Bultaco

Hi Guys and girls I have just acquired a model 92 350 Sherpa for restoration/rebuild. bike seems to be mostly original but requires some refurbishment, Any pointers to UK suppliers and tips on what to look out for would be great fully.

Dear All, Just getting to the end of my Frontera 370 restoration, after 9 years! i'm about to start on the electrics. does anyone know anything about the box of tricks they used to have under the tank. mine had a ULO EBL 801 which was obviously knackered but it seems they were 6 volt. As i'd actually like to see where i am going i'm planning on going to 12 volts and LEDs front and back. Has anyone done any 12 v conversions on theirs? Paul Cundy sherpa 199b 340, Frontera 370, Range Rover P38, E-type S3 V12 OTS and Noble M12 race car.

Hi all My Sherpa198a project is moving ahead again after a break for a few summer jobs. Engine stripped and cases split and I am now thinking ahead to assembly. I've read the workshop manual (which doesn't actually cover the 198a), studied the parts manual exploded view and trawled through similar questions/answers on the forum. I am therefore familiar with the two main methods of assembling the main bearings. Fit onto crank and then into crankcases or into crankcases first and then fit crank. But I did notice that quite a few people on the forum talk about the importance of taking care to centralise the crankshaft in the cases as you bolt them up. However …

Hi again all. Back again so soon. I am literally about to order all the bearings and seals for my 198a and I thought what the heck why not fit a roller bearing to the timing side like many others have already successfully done. An extra £30 or so in percentage terms is not much. So my question is what type of roller bearing to buy? What type have you all fitted? I note that DaveyS posted a similar question back on 26th June and he has used an SKF NJ205 ECP/C3. This type of bearing allows free float in one direction but not in the other and fitted with the flange against the flywheel means that if the crankcase expands more than the crank itself, which it probabl…

Recently bought a model 27 as a resto project and have removed the front forks for a strip and rebuild. The bike has been stood for 30 odd years and the the one fork leg stripped out fairly easily but the other one is a bigger problem. The damper rod is jammed in the stanchion and refuses to budge, even after giving it a good soak in Plusgas for the last 3 days. It's got to come out as I'm fitting new stanchions, the old ones are round and true, but the chrome is tatty. I have removed the ciclip but rod won't move either way. Any ideas as to the best way to remove the damper rod?

Hi all, I'm desperately in need of your help! I think I just made a BIG mistake ! I bought this bike, Sherpa 125cc, last week, it was in very good shape! It even started after a few kick start. I didn't use it, just tested it, and then it suddenly stoped while I was riding it, after less then a minute. After that impossible to start it again. So I checked many things, changed all oils, and cleaned the carburetor. That where I made a huge mistake ! When I fixed back the carburetor, I inserted the "bushel" in the wrong position, 180deg offset from the right position. I thought it was ok because I saw some guides inside the carburetor and thought it must …

This story begins sometime in 1971, or maybe it was 1972, when dad bought a nearly new model 49 Bultaco. This was to replace the 4-speed model he'd ridden briefly, worn-out heap that it was. I never knew that much about that bike as a kid growing up, although I learnt plenty about the other few in the garage. After digging out some boxes of photos from my parents loft I have found that when dad left home in the late 70s to move in with my mum, he left the Bultaco behind in his own mum's garage. A set of photos from 1985 show a very young version of me looking at the bike on the trailer outside her house, and then the early stages of it being dismantled. (Dad in…

Hi all, new to the forum and hoping someone can help. Could anyone tell me where to locate a piston for my 221 frame number sherpa t 125. The piston measures 60mm and as far as I can tell from the lack of markings it's a standard size. The bore measures 60.986mm. I have looked at the usual sites, french classics, in motion etc but can not find a listing. Even good old flea bay had not come up with the goods. Any help greatly appreciated.

Hello. I saw some old topics which recommended a NJ 205 ECP/ C3 bearing for the ignition side. This was specific to Bultacos but probably applies to lots of others. I bought an SKF which was pretty pricey at £30 but the benefits of fitting it sold on the outlay. The SKF has a collar/flange on one side and the whole outer bearing can slide off the other uncollared side. When I put the bearing on the crankshaft (370 Frontera Mk10) the bearing inner is up against the slight raised section of weight, as should be, but the bearing outer is free to slide up over this raised section and sit against the weight. My concern is that in on assembly when I drop the crankshaft …

hi I purchased 163 short block The crank is it 60 or 64 stroke .so I find right cylinder

Hello. just acquired a nice 198A Just ordering some parts could anyone tell me what fork seals are required. also the mikuni carb is leaking but it is going into the air box taken a pc of the carb seems to be coming from the bottom is it a ball bearing ? I have ordered a new air hose as the one on is split . Any help would be appreciated Greg. R

Help please. I need a new simplex primary chain for my 250 sherpa. In Motion are out of stock is there any where else I can get one?

Does anybody recognise this rear brake plate, It's 133mm across shoes 12mm spindle numbers inside? Part number who knows. 340.16.002.03 montesa ktm husky?

Hello there, I recently bought a Bultaco cross motorcycle 1970 Sherpa S model. It has three wires running out of the engine left cover and it goes directly to a red box which I assume is the starting coil because it goes to the spark plug cap. So here it goes, my question is if I can install a headlight and a back light without modifying anything inside the engine. I thank you in advance for any reply, Jaime.

Well my 158. That I have owned for about 5 years and done nothing to it. Always been too busy. Proper chuffed kicks up on the 1st kick every time BUT now I have a petrol leek it’s an alloy tank but never looked very good on one side so off it came and stripped it. Wow what a mess someone has done just wondered can it be salvaged ? Nice to know what you guys think would really like to save it. Here’s a picture

Asking for a friend...for those who by necessity or design choose to install a mikuni carb on an earlier Alpina or Sherpa T what have you found to adapt the airbox side 1.75"o.d. carb flange to the 2" i.d. rubber airbox intake hose ?Thanks Alpthusiast?

Just fitted a in motion electronic ignition with lights. Got spark fuel but will not start do I need a condenser with this ignition ?

Just bought a electronic ignition for one of my bikes and a kill switch from in motion 2 wires on the kill switch black with white stripe. And black with yellow stripe. Should it be black yellow earthed to frame ? Greg

Ok, I have m M-27 spokes all cleaned up and zinc plated...ordered some aftermarket 8G brass nipples off ebay..from Taiwan ...thinking 8G "4mm" metric nipples should all be about the same...they arrived, look great, don't fit..sure looks like same thread and will go if forced..but I think spoke may just be cutting new threads in brass nipple..I read somewhere, on a Husky forum, that some older spoke threads are rolled, not cut, which makes them an odd size..anyone know what thread size/pitch is on these early spokes/nipples?...and where to find them? thanks!

I’ve found a couple of old threads on wiring but they don’t fully address my problem... I have an Alpina 213 but the brake and tail lights aren’t working. The bike has been retired (badly) at some point and the resistor is now missing, and they are apparently unobtainable, it also has a brake light switch with normally closed contacts. I’ve had one suggestion which is to fit an LED bulb as they’re more tolerant of fluctuations in voltage, though that would need a normally open brake light switch. I know these are available but I’d like to keep to the original style and position, and am yet to find one suitable. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to …