think it was important until I set the clearance correctly on a 175 Yamaha , and found a noticeable improvement in power , plus it stopped pinging ( which had been a problem previously }

As has been said , the tread on todays speedway tyres is very shallow { even when new } and although the tread pattern may look like a trials type there are probably differences in sidewall & plies etc.

Has anybody tried removing the ethanol from the petrol before use, as an alternative to sealants etc ? there was at least one company selling a kit { Ethanil.co.uk , I think was one ? } I remember reading an article where you added a certain amount of water to your petrol, the ethanol would then be absorbed by the water. this ethanol + water mixture would then separate from the petrol and sink to the bottom of your container and then you syphoned off the now ethanol-free petrol . sounded a good idea , but never met anyone who tried it. if it works the only problem I can see is that you are still left with all the other modern additives still in your petrol and these may also attack glass fibre

If you are worried about - potential bike thieves , then any type of advertising lets people know you have a bike . But it wont sell if no-one knows its for sale ? you are possibly safer advertising it on trials forums / club websites etc , but your ad wont be seen by many people if you don't trust ebay , then definitely don't advertise it on facebook whatever you do TMX is weekly so worth a try, or if you are in no hurry maybe try some monthly magazines ? if you want top retail money for it then you will have to advertise & sell it yourself , otherwise maybe ask some bike shops if they are interested in selling on your behalf { they will obviously want a reasonable cut of the selling price } good luck

If you only want to kill the bacteria that causes the smell , you could try putting the helmet in a bag , then put the helmet in a freezer for a few hours . I haven't tried this myself , but I have a friend who has flameproof overalls & helmet for car racing - he tries to avoid washing as he reckons this reduces the flame retardant properties. when his kit gets a bit smelly { but not dirty } he puts it all in a sealed bag and leaves overnight in freezer

It does sound like you have the wrong seals . I have replaced several over the years and have never needed to use much force

although not strictly necessary , a couple of thin coats of etch primer before you put on the filler/primer can help with adhesion

perhaps making a plug that fits tightly - then drill and pin ? or drill and screw ? or glue if you can find something that will withstand high temperatures ?

Only every winter ? you are very lucky , mine gets stuck every time I ride it ! If I ride it today , it will definitely be stuck tomorrow . in fact sometimes just letting it cool down for an hour is enough for it to stick. as for releasing it, as has been said - bump start it and ride it while pulling in the clutch is one method that usually works for me in a few minutes. or pull in clutch and keep kicking over till it releases ( ignition off ) perhaps you could hold the clutch lever in with a cable tie ? when not using the bike

as others have said, if you really cant get the hang of riding the 300 maybe look at a 200 or 125. But maybe avoid a 125 if you are a bit tall or heavy

Thanks, probably wouldn't have looked under ATV / Quad

thanks

would you have the Electrex part no. for that please ? my own Beamish has its original ignition components, but they are all looking a bit frail , and I expect its only a matter of time before the ignition plays up

My own MAR starting smoking suddenly one day, but had been fine when ridden the previous week. turned out to be crank oil seal on clutch side had somehow got stuck to the crankshaft and was rotating with it ! { no idea how this could happen, but it did } fitted new seal with some adhesive and its been fine since, worst part of the job was removing the cush-drive off the Crankshaft to access the seal

I think its the Petrol that does this . I don't know the proper scientific term for it { but I am sure someone does, and will be along shortly} its as if the plastic is porous and the petrol soaks into it. Perhaps different types of Petrol and the different Premix oil cause different effects / colour changes ? and of course could be explained by different types of plastic being used to manufacture two tanks that look the same ? as for prevention, I guess you could get a new tank and fill it and drain it on the days you ride without leaving petrol in overnight may work ?

Sorry you haven't had any replies , I cant help as I have never owned a pre65 bike maybe you have had no replies because you are thinking of using actual real old 1964 parts ? most people these days would be fitting - New Billet "pre65" yokes into a New "Replica Pre65" Frame Have you contacted any of the classic specialists ? like Sammy miller products , Terry Weedy