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It was made to a tight tolerance and had to be drifted in, if you had some that were n't so tight maybe loctite would do ??
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There isn't one that fits straight in, I had some sleeves made to take a std off the shelf bearing set. Without stripping I can't advise. If you use a decent bearing supplier they should sort out the nearest to your head stock and yoke stem size. The sleeves sit in the headstock the bearings drop in.
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Having read Charlies thread on his site re the gearbox conversion and Woodys comments I will stick with std box.
Couple of questions, are the gear ratios in the early and late engines the same? also what piston will be best for a soft engine ? Std or B25 ??
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We use them at work, they get hammered, (Vivaros) seem good vans. Apparently the Renault has a car gearbox so not as good. LWB drives better on a run than swb.
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It's welded to the frame.
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Thanks Charlie, looks like I'll stick with std gear box, gear down on primary and sort sprockets.
Not worth messing with if std box can be used as Woody said. I can keep the WD cluster in stock
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After reading what Woody and Charlie have said it looks to be a pain to use the wd box and for my ability the std box will be fine. Thanks for the info.
Charlie, I was looking at your site this morning and noticed the engine build article.
Is the piston used different to the std road type ??
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I have the book, not had a chance to study it yet.
Apparently the WD box fits with machining, ( BMCA have done it ??)
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Thanks so does gearing down just on primary do the job if the WD box won't fit? ( using std road box?)
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I have a distributor BSA C15 engine I intend to build for trials, I have a WD low ratio box, I want to keep it 250cc, also intend to keep the bush bearing having a new phosphor bronze one made to suit. Having removed the top end all looks good so far, not run for a while but sound. PVL or Electrex ignition will be used.
Has anyone any more tips for a soft 250cc build??
Thanks in advance...
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There were some low 2nd and high 4th gears produced, unfortunately the supplier was taken ill.
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Hopefully someone will take it on, maybe losing the BMW agency was the start of it. A lot of bike shops have gone in recent times.
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Bushes and spindle may need to be made up, if you can get dimensions it shouldn't be expensive, Mud guards crop up on ebay but you may as well use pattern parts again on ebay, exhausts are not available, but Wes can be adapted, there is someone making a pipe for Seeley yet again they sometimes list on ebay,. If you struggle with the spindle and bushes and get dimensions pm me I may be able to point you to someone to sort them.
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Sammy Miller products do them.
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Check your statement see if you paid the money out. It doesn't matter which club you join, any ACU club in your area will do. I think you can join one in any area, it doesn't matter any more.
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Amals can be a lottery, even the good ones don't last long. I used an OKO on a Fantic, it was excellent probably the best bet, if Woodys using one he knows his onions, I am sure he will help with info you need.
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You would be best giving a wide berth , get a tatty ty175 instead.
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Good to hear you enjoyed it. Always good to see new folk taking part.
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If you are using a replica frame it can be done easily . I won't spell it out, just as mentioned above you can not transfer the number to another vehicle. How do folk think other reps get reg'd like Armacs Draytons etc.
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Some contacts on the Yorks classic trials website in the classified section. In your neck of the woods .
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That was then, things have moved on. Otters,Fabers, Mills, etc etc . Not a wind up Charlie. Hows the trick Bantam coming on ??
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What I was thinking.......
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Any updates on this or any one else going through the process ????
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I had same problem after bike had been stood, take carb off, strip choke and clean and lube well with wd 40.. check cable and oil that with cable oiler .Make sure routing is as it should be.
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