Suzuki/Beamish

Has anyone got a spacer for the non brake side for front wheel or can anyone make one from dimensions of their own, I have either lost mine or didn't realise I had not received it when I bought the suzuki front end. Also has anyone machined off the normal handlebar (i.e. tiller type position) and put clamps on in a more modern position ?

I've just acquired a solid rl250 and have begun disassembly for painting. Other than the flywheel weight that many suggest, are there any other mods that would improve the performance of this bike? I read somewhere that cutting the steering head and tucking in the front end 3-4 degrees would help the turning capabilities. Thoughts? Thank, Herman

In need of a new Coil. the old one as broke were the HT lead goes in and being a captive lead its new coil time. I have found these more modern type where I can replace the HT lead if needed, but not sure on where the wires go on them? anyone know cheers

Wow, hate to admit to this but I really need some help. I disassembled my RL back in the fall and made ready for seal / bearing replacements. All went as well as expected and I have the center cases back together. As I waited so long to complete, I took my time reassembling the clutch side outer case items. The small arm with the wheel - I think is called a shift drum follower? It has a tiny spring that anchors to the little stub at the 8 o'clock position of the shift drum. The bolt is a banjo type. Anyway, I simply cannot figure out how it attaches. I've looked at it as well as the schematic from the Beamish site and maybe it's my old age but I'm stuck. Anyon…

I have been offered another bike which if I bought it would mean the Beamish has to go first. What sort of price do you think I can get for it? Here's the spec- 1978 Beamish Suzuki 250. Rare Red/Black model. New Paintwork/Lacquer to Fuel Tank New Chain/Sprockets New Levers New Decals all round New Michelin Tyres Fully serviced with new plug, lead, plug cap and oils Repaired kick start lever New front fork gaiters (still to fit) Previous owner did- New seat cover New Wheel Bearings New WES alloy silencer All stainless fasteners Polished Forks, Yokes etc New head bearings New Swing arm bushes New White Stihl Mudguards New Betor rear shocks To go with …

hello, can anyone advise me where to get a con rod kit for a silver engine RL250 beamish . have tried one suzuki dealer with no luck, and four other suppliers of pattern parts. two of the suppliers had con rods but both turned out to be the wrong part when delivered (very annoying!) somewhere in the south east of england would be best so i can drive there and see if the part is correct before i pay .(and can avoid the messing about involved in returning parts) alternatively would any body know if the TS250 or TM250 from the early 1970`s (or any other models) use the same con rod ? this would give me another option to try when looking thanks in advance for any help…

I read somewhere that someone produced some larger serrated footpegs for the RL250/325 Beamish......Does anyone know where I can find some please? The O/E ones are small and very slippery, as my bruised leg will testify

I need some new shocks for my Suzuki beamish, what length should they be? Also what are the best make to buy (around

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Hello , I have a Beamish 250 {silver engine, aprox. 1976} .The Front forks are too soft , {a lot of sag & bottom out easy}. I am 82kg so may be bit heavier than average but i still dont think they are correct The fork springs are full length with no spacer under the cap , I have seen a parts book for a RL250 which shows a shorter spring with a spacer about 100-125mm long at the top under the cap. Does anybody know the correct lengths for the spring and spacer so that i can try and find the correct parts ? Alternatively could anybody recommend differant springs to use or a supplier to ask ? thanks dave

evening guys ive been busy with other road bikes for a while but have just picked up a late 76 early 77 beamish... i have no spark generator is kicking out voltage. so i figure cdi unit is U S or coil pack does anyone know any coil test readings but im leaning towards cdi unit....so... does anyone have any links to tests/repairs for them..? sorry for any typos im using a tiny phone at the moment

I was looking for some help please.... Im rebuilding a 1981 Black engine 250 Beamish Suzuki and would like to know what size rear shocks ( how long in cm or inches please ) are been fitted to your bikes and which spark plugs seem to work best ? Thanks for any feed back.

Hi everyone I'm new to the site and I just rescued a 1974 RL 250 from a old motorcycle wrecking yard here in Washington state. A little back story the very first dirt bike I bought from a dealer ship was a 1974 RL 250 Exacta that the owner of the Suzuki dealership turned it into a enduro for enduro racing the things he changed were the Tank to a TM tank and put a TM seat on it and he also Put Knobby tires instead of the trials tires. It was a great bike i could do anything and go anywhere on that bike I will try to up load some photos of my old RL 250. anyway back to the wrecking yard rescue I happened into this wrecking yard looking for parts for my buddy that is buil…

My dad got him self a really nice red and black 250 Beamish Suzuki and he let me have a go i was a Bultaco boy so was a bit like forget it but he said its real easy to ride, it just floated around in a nice way and was really easy to ride, for me the bultaco felt more planted you felt the ground more you new what you were riding over, but the beamish just floated up the stream like it was no big deal it was completely different to ride i liked them both

I have been unable to find the torque numbers for the cylinder base nuts or the mag flywheel nut in any of the manuals I have. Anyone have these at hand? thanks in advance

A mate is trying to sort out a Beamish 325 which when cold does not have a spark but when the cdi box has been left in the warm for a while has a decent spark and runs well. Take the cdi off put it outside until cold and no spark again.(he is a m/c mechanic so knows his onions) Has anyone here had a similar problem or a cure or a part number or idea of a replacement for the cdi box ??? Thanks in advance.

Changed my RL250 which was using 40:1 mix to an RL325 which has had rebore, new piston and rings. Should I use same mix running engine in?

A friend has offered to show me his RL325 that's been sat some time. It was working when parked. Now apparently the gears won't select. He says it kicks over fine, but is stuck in neutral. Could it be anything more sinister than just sticky gummed up gears from years of sitting? Any other things to consider when looking at it? I see the chap from the owners club is a member on here.

hi all whats the spares availability for 325's, i'm not after anything specific at the mo, but i'm trying to get hold of one at the moment. thanks Ben

250 Beamish needs re boring, do I stay at 250 or remove the insert liner and go back to the original manufactured size of 325. If so what else is needed to be done. What difference will be felt if I switch to the 325? Anybody got any other tips to make a Beamish as competitive as possible?