lineaway

You have to have free play in the lever. You can grind a little off the push pin to bring the lever closer to the bar, but still have enough play.

First off move the condenser to under the tank by the ignition coil. Sounds like a grounding problem. So does the bike still have lights? It would be much easier if not.

If it runs it`s not a mess. The `new` company made the owner of the only site that had a diagram remove it. Good luck.

Ha! I quit trying to out ride my kid! I still stretch fine, as I was more limber than my fat ass revealed. I enjoy a Vintage trials as much as a Modern event. I dropped down a class to make Monday much easier. My fanny pack now has beer instead of parts! I still enjoy every ride as much as I did as a teenager!

It never happened. Try a 2008 beta or a 2008 sherco.

Usually the hardest thing is to break the bead. Second hardest thing is to pop the bead. Use plenty of lube and best to air the tire in a safe place away from you! PS. Let the tire sit spread in the heat using a tube or blocks for a day.

Put more bikes in the back, nothing to do with tires.

That`s right, just keep riding the old one till the frame breaks. The new ones are much better. (But then again it`s been 11 plus years!)

Call trialspartsusa.com. That is your best bet.

That`s great advice Dan, but it depends on the condition of fluid. I would drain it all if you are having problems. Contaminated fluid has no business in a rebuild. But I do agree refilling the caliper first.

http://www.redrubbergrease.com/tips-how-to-brake-caliper-failure-repair-with-rebuild-kit.html

Red rubber grease for assembly.

I would check the intake boot as they tear easily.

Myself I would rather see clean oil, than the dreaded other. It`s more of a time thing as the quantity is so small.

Your member id shows a 2001. The pro came out in `02. The video for the pro seal change got removed from the web. Even the parts diagram shows the spring side to the impellor. Good luck.

If you are just riding AHRMA the bike should already be good to go. The NATC vintage class or ITSA vintage trials is a whole animal of another color. For riding modern events it needs to be geared down considerably. Good brakes and suspension is worth way more than frame mods.

Most work like this is easily done with air tools. You might put the fork back together and on the bike. Compress the forks with tie downs and then try with the tools at hand.

Did you put the seal in backwards? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbiaqCHPKoU

That`s funny as K&N actually made a filter for the reflex. The xr 100 will also fit. To get real air flow cut the top of the air box using a current filter. Say, a Sherco filter off a 2008. Not running an air box is just silly on a trials bike. Fair weathered riding?

You need to make an air box. Using just an air filter has never been a good practice on any bike used off road. You could always use the stock box, and custom make a filter for the top of the box to get more air flow than stock.

All frames break when ridden hard. The 4Rt, Gassers, Sherco`s and Beta has had it`s share too. Too early to tell on the new comers.

If you do a search for cracked cases you will see this has happened several times before. Seems the cracked cases were usually the magnesium ones.

That is not the problem. You need to pull the motor and see if the center cases are broke.

Shocks are not as hard as people think. With that being a remote reservoir, I think it had a Schrader valve. Which makes it quite easy to release pressure and charge once you are done. Get help to take it apart. If the seal head is in reasonable good shape, all you will need is two seals and several o rings. These parts can be ordered through any hydraulic shop. Just might take a week or two. This way is much cheaper than sourcing the parts through a `kit`. Probably under 20 bucks. I did my Ohlins this way over a year ago. Good Luck!