t-shock 250

I'm also thinking carb icing, but hard to tell over the internet.

Spotting the right line, knowing exactly where both wheels will be going, especially in rocky/stream sections.

Trail riding or trials riding? Big difference!

Got electronic ignition on the 320TL, the advance curve makes a hell of a difference to the power, if Woody is on here he can tell you his view as he tested mine before & after.

Very good, i thought this was going to be a "look at my stupid rim stickers" thread. Nice to see some hard work being done, carry on.......

I fitted a set from a CR250 (i think) lower, wider with better mud clearing. Straight fit.

If i remember correctly, we disconnected the scavenge valve & blanked it off. I didn't like the idea of fuel (or more likely, oil that gathers in the bottom) being fed back to the carb. The best mod though was to raise the barrel 2 or 3mm, on the 240 engine this allowed the exhaust port to be fully uncovered, the bike revved much better after this.

If its a '93 it will have silver upside-down forks & red engine cases, this was the last year they used upside-down forks.

Toothandnail: i clicked on one of your pictures and got bombarded with spam pop up adverts. Thanks.

Thats really bad luck mate, have to say though, don't leave your bike anwhere where it can be seen no matter how many chains you use.

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=aprilia+climber+1991&hl=en&sa=G&biw=1024&bih=567&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=YqT6gNPLa7UhWM:&imgrefurl=http://www.tuttocollezioni.it/cartoline/tematiche/Automobili/index2.html&docid=YPRfPw3vFhQlMM&imgurl=http://www.tuttocollezioni.it/cartoline/tematiche/Automobili/slides/P7399%252520MOTO%252520Italia%2525201991%252520APRILIA%252520CLIMBER%252520280%252520RACING%252520THIERRY%252520MICHAUD%252520TRIAL.jpg&w=712&h=720&ei=q53bTrXkDMGK8gP96tjgBg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=335&vpy=168&dur=2797&hovh=226&hovw=223&tx=134&ty=121&sig=112630180060374350001&page=5&tbnh=163&tbnw=161&start=43&ndsp=8&ved=1t:429,r:1,s:43 You asked what year the bike is, all 3 replies tell you it's a 1991. It can't be newer as they were a different shape, it can't be older as the previous 2 years didn't have the stainless front pipe yours has. Also yours is the original '91 green with white mudguard.

Looks like a '91, i had one! '92 onwards were a different shape.

Judging by the angle of the rear mudguard you need to check if the rear subframe is bent. Also, get the bike on a work stand & check for play in the rear suspension linkage, this can cost

They are rubbish, ditch it immediately, take note of what everyone here is saying.

Good vid!, drop the cheesy chav music though

Wow! looks very much like a Beta EVO at first glance, lots of nice touches up close though! Images on jotagasUK website.

In my experience, problems arise when a course is set out too tight to ride without having to move front/rear wheels sideways to make the turn. Quite often (as said above) an observer will allow a momentary stop but this favours the better riders as they are more capable of giving the perception that they are keeping the bike moving (by using a more fluid technique of hopping if you get my drift) At first, i was in favour of no-stop, but recently i'm not so sure as stopping seems to be allowed most of the time and sections are still laid out too tight to be ridden conventionally.

Bikes of this era usually ran on 50:1 mineral or semi-synth, i have no personal experience of this particular model, but i have run air cooled SWM engines at 65:1 fully synthetic for over 15 years with good results, low smoke and low wear rate. I consider this ratio to be on the safe side, i'm sure 75:1 would be fine also.

Get hold of an engine from a Fantic 300 & fit it in there.

Thats really nice, the TTT graphics are a bit of a mess in my opinion, this is clean & simple.

This isn't the '70's though, things have moved on a bit.

This question comes up time & time again, the general consensus seems to be that most folk run between 70 - 80:1 using a fully synthetic oil. "dadof2" doesn't take into account that trials bikes simply don't generate the engine speeds or heat to burn off the very excessive oil ratios which he is quoting. You will be unpopular at your local club if you run so much oil that you are smoking people out in the queue for the sections not to mention you will have to clean out and re-pack your exhaust constantly.

I thought it was impossible for anodising to "peel off" as it isnt actually a coating as such?

A gori is basically the previous years SWM, all the info you need is on the motoswm website or e-mail martin mathews from the site.

Its Jotagas, as in JOrdiTArres, you know him? bit handy on a bike.