Suzuki/Beamish

I’ve recently picked up another project, a 1975 Suzuki RL250 Exacta, which seems to run well, but is in need of some cosmetic work, and some routine maintenance done, such as brake cables and chain/sprockets replaced. The intention is to give it to my Father once it’s sorted, so we can ride together, but want to make sure it’s sound before he gets on. One question that seems to be eluding me is an aftermarket sprocket. I’ve seen the Talon kits available on eBay, and it seems that RL250.com and Beamish Owners Club offers kits as well, but was wondering what other Suzuki models share the same rear sprocket bolt pattern, as well as alternatives for the front sprocket? …

I started riding trials on this Suzuki in 2015 . The fellow I bought It from converted it from the pictured ts185.

I have been offered another bike which if I bought it would mean the Beamish has to go first. What sort of price do you think I can get for it? Here's the spec- 1978 Beamish Suzuki 250. Rare Red/Black model. New Paintwork/Lacquer to Fuel Tank New Chain/Sprockets New Levers New Decals all round New Michelin Tyres Fully serviced with new plug, lead, plug cap and oils Repaired kick start lever New front fork gaiters (still to fit) Previous owner did- New seat cover New Wheel Bearings New WES alloy silencer All stainless fasteners Polished Forks, Yokes etc New head bearings New Swing arm bushes New White Stihl Mudguards New Betor rear shocks To go with …

I was looking for some help please.... Im rebuilding a 1981 Black engine 250 Beamish Suzuki and would like to know what size rear shocks ( how long in cm or inches please ) are been fitted to your bikes and which spark plugs seem to work best ? Thanks for any feed back.

Whilst at the 2-day Dartmoor Trial this weekend (great trial, thanks to Bill Hartnell and his helpers!) I swapped one of my Fantic 200s for clean looking 325 Beamish. Maybe a bad move from a competitivness (?) standpoint but nostagia said I needed a Beamish as I trashed the rearframe loop of my mates 250 back in 1979 using a hard place and 3rd gear! This one has no rear loop to trash! It has the black engine and I think ist an 81 model. Although it looks clean it would not pull the skin from a rice pudding. The owner said it woz once owned by Nigel Birkett (are you reading this?) and had been converted to 370 using an AJS piston?? I think a ty 80 has more power! It wil…

Hi everyone, happy new year! I have just taken the cylinder head off my 325 and it has a bit of side scoring to the piston, the bore looks ok. Would it be better to just put new rings on it or rebore it? If it had had a rebore previous would there be any markings on the piston? as there is nothing showing? Inside the piston it just says "S made in japan" and "ART" and what looks like a Y with a line over it (I thought this was a + at first) under that there is a number 1. The engine ran well with a bit of smoke before I took it apart. If it needs a rebore what pistons are avaiable. Thanks

After looking around for a few weeks and seen the twin shock bikes needing restoration generally go for too much money I've decided to buy a pretty immaculate 250 Beamish. I "DO" intend to use rather than look at it. Is there an "authority" on these that anyone knows of that could check out some minor details for me that I "think" are non standard? I know the tail pipe is non standard but "sensible". But the rest of it I think is pretty pukka. I think its mainly decals that are a bit "iffy" (I think I have a source for these) and I thought it should have fork gaiters. A couple of small areas on the swingarm are getting thin on the chrome and showing the underlying N…

Hi im looking for some air caps for a 79/80 Beamish 250 As you can see from the pictures, a monkey has been at mine. One has been drilled and rethreaded with a different valve. they dont leak, but i want to get them looking the same. cheers

This was posted on our local MOTA website. Located in a suburb of Detroit. Seems like a pretty neat little machine. A bit of a unicorn here in the states. http://detroit.ebayclassifieds.com/motorcycles-scooters/whitmore-lake/1971-very-rare-alta-suzuki-trials-bike-175cc/?ad=34610599 --Biff

Hi all, well I took the plunge and now own a 1974 RL250. So I have a few questions that the forum may be able to help with. First I have ridden and raced almost everything since 1967. I can wrench and I'm not afraid to fab up goddies when needed. So questions 1. I have an absolutely shot petcock so unless it's an only option I don't want to rebuild it. Pingle makes a good one, but not sure they make one that fits, so sources would be great. 2. The inside of the tank is lined (well sort of lined if you mean some really nasty crap peeling off everywhere) so what are my options. Tank? How to remove the old liner mess, or send off for repairs? I'm just getting into …

Just wondering as i never actually seem to see any Suzuki's especially Beamish Suzuki's being used. Theyre pretty but i assume they are plentiful as you see them on flea bay regularly so why dont you see them in trials? Is it simply because they arent much cop?

What's the best oil for a 250 beamish? Is ATF ok?

250 Beamish needs re boring, do I stay at 250 or remove the insert liner and go back to the original manufactured size of 325. If so what else is needed to be done. What difference will be felt if I switch to the 325? Anybody got any other tips to make a Beamish as competitive as possible?

Could somebody confirm something for me please. A chap told me something about a Beamish 250cc barrel having a sleeve that could be pushed out to enable it to take a 325cc piston. The way I understood it was the sleeve came out and the bigger piston went in, not a re sleeve as in you need to take a smaller sleeve completely out and fit a larger one. Cheers for any replies.

I've read quite a bit about the poor front brake on these bikes... mine is the same. Has anyone successfully modified theirs.... lengthened the hub cam brake lever maybe? Does anyone know if the front brake & hub from another bike would fit? Regards, MG

A mate is trying to sort out a Beamish 325 which when cold does not have a spark but when the cdi box has been left in the warm for a while has a decent spark and runs well. Take the cdi off put it outside until cold and no spark again.(he is a m/c mechanic so knows his onions) Has anyone here had a similar problem or a cure or a part number or idea of a replacement for the cdi box ??? Thanks in advance.

Anybody have any advise. The Beamish Club manual section says there is a mistake on Parts List 5, circlip 36 should go between 38 and 39. But part 36 looks like it is a spring clip that fits in a location in the shaft to stop 35 gear from moving side ways on the shaft. The gearbox that I have has part 38 between 35 and 36, anybody know which is right? Any advise welcome. Mike

Anyone know where i can get the air filter for a Beamish 250 or some filter foam

Looking for an inlet manifold, silencer, and air filter, however was thinking of getting a diy kit to make one. Any help much appreciated. Oh yeah its an rl250 black engine 1980

In need of a new Coil. the old one as broke were the HT lead goes in and being a captive lead its new coil time. I have found these more modern type where I can replace the HT lead if needed, but not sure on where the wires go on them? anyone know cheers