b40rt

Are these the same as mine Patrik ? 😀

Good that your getting there. You should always have to use the choke from cold. If it will start without it you have a carb problem, float level or jetting, leaking needle valve. Always switch petrol off when storing or transporting, and completely drain carb and tank for longer periods.

If it's an NGK plug, a 6 will run colder than a 5 so will tend to foul sooner in typical trials going.

Is the coil body onto bare metal ? I'd disconnect and isolate all non essential wires.

Have you tried riding around dragging the brake getting it really hot, then spraying clean cold water onto the disc and pads ?

( not beta but fairly similar) Sticking clutches are pretty common, my preferred method is start and warm engine. Push bike and slip it into gear, ride with clutch lever pulled in and slight application of rear brake.

Coming to a Tesla near you....

Usually a bolt, welded to the frame, rough!y vertically. The length and position determined by the tank. A rubber bung is sandwiched between two largeish washers, and when compressed holds the tank. Usually some pipe insulation under the tank keeps everything snug.

We prefer to hurt ourselves before wearing protection ? I have plastic guards that cover knees and shins down to boots, probably wouldn't ride if I forgot them.

Normally an air leak causes a very fast idle.

Unless your man is dirt cheep, or free, I'd stick with recognised experts. Have you considered the suitability of the material being supplied as a replacement liner ?

Richard Allan is worth contacting.

Try a different lube. I take it the valve core is out ? I've heard of people using quite a bit more psi. (check max psi on tyre) I'm assuming your using a decent sized compressor ?

How many psi are you using ?

Is the rim damaged, or just needing trued ? Go round the spokes with a spanner or similar and tap each one, any dull sounding spokes are loose. Get the wheel in the air and lub every nipple before trying to turn them.

How about the other end ? Rinse the leg with brake cleaner or similar to improve friction. Have you googled to see if there is anything available to break down thread lock ?

Can you see enough of the head to clamp vice grips onto ? Then pull as you turn ?

A friend sold one a few months ago for 2k, no mot.

And yet, it's ok to cycle anywhere, 5 mile limit apparently doesn't apply ! I would think the risks of playing on a trials bike and cycling are very similar, why are we being so hard on our selves ?

If the bike doesn't get really hot, at least occasionally, you will get a build up of 2strokes in the exhaust. If the box is steel, do as is suggested above, if it's alloy you could do all sorts of damage.

Is it actually gear oil, or crap from the exhaust ? (On many bikes I've used good quality silicon to seal cases, my method is use silicon sparingly, put casing on and tighten as usual, leave overnight to cure before adding oil )

The old "cheap" pre65's and twin shocks have had new tyres, bars, leavers, cables, frames replaced or modified, new tank and seats, hubs re-lined, wheels respoked, new shocks and fork springs, stancions re-chromed, piston & re-bored, tyres etc If you add these costs to an original price tag of £1500 (? ) your well on the way to 5/6k, ignoring labour. @trapezeartist ?

What's the chances of the new boots being of the original quality ? Generally you have to go up a size in Sidi's.

There is a gentleman rides Cumberland county trials on an electric bike. I believe he is in his eighties. Maybe contact the club for some info. @t-shock 250

Something to consider when moving them back is the side stand, if you want to retain it this might be a limiting factor.