lineaway

It is a very fine line in the measurement process with the sanding. I still have a couple dozen steel plates around so I rarely sand myself.

The higher the fingers, the more leverage felt at the clutch lever. Too high of fingers they could rub on the case. Originally you could buy different thickness of steel plates. All good things go to sh-t so in todays world you have to sand the friction plates. (Or burn the clutch wildly against a wall) The 17.5 is straight down from the highest point of the fingers. That is what matters most! Sure you can measure the total thickness, but that what really matters is when it is all tightened up.

The fingers have nothing to do with it besides a measurement.

It uses mineral oil not dot4.

125mm from the top with the fork compressed.

Your changing the oil at three months?

Make sure the choke jet (the one with the oring) is clear and that whole choke circuit is clear including the one in the float bowl.

We use ATF because it hooks up better. And is also less grabby. Seems like everytime I sell a bike the NEW guy has to change to his brand of oil. And everytime they want you to ride it to see how well it works. I usually tell them how nice it feels, but you are not going to zap any ledge with that slow damn clutch.

You have been able to order parts from any Honda dealer for three years.

It is the finger height that matters. 17.5 to 18mm is the sweet spot. You can cheat and just burn the plates real hard in 4th gear or take the clutch apart to sand the friction plates.

The carb is not venting. Did you put vent lines on the carb?

https://www.splatshop.co.uk/spring-for-gear-shift-lever.html

Yes, trail riding you do not second guest what you can ride. You just go for it!

Actually the question you asked and the correct answer is actually just backwards. The question has been the same for decades. Why when you are out trail riding obstacles obstacles are easier to ride? Once they are in a section that you have just walked the section, your mind tends to lock up.

Red rubber grease, but on the AJP just brake fluid will due if you do not have other issues.

Did you re jet and install the thumb screw?

Scorpa! Orange is the new blue!

The gyro on the front wheel and the rear sets made it pretty easy for anybody to go the first mile. But still very hard to do.

Buy a used AJP or new. That is probaby you problem. The brand.

The older model used dot 4.

If every thing else fails, remove the jet tower. The part with the security torx screws.

Fresh fuel and a new spark plug is the first place to start.

Not a whole lot of people repair a Sachs.Time to look for a new shock.Bent shaft, shock head damaged. Let us know if you get it apart.

A main shaft is hardly a couple hours unless you brought them just the bottom end.

https://www.dsquaredtrials.com/parts---accessories.html Remember to spec a 2018 cap as they are different. https://www.splatshop.co.uk/csp-petrol-filler-cap-beta-evo-2018.html