Yamaha

This is my Whitehawk I have just finished restoring/upgrading

I picked this up a few hours ago... I don't think it's a majesty but does have some obvious parts fitted The rain does believe it or not make it look better Anyways over to you guys...

I think my engine seriously needs rebuilding now, just wondering how much it would cost roughly? Say if it needed new big and little ends, main bearings + seals, new piston and a rebore? It's had a brand new clutch at some point which is in really good nick, I rebuilt it and all the friction plates, smooth plates and springs are actually oversized according to the manual, so it doesn't slip at all! I gearbox is sweet aswell, changes really smoothly.

hello all, ok; dilema is this. I have a rattly ty ('so do I' you all shout back ;-] ......) basically, when I got the bike, I looked up the exhaust port and saw blow by. Taking the head off confirmed that the cylinder was on maximum rebore. The piston had a jammy bottom ring, so I put in a cheapo piston and new leb. it sounded rattlier than before, and I changed back to the old leb as the new one was faulty. Slight improvement, then a bit more improvement jamming up the fins with rubber, but still rattley. No blow by on new cheapo piston. So, can I assume that bore is ok and that a nice expensive wossner piston and leb will make it a bit better? Or, do i get it lin…

I had considered this project pretty much finished. She has had everything replaced from new carb to full engine rebuild. All cables etc, seals. There is basically hardly any original left. She was starting great and she had new points, condenser and coil. Points were set to 1.8mm btdc at 0.35mm. I have had a few runs on her and she was lugging me around, all 15 stone of me. She does have a new 60cc barrel kit as the 50cc was badly worn and scored. Just recently a friend came over and asked "does it run"? I promptly went to start it and that's when the trouble began. It ran for about 30 seconds then fluttered out. Since then it won't start. Although she is getting a nice …

Am assisting with the rebuild of a TY 175 which when completed will be ridden in trials including the KIA series. What is the best set up for the frame and forks please, can the skinny leg 175 forks be made to work well, they operate smothly enough but seem very softly sprung with not much damping. The frame is totally standard what changes or improvements could be made to improve steering, handling, footrests etc or is it best left alone? Chain is 428 with 12t gearbox and 51t rear wheel sprockets fitted are these sizes a good choice, needs work before it can be ridden.

Does anyone out there have a TY250Z two stroke aluminum frame Yamaha trials bike? What do you think of it. Is the engine the same as the Yamaha 4 GG - AxC = 74x58 on the new Scorpa? Does anyone know why it was discontinued, or where it was available?

http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/himekami7788/3251275.html

Been riding Fantic T/S' for ages, and have a TY 250 mono that seems to work just like a modern bike, so imagine my supprise when I got a really nice majesty 250, wich seems as flat as a pancake, spoke to a few Yam boys, and was imformed they are all like that?? well are they?? Dont get me wrong , it seems to climb anything, but you have to hang on and wait, not confidence inspiring. How does yours go????

I picked up a fairly original U.S. model 76 ty250. It still has the autolube hooked up. I know alot of people disconnect them and premix fuel. what are the pros and cons of doing this. I know about saving weight and piece of mind in not worrying about the pump failing. But has anyone ever really seen one fail? Do you think the lubrication is better if pre mixed.

Guys- I think the TY 250 can run either a #428 chain or a #520 chain. Are there any advantages one way or the other? favorite? and why? Best sources? Right now I mostly ride single track and fire roads with a stock 53 tooth on the rear and 12 in the front, but my 53 is about worn out and the chain is about ready to go with it too, so I'm wondering where I can find replacements for all 3 parts if possible. My instinct tells me to stay with steel for the rear sprocket for longevity if nothing else. Any comments are much appreciated!

Hi All. I have a yamaha TY175 fairly local to me, which from pictures looks fairly tidy.. I want a bike i can use and not worry too much about cosmetic condition but don't want a rat. The bike in question hasn't been used for 10 years. The seller started it up today and said it is running really well. Now if it hasn't been used for a long time i heard that the engine seals harden and although it may run ok for a few weeks it more than likely going to be a problem in the not too distant future. It's this Bike here in link below - any advice much appreciated. Cheers Taff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-Ty175-twin-shock-trials-/162631190…

Does anybody know if genuine Yamaha pistons are still available for a twinshock TY250?. I've got hold of a 'pattern' piston from a UK Yam spares dealer and it's been nothing but trouble .........any help would be appreciated.

Hi all. Has anyone fitted Boyesen reeds on their TY175? If so did it make much difference and what difference (bottom end, top end etc.)? Did you have to change anything else (jetting?)? I know guys with moto X bikes that reckon these are a must have. Cheers.

I just sold my 74 TY 250 to a friend because I was tired of always having to clean the points and stator to get the coil to produce a spark, but I did buy a either 85 or 86 TY 350 from my dad. It has gold rims, new tires, new rear fender, etc. Is there a VIN decoder that I can use to figure out which year it is? It runs good but I have to mod a FMF silencer onto the exhaust pipe. The head pipe has a hairline crack in it in the chamber area and I was wondering if I could mig weld it carefully? The headpipe looks like an aftermarket one because it definitely doesn't look like the stock pipe I've seen in photos on the web. Also, the bike didn't come with a headlight assemb…

I,m thinking about buying the foot pegs for my TY250A from sammy miller products.Do they make a noticeable difference in foot position and handling?

Hi all, I haven't really ridden for 20 or so years (I used to do heaps of trail bike riding 20+ years ago on my old trail bike, usually more trials (rough) type trail riding rather than enduro (fast) type trail riding) and looking at buying a TY175 or TY250 (or maybe other twin shocker, KT250, RL250 etc) to ride casual trials/comp twinshock trials but would like to also to poke around doing some general trail riding exploring etc. My feeling is that the 175 would make a better competitive trials bike but the 250 would be better as a combination trials and trail bike. What about the RL250? What are your thoughts? If its relevant I'm about 5 foot 7 and 78 kgs.

Any wisdom from the Northern Hemisphere?? Click on this one: http://www.trials.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=7408

First off this is not a slam against Sammy Miller Products as I have a lot of them on this bike. It is a request for help solving a problem. This bike replaces my wife's old Montesa 123. She really like the looks of a tank/seat combo so a new one was ordered for the little TY. A US vendor that sells these recommends sealing them so I used a method that worked great on the Montesa tank. The first weekend of riding the bike was great. After it sat for a week it would not run for her and I could tell the pilot was clogged. When cleaning it I found a fair amount of varnish on the slide. After the carb cleaning the bike ran fine for the rest of the day. The next day brough…

Just finished a rebuild on my Pinky, I've bought a metal tank off an older TY mono for now but I was wondering if anybody has any ideas on how to clean up the outside of a mono plastic tank?. I dont't want to spray it as I know it will bubble off, surely there must be some kind of a mild acid soap that can take off the horrible yellow colour these tanks seem to go....any thoughts?